National Geographic Open Explorer South Carolina Waters Expedition #4--Congaree State Park And Synchronous Fireflies

Nestled between the Congaree and Wateree Rivers is a cherished and protected piece of Palmetto State landscape consisting of 27,000 acres called the Congaree National Park. Over 20,000 acres of the floodplain park is federally designated wilderness. Thanks to the efforts of Harry Hampton and a grass-roots campaign, this tract of land survived the voracious appetite of the lumber industry that swept through the Santee River area.

Congaree National Park preserves the largest tract of old growth bottomland hardwood forest left in the United States. It has the distinction of having one of the highest temperate deciduous forest canopies remaining in the world and has been crowned the Home of the Champions, also known as the "Redwoods of the East." Boasting the tallest known specimens of 15 species, it is home to the second tallest tree in the East, a loblolly pine standing at 167 feet and the second-tallest common baldcypress reaching a height of 141 feet.

Rightly noted for its tall trees, it is also a very special place for two and a half weeks come the springtime and the natural event that occurs only happens in a few other locations around the country.

While most people will be looking to the heavens to enjoy a nightly lightshow, visitors to Congaree National Park will be looking to the underbrush of the wetlands tall tree canopy for a spectacular nightly lightshow. In the later half of May to early June every year, a special kind of firefly performs an intricate and mesmerizing serenade all for the purpose of finding a mate to ensure their species returns year after year to repeat the phenomenon. The male fireflies of this particular species synchronize their flashing to entice the females in this unusual mating dance.

There are over 125 different fireflies present in North America, and over 2,000 worldwide. I always called them lightning bugs, which is actually a little closer to the truth, designating them as a bug, because they are not flies, but are a type of beetle. There are several species in Congaree National Park, but only one of them is synchronous. It is the species called Photuris frontalis. Mature forests and wet bottomlands are their preferred habitat and the bluff near the park visitor center is their ideal hang out.

Rick Olson and I arrived a day before our team leader, Dave Eslinger. We checked into the park's accommodating Harry Hampton Visitor Center to gather some information and maps, after which we headed out to set up camp in the parks remote campground called the Bluff. It was a mile trek from the Long Leaf campsite.

On the way, we came across a section of the forest where the trees had burn marks on their bark two feet up from the ground. Every once in awhile the park management do controlled burns. There were no facilities or running water at the campsite. It's called roughing it. On the plus side, the Mosquito Meter was at mild. We tested out our survivor skills by making a fire from the hundreds of discarded pine cones and branches strewn across the pine-needled ground, cooked hamburgers, and planned out our next day's activities, which would start with a paddle on one of the park's waterways. We saw fireflies here, but it wasn't the species we came to observe. The terrain was not ideal.

After enjoying a breakfast, we headed to the kayak launch. The marked Cedar Creek Canoe Trail winds approximately 15 miles through the Congaree Wilderness and passes through a primeval old-growth forest of elms, hickories, pines, maples, oaks, common baldcypress and swamp tupelo. The paddle was relaxing and picturesque, but we did not see any of the park's resident wildlife--river otter, deer, turtles, wading birds, and the occasional visiting alligator--except for one snake and the occasional splashing fish.

After the paddle, Dave Eslinger arrived and the expedition team walked the 2.4 mile Boardwalk Loop Trail--an elevated wooden walkway. The boardwalk offered an opportunity to view the different habitats found throughout the park with descriptions and explanations provided on a self guided printed pamphlet. The first half was a low boardwalk leading to Weston Lake-an oxbow lake where we observed turtles bobbing up and down in its murky waters and a large alligator gar cruising just below its top waters. The second half was an elevated boardwalk traversing swampier terrain. Dave got some stunning photos of the wildlife encountered on the walk, which will be posted separately on the South Carolina Waters Expedition site.

After the boardwalk, the main objective of our expedition was now the focus--to view and document the firefly phenomenon. A designated Fireflies Trail was marked along the bluff line, which gave access to prime viewing areas. The fireflies began their enchanting lightshow near sunset and continued until full darkness blanketed the bluff. Adding to the mystical display, the light from the full moon showered down on the thick upper forest canopy casting a white glow along the fringes of their leaves.

South Carolina Waters Expedition 2--Four Holes Swamp, Francis Beidler Forest

South Carolina Waters Expedition 2 took the team into the interior of South Carolina to a place called Four Holes Swamp--a dark tannin-stained slow-flowing river swamp known as a blackwater swamp and a tributary to the Edisto River. Thousand-year-old trees and native wildlife abound in this pristine sanctuary. There are over 70 species of reptiles and amphibians and 140 species of birds have been reported. As a bird watching photographer, you can really spread your wings.

Located in the heart of the Lowcountry between Columbia and Charleston, Four Holes Swamp is a 45,000-acre matrix of sloughs and lakes. It contains 18,000 acres of the largest remaining stand of virgin bald cypress and tupelo gum swamp forest remaining anywhere in the world. These wetlands are also home to the dwarf trillium (Trillium pusillum)--a rare flower found only in South Carolina at Four Holes Swamp.

Within Four Holes Swamp is the 15,000 acre National Audubon Society's Francis Beidler Forest where an educational center and a 1.75 mile self-guided boardwalk trail are located. The expedition team rendezvoused at the visitor center where we linked up with Mark Musselman, the Land Manager in Four Holes Swamp. Mark accompanied us on our trek over the boardwalk to Goodson Lake. Along the way, he shared with us his extensive knowledge of the swamp and with a sharp eye, pointed out the unique features of the swamp and its camouflaged wildlife--mostly the serpentine kind.

The launching point for the team's Trident was a two story observation deck deep within the swamp. Dave Eslinger unpacked the ROV and made the necessary connections. It wasn't long before our unusual activity drew the attention of curious visitors to the swamp, one of them being an inquisitive little girl with a boat load of questions, but Dave, a very personable individual, was willing to accommodate, thus fulfilling a primary objective of the team's explorations--to raise public awareness and appreciation for South Carolina's most cherished assets, its waterways and coastal estuaries, especially with the young.

The midday temperature was in the high 50's with only a slight breeze shuffling the branches of the surrounding ancient trees. With the overhead canopy open at this time of year, the sun shined through the upper branches onto the lower vegetation and the countless fallen trees strewn about in the dark waters. Not to far away, a nine foot alligator passively soaked in what sunshine was being made available to it. The ROV was launched into the black tea colored waters and it wasn't long before we were confronted with the complexity of the underwater world of the swamp.

As the Trident cruised along under the water taking some stunning video, the ROV's tether inevitably became entangled around the numerous submerged fallen logs and branches. Unable to get the ROV to surface, the unavoidable now faced the team--someone was going get "swamped today" and enter the 50-some degree water to retrieve the entrapped ROV, and that person was our pertinacious team leader. Stripped down to his undershorts, Dave entered the stimulating 8-foot deep water and after several attempts, successfully rescued the valuable Trident.


Unlike the clear, aqua blue waters of the tropics and coral reefs of the Caribbean, South Carolina's waters offer a greater challenge to operate an ROV in. Each expedition logistically teaches us something new, preparing us for the challenges to come on future expeditions.

Highlight: If you watch the underwater video very carefully you will see the ancient predator fish called a bowfin.


South Carolina Waters
National Geographic Open Explorer
S.E.E. Initiative

Team member Rick Olson kayaking Four Holes Swamp.

South Carolina Waters Expedition--The Ashley River Baptism

Practice makes perfect was the calling of the day on the prestigious Ashley River just before it makes its entrance into Charleston's deep water harbor at White Point Gardens. It would be the maiden voyage for the expedition team's recently acquired Trident ROV into South Carolina waters. The main target of the preparatory National Geographic Open Explorer exploration into the rivers murky liquid was a casualty of a past hurricane, a solitary sunken sailboat. Launching point was Bristol Marina.

You couldn't ask for better weather for mid-January with temperatures in the sixties and considerable sunshine. We rendezvoused at Rick Olson's boat, the expedition team's home base, where we discussed objectives, strategies, and equipment. The Trident was unpacked and readied for a trial run around the marina's docks. Team leader Dave Eslinger discussed the ROV's features, controls, and video capabilities with the team members.

The Trident was then launched and we got a view of the marina's pluff mud bottom dotted by various abandoned sea shells. After the quick run, the equipment was loaded unto the Sea Hunt where team mascot, a Golden Doodle named Willow, waited patiently and the necessary safety checks were made.

Leaving the protective confines of the Bristol Marina behind, it wasn't long before we passed under the historic Ashley River drawbridges of Highway 17. We could hear the loud traffic overhead zipping past on their metal grating. The first, a one way span built in 1926, is known as the Ashley River Memorial Bridge--dedicated to the lost soldiers of World War I and one of four remaining bridges of its kind in South Carolina. The second, a bascule bridge built in 1961, was named after T. Allen Legare--a Charleston lawyer and senator. After slipping past the next bridge in line, the concrete span of the James Island Expressway, our target came into view.

Sitting in about twenty-seven feet of water at present--depth changes with tide--the solitary mast of the sunken sailboat rose out of the Ashley River across from the City Marina. Time was nearing the beginning of the high tide cycle. Our excitement was peaking in anticipation of getting some good underwater video and possibly marine life using the boat for cover.

The Ashley River was once an important water thoroughfare for upriver plantations Drayton Hall, Magnolia Gardens, Runnymede, and Middleton Place in Summerville--an upstream town recognized as an important summer refuge for plantation owners escaping the heat and mosquitoes of downstream Charleston. Their cash crops were indigo, cotton, and rice, with rice the most popular.

Navigating and anchoring the boat into an optimum position in the afternoon breeze and changing tide was a little tricky. We changed our proximity and deployment of the ROV several times throughout our exploratory practice. If anything, it was a golden opportunity for team leader Dave to hone his skills at controlling the feisty Trident. Needless to say, the restless tidal current kicked our butts and the demised sloop was a formidable opponent to tangle with in the murky waters, literally.

With our first mishap recorded in the log, including someone getting wet, we have something to look back on and enjoy a good laugh. Though it wasn't a perfect beginning and we weren't able to get any underwater video of the sailboat, we considered it a success. We learned some lessons, equipment was tested, and the Open Explorer ROV had its baptism into South Carolina waters. Enjoy the video as we share our first preparatory excursion we'll call The Ashley River Baptism.

South Carolina Waters Expedition--A Key Piece Of Grant Funded Equipment Has Arrived

Charleston is home to some of the busiest waters on the southern coast from the daily flow of massive ocean-going container ships to the hundreds of considerably smaller paddleboarders leisurely gliding in and around its estuaries and beaches. Add to this, a cruise ship will periodically slip into port with its load of vacationers hungry to soak in the city's harbor views and peninsula history. For sure, there is a lot to be experienced above water level, but silently overlooked is the abundance to be discovered and shared below its murky coastal waters, historically and ecologically.

Compared to clear water, murky water is characteristically home to an abundance of living organisms, including phytoplankton (a flora of freely floating minute organisms and a key part of oceans, seas and freshwater basin ecosystems) and zooplankton (jellyfish, crustaceans, and other ocean-wandering animals). Sediments also play a role. Along certain coasts, easily agitated finer particles like sand and silt will stay afloat for longer periods adding to the water's murkiness. On the other hand, the sediments off clearer coasts may be heavier and coarser. Instead of fine sand, these sediments are often made up of things like pieces of shells and chunks of dead coral, which are often tougher to stir up. Murky Bulls Bay of the Cape Romain National Wildlife Refuge contains the cleanest, richest waters in the world. Notably, Charleston's waters are also rich with the oozy, gooey, viscous substance locals fondly know as pluff mud.

This is the kind of environment the exploration team of the South Carolina Waters Expedition will be performing in as they explore Charleston's waters from salty coastal marshes up brackish tidal rivers for a glimpse of its sunken ships, flooded ghost towns, submerged relics, and unique marine inhabitants. To see in this type of ecosystem, the team will need some specialized equipment. This key piece of equipment to augment the team's visual capabilities has finally arrived--the OpenROV Trident.

Outfitted with a 1080p camera protected by a hardened sapphire lens, the Trident will provide the essential instrumentation for acquiring the fascinating videography the exploration team plans on sharing with its interested parties and followers. Specifically optimized for underwater filming, its great low-light performance and a wide viewing angle supported by advanced color correction algorithms will further allow the exploration team to observe Charleston's diverse aquatic life and collection of hidden underwater treasures in all its murky colors--ideal for exploring its nutrient rich estuaries and tidal rivers.

The Trident can be extended to include custom sensors or modules as add-ons which can be bolted to the payload area and interface with the main vehicle via WiFi. A phone or tablet can be used to control the drone and stream live HD video.

It will take some practice sessions to master Trident's highly tuned electronic speed controller with its rugged brushless motors capable of reaching speeds of up to 2 m/s for a quick descent as far as 300 feet or glide silently at slow speeds to carefully observe the murky and mysterious underwater environment it will be traversing.

Enjoy the expedition team's first video of team leader Dave Eslinger unboxing and showcasing some of the Trident's features, and stay tuned for upcoming videos of practice sessions as the team familiarizes themselves with its advanced autopilot features and fine tunes their operating skills.


The Expedition Team: Dave Eslinger, Rick Olson, Adam Stover, Paul Zoeller, Brad Mallett, and myself.

Expedition South Carolina Waters Exploring Charleston's Diverse Ecosystem And Habitats--Past And Present

Caressed by the splendor of the rising sun and often threatened by the fury of the Atlantic Ocean, the picturesque and historic city of Charleston presides over her panorama like a queen. Resting on a peninsula cradled by the meandering currents of two merging tidal rivers, the vibrant and diverse downtown cosmopolitan and its welcoming deep water harbor are sheltered and sustained by a chain of barrier islands from Cape Romain to the ACE Basin. Some are inhabited and some are not. Some you can access by car and others only by some form of watercraft. Each of these delicately balanced islands are fringed by pristine, sandy beaches with stands of old, weatherworn oak, palmetto, magnolia and pine trees and linked to the mainland by a maze of verdant saltwater marshes and nutrient rich creeks. All of this natural grandeur makes Charleston a wonderland for water enthusiasts and camera toting naturalists.

Charleston's charismatic character has been molded over a long and illustrious history dating all the way back to the 1600's. Its rise to prominence was greatly influenced by the waters that saturated its diverse coastal topography from the average 5.5 foot saltwater marauder pouring into its estuaries twice a day from the Atlantic Ocean to the freshwater river systems flowing down from the state's upper Sand Hills.

Along its two major waterways, the Ashley and Santee-Cooper, visionaries manipulated their flow to ship goods and build sprawling rice plantations. These islands of affluent aristocracies and commerce would make Charleston the economic powerhouse on the eastern seaboard and a major shipping port, until the crushing affects of the disastrous Civil War squeezed the life out of their once glorious rice domains. Since, these river systems have been manipulated for another use, electricity, particularly the Santee-Cooper with the formation of Lake Moultrie and Lake Marion in 1939.

Today, on and within the Ashley and Santee-Cooper, remnants of a rich history remain for us to explore, absorb, and educate. But not only is it a treasure trove of history, it is an ecosystem filled with natural beauty and abundant wildlife imploring to be seen by all. With this thought in mind, a small group of Summerville resident scientists, photographers, and explorers headed by oceanographer Dave Eslinger are in the planning stages to accomplish this esteemed directive. The Expedition Team is reaching out to local schools and teachers to explore ways to make the accumulated data available for their use to benefit the students in their educational community.

Eslinger's Expedition South Carolina Waters, supported by a grant through the Open Explorer S.E.E. Initiative, have acquired a Remotely Operated Vehicle (ROV) called the Trident to assist in accomplishing the expedition's goals. The Trident will give the expedition team the ability to search and unlock by way of video photography the history and mysteries sealed below Charleston's rich waters. Along with the Trident, information will be acquired with the use of satellite documentation, drones, hand held cameras, and microscopy.

To begin, the expedition will concentrate on the Santee-Cooper waterway and eventually head up the Congaree River to Columbia, a one-time major transporting route which included the Old Santee Canal constructed in 1763--now submerged under Lake Moultrie. We invite you to follow the expedition's progress as the Team shares the imagery and information collected. In the meantime, the Team would appreciate your support by becoming a follower. You can sign up at National Geographic Expeditions South Carolina Waters and click on the FOLLOW tab. There, you can also read Dave Eslinger's bio and more expedition information. Thank you so much for your support and we look forward to sharing and hearing from you.

The Expedition Team: Dave Eslinger, Rick Olson, Adam Stover, Paul Zoeller, Brad Mallett, and myself.