San Francisco was the number one destination with Conde Nash readers for many years, Charleston was number two. Then, there was a reversal in sentiment and Charleston took over the number one spot. It has remained the top favorite for years. I travel to San Francisco often. The views are stunning from almost any vantage point along the peninsula coast line and north to the Marin Headlands. There are a plethora of points of interests to enjoy both in and around the city traveling in all directions going across the magnificent Golden Gate Bridge, the busy Bay Bridge, and south along the beautiful Bay Area peninsula. This day, I headed to the Filoli Estate and Gardens in Woodside, but first stop was Half Moon Bay.
Half Moon Bay, the name itself is as inviting as it sounds. It is home to the pumpkin festival and the Mavericks. No, it has nothing to do with Top Gun or Tom Cruise. It is the name of the big waves that roll in from the Pacific to challenge the best of the surfing world. The town is very quaint with a Main Street lined with shops and eateries from its beginning to its end, and that is about everything. One huge wall is dedicated to the event with a huge wave and surfer painted on it. Sam’s Chowder House on the Pacific was my destination. Naked Ladies, not the fleshly kind—the pink flower kind, beautified the entrance to the quiet beach just below the restaurant.
Sam’s Chowder House was busy as usual. There is plenty of indoor seating, but outside is where you want to be for the best view. My table was just above the outdoor patio that is enclosed by glass partitions with heaters at each table. The marine mist that comes off the Pacific can have a cooling effect. For a drink, I chose a cherry mocktail($9.00), which was pleasantly refreshing. From the main courses, I selected the Fried Shrimp platter($25.95), which included a sizable portion of Old Bay fries. The shrimp were large and coated with a tasteful batter perfectly fried. The server was friendly, attentive, and informative. It was an excellent dinner experience.
Next stop, Filoli Historic House and Gardens—a sprawling estate nestled in a valley near the Crystal Spring Reservoir. The land was purchased in1914 for $89,000 by Agnes and William Bourn. The land is now worth 2.5 million. The 54,256 sq. ft. house was completed in 1917 at a cost of $425,000, now worth $11 million. It has 56 rooms, 17 fireplaces, 15 bathrooms, 14 staff bedrooms, and 10 main bedrooms. It was all paid for by gold mining money. The house is u-shaped with servant’s quarters in one wing and a ballroom in the other. The estate’s name is derived from the family’s personal motto—Fight for a just cause, Love your fellow man, Live a good life—Fi-Lo-Li.
The house was built 200 yards from the San Andreas fault line. It was constructed to withstand the California seismic upheavals with double-walled construction and a steel frame to support 17 ft ceilings. One bathroom has a 22 ft ceiling. So far, so good.
The houses spacious interior is filled with the original furnishings. A large kitchen serviced the family with smaller rooms for bread making and desserts. There was even a large safe in the main preparation area with a huge, black double oven stove. There was a room for anything and everything to keep the family and guests entertained. Music, gaming tables, billiards, TV watching, and a library for serious reading. Finally, the ballroom, to which visitors could not access due to renovations.
The gardens are extensive and magnificent with a massive variety of flower species and trees. It was a challenge to name the various flowers as you strolled the terraced sections, but having had flowered rock gardens of my own, I did exceptionally well. There was a glassed garden house facing a flowered lily pond where you could sit while conversing over afternoon tea and a building with a clock tower used as a gift shop and cafe today. For fun, there is a badminton court overlooking the gardens and a large pool surrounded by places to sun and relax. Its large open fields furnished with outdoor wooden Adirondack chairs are used for soaking in the landscape and stargazing after darkness shrouds the valley.
San Francisco, like Charleston, has beautiful beaches, lots of fascinating history, except on a larger scale, much larger. The coastline consists of sheer cliffs, massive rocks, tall mountain peaks, many long bridges, and much cooler water. The city has tall buildings and vertical streets, unlike sea level and below Charleston. It is surrounded by beautiful vistas and a plethora of points of interest to be enjoyed. Half Moon Bay and Filoli House and Gardens are two places I visited on this trip to San Francisco.
4210 CA-1
Half Moon Bay
86 Canada Road
Woodside, CA
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