Charleston Restaurant Week Middleton Place Restaurant--3 for $50 Well Worth It

It was a January evening at Middleton Place. Upon passing the softly lit entrance gate off of pitch black 61, in the far distance, you could see the brightly lighted North Flanker. It was about all you could see at this point in the darkness of the sunless landscape until the peering lights of your vehicle discreetly fell upon the branches of the tall oaks lining the drive leading up to the parking. Upon exiting your vehicle, the trailing smoke of the flaming wick lamps showed the way to the welcoming lights of Middleton's restaurant. The occasion, Restaurant Week, and Middleton Place Restaurant was featuring a 3 for $50 menu.

We did not have a reservation, so our choices were to either wait an hour and a half for an 8 pm seating or take a seat in the intimate bar area. We obviously chose the later option, which turned out to be a pleasant surprise. The large open room was warmed by an inviting, crackling fire, and we took a seat well positioned to take advantage of this welcoming amenity. Patron's leaving would make a final stop to warm themselves by the fire. One patron mentioning how cold it was sitting by the big windows of Middleton's elegant dining room. Also, the only thing you could hear over your conversation was the popping of the blazing wood, unlike the loud chatter of the main seating area. Check the box of another unexpected plus.

Our friendly server, who was also the bartender, promptly placed the restaurant's large menus on the table with two glasses of water, a full set of silverware for whatever, and two small plates for bread. First consideration was obviously our choice of opening drinks. My friend perused the extensive wine menu and I had already predetermined my choice, a Manhattan. Our server asked me my choice of Bourbon, and I said Knob Creek. My Manhattan was made just the way I like it, with a substantial kick, assuring me I got my moneys worth.

Our server stated the specials for the night, but we were there to partake of the 3 for $50 menu, which offered you a choice between two first courses, three second courses, and two third courses. For the first course, my friend and I chose the She Crab Soup made with lump crab and Sherry. For the second course, I chose the Chicken Perloo with the locally, famous Carolina gold rice, Andouille, bacon, caramelized apple, and fried parsley. My friend picked the Braised Lamb Shank with Carolina gold rice, Middlins risotto, roasted carrots, and red wine lamb reduction--sauce. The third course we both chose Apple Crumble with vanilla ice cream.

The bread was brought to the table and not long after the She Crab soup. We drank our drinks, buttered our bread, and conversed while we waited for the main course. The She Crab Soup was superb--a pleasant touch of Sherry and just the right flavor of crab, not overwhelming.

The main course arrived sizzling hot. Like the She Crab Soup, the different flavors in the rice dish was very balanced. The sausage and bacon did not dominate the hint of apple flavor and the texture of the rice had a soft crunch--enjoyable. The juicy chicken topped the rice and pulled apart easily. It was a satisfying portion for an entree. As to the Braised Lamb Shank, it was a first for my friend and she said she is now a fan of lamb. Finally, the Apple Crumble with vanilla ice cream was just that. When I think back on it, I should have tried the Southern Pecan Pie with caramel and whipped cream.

I give high marks to our server and bartender, Lucy. She was attentive, conversational, and humorous. Finished plates were cleared, so the table was never cluttered, and water topped off. She made drink inquiries as needed. She also had the added task of keeping the fire cozy, which she handled diligently.

Middleton Place Restaurant is elegant and historical. A good choice for Charleston Restaurant Week. For a table in the main dining room, be sure to make a reservation. However, the bar area is a pleasant surprise on a cold, January evening.

Middleton Place Restaurant

4300 Ashley River Road, Charleston, SC

Charleston's Only Below-Street-Level Bar--Truly a Hidden Gem

Charleston has numerous rooftop bars located throughout its downtown area with beautiful sweeping views of its surrounding historic ambience, but it has only one bar with the unusual and alluring distinction of being below-street-level. Large numbers of pedestrians stream past its street level entrance everyday because it is located at one of the busiest intersections in the French Quarter during tour hours. Its address is the 18th century Italian Renaissance building at 1 Broad Street. The name of the speakeasy-style cocktail space is Bar Vaute'.

The original two story building on Lot 13 of the "Grand Modell" of Charleston at various times housed a watchmaker, grocer, druggist, bookbinder and stationer before becoming a bank. In 1852, the State Bank of South Carolina purchased three two story brick buildings at the corner of Broad and East Bay streets, demolished them, and in 1853 built the Italian Renaissance building of One Broad Street and the adjacent building, 3 Broad Street. The brownstone building was designed by Charleston's most notable antebellum architectural firm of Edward C. Jones and Francis D. Lee. 

The 1853 building's first floor housed the bank, the second floor was constructed for the Mercantile Library of Charleston, and the third floor had private office space. Being on higher ground, its unusual below street-level rooms, used for additional office space, featured 11-foot ceilings, fire places, and ample light provided by windows with handsome grillwork that opened to a window well with grating installed to protect pedestrians.

As decades went by, numerous banks of different names traded ownership and did business on the first floor while the upper floors were used by varying entities. It was damaged by the Civil War bombardments, the Charleston earthquake, and the tornadoes of September 29, 1938. It went through several renovations and restorations. In 2006, plans were made to convert it to luxury condominiums. The conversion plan was abandoned, and the building laid vacant until 2015. The space was adapted for mixed use with retail on the first, office on the second and an apartment on the third floor. Finally, One Broad Street Restaurant and the basement Bakers Bar closed due to the Covid pandemic and French restaurant, Brasserie La Banque, opened on July 2, 2021 with its clandestine speakeasy-style cocktail space, Bar Vaute'.

It is an understatement to say the bar is hidden. Standing on the corner of E. Bay and Broad Street, no sign marks Bar Vaute's entry point. You can proceed to the bar from the building's French restaurant, but the double-door entrance on E. Bay Street gives you direct access, where you descend a stair to the lower level. Once you have made your way to the bottom, its entry remains puzzling. As you look around, you will spot a double, gold curtain beyond the stair in a back corner-- quite unpretentious.

Bar Vaute' is a dimly lit, intimate space wrapped around a well-stocked bar surrounded by wood-trimmed pillars inset with glass. Along its aged brick walls are small tables set for two, each with a candle and menus. I counted enough seating for about 28 patrons.

Bar Vaute' features a simple menu with a meat and cheese board, five or six dishes, and two or three desserts. Executive Chef Jeb Aldrich described it this way, "That menu will be a little more playful and give the cooks a chance to be creative and have fun with the ingredients." I was there for an early evening drink, so the only thing I ordered from the menu was the house-made Brioche with whipped butter for $7.

The drink menu offered seven cocktails, three French classics, two spirit free drinks with an option to add spirits, and of course wine selections. I was looking for a Manhattan style drink, so I consulted the bartender for a suggestion, which turned out to be Wanna Find, Peace of Mind(Elijah Craig Rye Whiskey, Brandy, Carfano Antica, and Bitters) for $15. It was smooth and satisfying.

The bar's one bartender was accommodating and friendly. The one server was quite busy tending to the filled tables. The Brioche was a little slow in arriving, but I was not in a hurry. She was diligent in keeping my water glass filled and checked in several times. By the time I was ready to check out, the bar was packed. That was around 6:10 pm.

The location of Bar Vaute', 1 Broad Street, has a long and illustrious history. My interest in the bar was peaked by an article about hidden speakeasy-style cocktail spaces in Charleston. Judging from my visit to Bar Vaute', when using the word "hidden" in its description, it truly fits the billing more than its counterparts. Add to that, it has the unusual and alluring distinction of being Charleston's only below-street-level bar. If you are looking for a dimly lit, intimate place for a palate-pleasing drink and one-on-one conversation, check it out for yourself.

Monday through Thursday 4 pm-11 pm

Friday and Saturday 4 pm-12 am

ASPERO HOUR, Monday through Wednesday 4 pm-6 pm

1 Broad Street Floor B, Charleston, SC

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Charleston's Oldest Commercial Building and the Nation's Longest Operating Liquor Store

On an early trip to Charleston many years ago, I stood on East Bay Street framing the colorful Georgian houses of Rainbow Row in the viewfinder of my camera. On the same corner, a young woman was making preparations to immortalize the pastel scene on canvas. Unknown to me at the time, the two of us were engaging in a popular tradition common to many of the city's locals and tourists. This well-known historic landmark of the French Quarter is for obvious reasons the most photographed and painted of the Holy City.

However, in the midst of this most recognizable attraction unassumingly sits the oldest commercial building in the Holy City with the added distinction of being the nation's longest-operating liquor store. Located just two blocks from the old city's bustling waterfront, this part of the original walled city of the late 1600's was anything but holy. It was the rompin', stompin' playground for pirates and den of iniquity for seafarer's. Members of Blackbeard's crew, not Blackbeard himself, more than likely prowled and drank liquor from this establishment along with Stede Bonnet and a host of other pirates, many of whom were hung a short distance away in White Point Gardens.

The Tavern at Rainbow Row dates as far back as 1686 according to discovered documents and maps found in Scotland and the Netherlands. Quite possibly Captain William Carse and crew of the Magdalen from Edinborough purchased liquor from the establishment in August of 1743 after unloading its cargo of salt, sailcloth, and, among other items, 96 golf clubs and 432 golf balls consigned to David Deas, a Scottish emigrant who had become a successful Charleston merchant.

Through its three centuries of business, The Tavern has endured the test of unstoppable and sometimes hard-pressed time. It survived the Revolutionary War and the incessant pummeling from the Federal cannons of the Civil War, not to leave unmentioned the numerous historic fires and catastrophic earthquake of 1886 that brought down hundreds of Charleston's buildings.

It has been known by more than a few names such as The Tavern on the Bluff's, Harris's Tavern, and Mrs. Coates Tavern by the Bay. In 1903, it became a "Whiskey Store" during an era when it was illegal to buy a drink, even if it was served in a teacup. Fronting as a barber shop through Prohibition, it sold liquor from a backroom. A latch door in the back of the shop led to an underground tunnel that once moved moonshine to speakeasies—then called "blind tigers."

The Blind Tiger Pub building on Broad Street has such an underground tunnel, which also can be entered through a latched door at the back of the building. Those wanting a drink would have to sneak one in one of the tunnel's many dark nooks. Whether the two tunnels connected is open to question. At this time, I must insert a bit of caution because like many stories from Charleston's past, you must measure its factuality with a grain of Carolina Gold. Following Repeal, The Tavern returned to legal status. It has been the nation's oldest Spirits store in continuous operation. Now that bit of information is as bona fide as its Bluffton Whiskey.

The original building is split into three different addresses. Due to law, spirits must be sold separately from wine and beer. The middle section, which sells wine and beer, is the most fascinating of the three. Its brick, front exterior has an arched double-door flanked by two arched windows, and directly above, a double-window second floor extension all painted in dark green. Inside, the current owners have preserved the shop's legacy by restoring its interior featuring its original hardwood flooring and brick walls with antique furnishings from around the world--a bookshelf from the Library of Congress and an artisan's working table from France. In one of the adjoining rooms is the mysterious latched-door leading to the underground. The third section of the building is unused--at one-time a gallery. Future plans are to open up the wall where the beer taps are presently and turn the unused section into a drinking space with a garden patio outside.

The Tavern specializes in local or rare spirits, like a five-grain bourbon made with a Carolina rice variety(Seashore Black Rye) once written off as extinct, and Carolina Gold; a black tea liqueur made from the only large-scale tea plantation in the U.S.(Charleston Tea Plantation); and a vodka made from a rye grain grown on South Carolina's Edisto Island. To acquaint you with the unfamiliar, the shop also offers weekly tastings.

The Tavern has been featured on Southern Charm, Moonshiners, History’s Most Haunted, and Atlas Obscura. With a multifaceted history and a singular focus, The Tavern at Rainbow Row stayed true to its reason for being and never stopped distributing booze. Now that makes for one happy sailor.

Unused space--future drinking space

Entrance to garden patio

 

Future garden patio

120 East Bay Street, Charleston, SC

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Five Points in Summerville--A Once Upon a Time Relic Explained or Unexplained

Summerville is growing, and as a result, is changing. However, Summerville has not forgotten its past. Its past is interwoven into what it is becoming today, and what it will be in the future. It celebrates the stories that have already been written through its projects, murals, arts, statues, books, magazines, festivals, and tours. Rich, entertaining stories explained and unexplained. The following unusual story, though not as well known and significant as the Pine Forest Inn, or the Railroad Station, or White Gables, you just might find compelling.

In Summerville, there is an area where three roads converge unto South Main Street to make a single intersection of five points. The roads are W. Carolina Ave, E. Carolina Ave, and Tupper Lane. I have driven through this intersection many times. Once upon a time a strange, potted ornament occupied a space at the point where W. Carolina Ave and Tupper Lane come together.

It was always just a brief curiosity because I never made any real effort to find out what the strange looking tree-like structure with blue bottles stuck on its branches was. Only by accident, I stumbled upon the answer. I was researching ghost stories in the Summerville area. Not surprising, it's called a blue bottle tree and quite common throughout the South. Perhaps, you remember seeing it as you navigated this highly traveled crossroads. I say remember because like many notable Summerville landmarks, it is no longer there.

What purpose did it serve? Was it meant to be just a decorative object to amuse passersby? Did its presence have a darker, deeper meaning for the individual or individuals who placed it there? After all, the blue bottle tree bears a cultural significance to some Lowcountry residents of times past.

Today, the blue bottle tree is mainly nothing more than a decoration people put in their gardens and on their lawns, but in history, the blue bottle tree is steeped in superstitions brought here by African slaves, although I should add, superstition to some, to others, deep rooted beliefs.

The color blue was believed to ward off spirits, more specifically, the evil kind. The blue bottles on the bottle tree are thought to entice the evil spirits into climbing inside during the evening hours where they become trapped. Then, the morning sun comes up and the sunlight kills the spirits. Quite an ingenious idea, if you believe in such things. Also, a nifty way of making good use of empty wine bottles, if you like the idea of a blue bottle tree in your yard.

Summerville's Five Points has a history. According to one study, a dark history. It is a well-known high-accident intersection. Between the years of 2015 to 2017, there were 60 crashes. Nine resulted in 13 persons injured and 51 resulted in property damage. Fortunately, there were no fatalities. To be noted, these statistics only covered a three year period. I took the picture of the blue bottle tree in 2015. So, when that study was done, it was already there. Yet, could this be the reason the blue bottle tree was placed at this crossroads in the first place, or was there something else more insidious going on with the properties around Five Points. Just down the road are the lion-topped brick pillars of 1006 South Main Street where the ghost of Mary Margaret resides.

Proposed roundabout

There are plans in the making to address the traffic problem at Five Points. One of them involves constructing a two-lane roundabout, which would not include Tupper Lane--it would be turned into a cul-de-sac. Thus, Five Points will fade away into history like the blue bottle tree that once graced the area to become just another footnote in Summerville's illustrious history like the Summerville Light.

I know there is someone out there in Summerville who knows the true reason why the blue bottle tree was placed there, when it was placed there, and who removed it. If not, it will become one of Summerville's Unexplained.

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An Unforgettable Walk on the Beach of Sullivan's Island

Possibly, you have heard this story. The year was 2005. Its place of happening was fittingly Sullivan's Island. The teller is a young lady who was vacationing with her family. One morning she was strolling the beach picking up seashells. While examining one particular shell, she noticed a fully clothed gentleman standing and watching the ocean waves break on the shore.

When she looked up again from her seashell, she noticed the oddly dressed man had moved closer. She looked back down at the seashell to avoid an awkward encounter, but that's when the man spoke to her and asked if she wanted to know more about the shell she was holding. Despite feeling unnerved, she timidly looked up. He had long dark hair and very dark eyes. The man continued speaking. His soft-spoken voice put her at ease. Her apprehension faded away into a disarming and peaceful presence. He explained the seashell in great length, from its pink color and smooth interior to rough exterior, and she was impressed by the vast knowledge the gentleman possessed.

She bent down to pick up another shell and inquire about it, but the gentleman had vanished. The only logical explanation for his sudden disappearance was he had ventured back over the dunes. She picked up her newly collected treasures and headed back down the beach to her vacation home.

Later that evening, her and her family were out to eat at a local restaurant when a painting on the wall over its fireplace caught her attention. The dark image of a man looked eerily familiar, and so she walked over to get a closer look. Without a doubt, it was the man she spoke to earlier on the beach. She immediately flagged down a server and asked her if she knew the name of the man in the artwork. The server looked at her, puzzled, and said, "Oh yes dear, that's Edgar Allan Poe." At least, that is the way the story is told. Questionably, it is difficult to imagine someone would not recognize one of the most prominent faces in literature, but I acquiesce to the thought it could be possible.

The name of the local restaurant in the story is appropriately Poe's Tavern. On any given day throughout the tourist season, it is packed from opening to closing. It seems everyone wants to get a taste of it.

One writer described Poe's Tavern this way, "Eclectically decorated with different quotes from Poe’s work and several portraits of Poe by various artists, it is a quirky stop for passersby to grab a bite to eat, meet some locals, and experience a little history—even if it is beefed up a bit." Ironically, the writer's usage of the term "beefed up", though unintentional, is fitting in more ways than one. It is well known for its sumptuous burgers.

Most everything on the menu has an Edgar Allan Poe theme, from his name to the titles of his acclaimed works. I chose the Beef Gold Bug the day of my visit. The Gold-Bug was a famous story he wrote that takes place on Sullivan's Island. The burger was tasty and done to my preference. However, the highlight of my meal was the Dill Pickle Soup, of which I will describe with one word, WOW.

There are more than several portraits of Edgar. The walls are lined with everything Poe, but the eye catcher is the portrait above the fireplace. If you dare, walk up to it and look into his darkened eyes. However, I warn you, do not stare to long, you just might get sucked into his twisted, haunted world of macabre.

2210 Middle St., Sullivan s Island, SC

Poe submitted his short story called The Gold-Bug in 1843 as an entry to a writing contest sponsored by a Philadelphia newspaper called The Dollar. His story won the grand prize of $100 and was published in three installments. The writing was the most popular and widely read of Poe's works.

Montreux Bar and Grill Sweet Tea Cocktail Entry and a Bit of a Ghost Story

The drink pictured here is the offering by Montreux Bar and Grill for the Hold My Tea Bar Crawl Sweet Tea Cocktail Contest now under way and running to September 23. As a suggestion, when there for a visit during the Sweet Tea Festival all this week, keep an eye on your car keys. If Mischievous Monty thinks you had a bit too much to drink, he will steal your keys from you. And, if they should come up missing, don't take offense, he is doing it for your own good.

In case you didn't know, Mischievous Monty is the patron ghost story at the longtime local favorite Montreux Bar and Grill. The mischievous phantom is an unknown individual, who decided to make the building his permanent home. He has a mischievous reputation dating back many years.

The drink is called Lowcountry Royal-Tea by Leah Pippin. It is a recipe of 1.5 oz Nippitaty Gin, 5 oz Simple Syrup, 3 Lemon Slices, 4 Mint Leaves, and 3 oz Unsweet Tea.

The building was originally constructed circa 1862. It has housed generations of businesses during that time. It has even been said it was once part of Summerville's "red-light district." At that time, it was a boardinghouse and restaurant known as Miss Lucia's. Other businesses once located at this address include a dry goods store owned by Chalmers Waring (now that is a recognizable Summerville name), a store called Summerville Hardware belonging to Gene Hutson, a NAPA Auto Parts, and McGuire's Irish Pub.

When it was a NAPA Auto Parts store, on many occasions, it was said parts would be set aside for customers, and then when they would arrive to pick them up, the part would no longer be where it was placed. Employees claimed to hear footsteps where no one was walking. There would be sounds of things being dragged around in locations no one had access to.

When Montreux first opened, employees working in the grill section would clean the kitchen every night, only to return the next morning to find pots and pans moved around or rearranged. A bartender reported seeing a framed record album launching itself over glasses and bottles from the shelf it had been sitting on striking the bar and ricocheting back into the ice maker.

The general manager recounted one night while alone in the bar and locking up someone shouted in his ear. Another night, he witnessed a plastic caddy sitting on the bar taking off into the air on its own. Upon viewing the surveillance camera footage, he described what looked like a mist descended down onto the caddy in a rapid swooping motion and struck it.

Of course, these are all stories told by witnesses through the years who can offer no reasonable explanation for what they experienced in the building now called the Montreux Bar and Grill. Quite ironic, even the  bar's name is tied to the infamous "Smoke on the Water," a Deep Purple song commemorating the burning of the Montreux Casino on Lake Geneva in Switzerland.

Enjoy the festivities and Montreux's sweet tea cocktail entry for the sweetest week in Summerville, and just maybe, Mischievous Monty will pay a visit to your table or seat at the bar looking for your keys if you had a bit too much to drink, or gently whisper something into your ear, like, be a nice patron and leave a good tip, or else. Have fun and don't forget to cast your vote and get your free tee-shirt.

.127 W Richardson Ave., Summerville, SC

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You can read the full story about Monty in Bruce Orr's book Haunted Summerville, South Carolina.