Deep in the hardwood rain forests on the mile-high mountain peaks of western North Carolina flows a network of streams and cascading waterfalls, over 250, to be more exact. Over the years, it has become a mecca of activity for outdoor adventure enthusiasts seeking to conquer the area's maze of trails to reward their effort with a cooling plunge on a warm summer day into the deep pools etched out of the rock at the bottom of the tumbling mountain waters, or maybe, just to snap a memorable picture to take home with them.
Ideally located at the center of the Land of Waterfalls and the gates of Pisgah Forest is the mountain town of Brevard, considered the cultural jewel of the county called Transylvania. However, I use the term "mountain town" loosely because at the height of the tourist season, you will encounter your fair share of traffic and long lights as you navigate its busy streets. The town abounds with locally-run small businesses, restaurants, accommodations, galleries, breweries, points of interest, and a notable local tale. A close friend, who knows Brevard inside-out, told me the story of the town's famous white squirrel, which also has a festival named in its honor.
For my stay, I chose the quaint bed and breakfast called Pine Country Inn, circa 1883. The main house has eight bedrooms and two formal dining areas. Other accommodations include the Little Cottage, the Summer Cottage, and what they call Grandpa's dog-friendly Cottage. Its porches and verandas overlook a small valley and offer plenty of places to sit and swing to soak in the serenity. The owners are very hospitable, and one of the highlights was the personally cooked and served breakfast each morning. The drive up to the inn from Hart Road is a single-lane, twisty ride--hopefully, you do not encounter anyone coming down because somebody will have to give in and back up to their point of entry.
I picked this accommodation because of its proximity to Brevard and another town to the east called Hendersonville--almost equal distance to both, and close to Dupont State Forest. I would spend all my evenings dining in Hendersonville because it was closer to the numerous wine vineyards in the surrounding mountains.
I arrived at the Pine Country Inn on Tuesday afternoon around 3:30 after a 4.5 hour drive from Charleston. I purchased food in town, which I took to the inn, and for the rest of the day, I just chilled and made preparations for the following days.
Wednesday, my first day of trekking and sight-seeing, I went to Dupont State Forest, where I hiked to the stunning 150 foot High Falls. Other falls I visited in this park were Hooker Falls, Triple Falls, and Bridal Veil Falls. It was a 2-mile hike on the High Falls-Triple Falls loop.
Wednesday evening, my companion and I traveled to the Marked Tree Vineyard in Flat Rock, where we shared a bottle of Ghost House Red Wine--Rouge to deep purple in color with notes of black cherry, plum, violet, lilac and sage. As the server poured our first glass, she told us the story about the lone chimney standing outside the tasting room next to the main building parking lot and a ghost story, the inspiration behind the wines name. The chimney is all that remains of the former homestead. The meaning of the Marked Tree is about finding your path.
From the vineyard, we went to the Shine Restaurant in Hendersonville located on the town's iconic main street, a well-designed thoroughfare ideal for strolling and patronizing the many shops and restaurants. My companion ordered the Steak Frite, a roasted and grilled entre with duck fat fried potatoes and garlic aioli, all for $29.50. The duck fat fried potatoes were the attraction, which was shared with me for a first time taste. I ordered off the specials list, which was a serving of Wahoo, but I don't have the full details, $30.50. Wine and Moscow mule were our chosen libations. The food was palate pleasing, the company perfect, and conversation fulfilling, despite the boisterous dining area.
Thursday, I went to Pisgah Forest to take the ride on Sliding Rock, a prime attraction in the park. The line was long. I removed my shoes and shirt, got in line, and waited my turn. I slid down the big rock on the flowing water and plunged into the pool below. The cool water was a perfect refresher for the hot day. Well worth the $5. Next, I went to Looking Glass Falls. Close to the road, I descended the long run of stone stairs to the bottom. It was a calming experience watching the 60 foot falling waters. The falls created a strong wind that covered me with a fine mist.
Thursday evening, my companion and I went to the Stone Ashe Vineyard at 736 Green Mountain Road, my favorite of the two vineyards we visited. After a scenic drive and a wrong turn--even GPS occasionally gets it wrong--we could see the winery complex sitting high above the road on the side of the mountain. We ascended the long driveway to the tasting building. My companion, more knowledgeable about wine than me, made the perfect choice of a 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Rose Wine, slightly bubbly. The view from our chairs was majestic, overlooking the descending vineyard and valley with lightning streaking down onto the surrounding high peaks.
From the vineyard, we returned to Hendersonville and Brandys on Main, a small, intimate restaurant with walls lined with iconic pictures and a Humphrey Bogart statue overlooking the dining area. My companion ordered the Audrey Hepburn--Faroe Island salmon or NC mountain trout grilled and served with rice pilaf and sautéed seasonal vegetables for $28. I ordered The Simone--Jumbo shrimp with blue crab stuffing, broiled and served over rice with hollandaise sauce for $30. Wine and Moscow mule for libations. During the dinner, I learned about Silkies--fluffy, white chickens.
To close out the night and the highlight for the week, we went to the Flat Rock Playhouse to see "West Side Story." The theater is a beautiful venue with state-of-the-art sound, wood-beamed ceilings, comfortable seats, and wood all around--perfect for a mountain setting. There was a full house. The play was thoroughly entertaining. The actor, who played Marie, performed with strong vocals. When you are in Flat Rock, the theater is well worth checking out.
To sum up my trip to western North Carolina and the Land of Waterfalls, it was a week I will forever remember.
