A Thanksgiving Day Visit To The Boathouse Restaurant At Breach Inlet And A Spectacular Dolphin Show

The roads into the Isle of Palms from Summerville were sparsely traveled on this Thursday. Lowcountry residences were gathered around their tables with family and friends feasting on turkey and pumpkin pie, except for the few of us who selected to eat out at one of the various restaurants that chose to open their doors for the festivities. After surveying the list, the one-time ramshackled bait shop that became the Boathouse Restaurant had an appealing menu offering eight different entrees from which to choose for $36.95 per person. Reservations were set for 3:45 pm.

The November 28th sun was making its final farewell overtures with a mixed palette of oranges and yellows while a group of dolphins frolicked in the colorfully mirrored waters of the gradually darkening surroundings of Breach Inlet. Their momentary appearances for a quick breath of the cool air rippled the placid waters of the meandering outgoing tide. As I reflectively gazed out over the tranquil waters, thoughts of family and Thanksgivings past pleasantly invaded my grateful thoughts. A picture-perfect setting for the Thanksgiving Dinner offering at the Inlet's esteemed restaurant.

The entrance was marked by a rowboat hanging from the rafters above the double glass doors, a preview of what to expect once inside - more 100 year old vintage rowboats decorating its ceilings. The hostess offered us a choice between eating in the main dining area or on the porch overlooking the intercoastal waters of the Inlet. We took a quick look before finalizing our decision.

The main dining had a near full house. A nautical theme throughout, it was heavy on wood. Photographs taken in the early 1900's by Albert Cook, a famous nautical photographer, lined the walls. The porch was a few steps down, not as crowded with fans overhead and a couple of propane heaters. The view was the highlight, although hazy from the necessary clear plastic needed to keep the colder outside elements of November from making it uncomfortable. We chose the porch for the view.

Upon being seated, we were presented the menu with a respectable wine list. A server, not ours, stopped and offered water or drinks, which I thought was impressive on her part, taking the initiative. By the time our server arrived, we were ready to give our selections.

For the first of the three courses offered, I chose the Butternut Bisque. Second, I went with Roasted Turkey with Cornbread dressing, Giblet Gravy and Cranberry Sauce for the entree, which were served with a choice of two sides. I went Southern with the Grits and a typical choice for me, Mashed Potatoes. Finally, and this is where it got complicated, I chose Pecan Bourbon Bread Pudding for dessert, but unfortunately they were out. So, next choice was Pumpkin Cheesecake, but there is a story to come concerning this choice. To round out the selections, a bottle of Chardonnay by William Hill was uncorked.

The Butternut Bisque had a nutmeg-pumpkin flavor to it and was very tasty. The generous portion of roasted turkey, four slices, was mouth-watery and tender. The mashed potatoes were just right and the grits, y'all guest it, were gritty.

Now for the desert. As for the Pumpkin Cheesecake, I have no observation to give, I was informed they ran out of it also. Y'all kiddin' me. What to do, what to do. The choices left for dessert were a Chocolate Mousse Cake and Key Lime Pie, but the server tossed out another choice that was not on the menu and had the word cheesecake in it, Chocolate-chip Cheesecake-and taken. The server threw in an extra glass of wine for compensation.

Now for some particulars. The restaurant staff was hospitable. Our server, David, was attentive and helpful. The courses were brought out in a timely fashion. We were not rushed. In fact we were the last to leave, which was around 5:30 pm. The menu and presentations were classy. The restaurant has the water-front appeal, which many restaurants cannot offer. Although, I did not sit in the main dining area, what I saw was rich in the warmth of wood with a strong nautical theme. I will be returning at some point in time to try their seafood recipes featuring seafood and produce from local farmers, fisherman, clammers, and shrimpers from around the coast.

I am a frequent visitor to their rooftop bar. The view of the inlet at sunset is unrivaled. I took some beautiful pictures of the sunset over the Inlet that night and the group of dolphins that call the inlet home put on an excellent show. One dolphin swam up to the shore several times and rolled over in the water at the edge next to the restaurant overlook. Spectacular.

Location: 101 Palm Blvd, Isle of Palms, SC 29451. Phone: 843.886.8000
Winter hours of operation (begins Nov. 4th) : Sunday - Thursday: 5pm-9pm, Friday and Saturday: 5pm-10pm. Sunday brunch 11am - 2pm

Bowens Island Restaurant-It's Like Pluff Mud, Either You Love it Or You Don't

It stands above the island's tidal creek like an old brown pelican perched on a weatherworn dock,
spreading its wings in the warm southern sun. A hodgepodge of grayed timber, rusty corrugated steel, old doors for windows, graffiti covered tables and piles of bleached oyster shells, it was recognized as an "American Classic", basked in the lights of Hollywood and successfully endured trial by fire. It is tastefully Lowcountry through and through in its fare and adored by the locals, but if you are expecting to be served hand and foot, you're at the wrong place. It has been tagged with a reputation similar to pluff mud, "Either you love it or you don't", and that is just about how its reviews read.

Located on a 13-acre island, Bowens Island Restaurant is just five minutes from Folly Beach. It was established 46 years ago by the Bowen family. The original structure was mostly destroyed by a fire in 2006. In that same year, just before the fire, it won a prestigious James Beard Foundation Award - named one of eight "America's Classics" boasting "timeless appeal and quality food that reflects the history and character of its community."

In 2010, the restaurant appeared in the movie Dear John under the name Shrimp Shack. It has been referred to as a seafood dive, but when that reference is coming from Coastal Living and Southern Living magazines the reference would be more a compliment than a slur - meaning in this case "a simple place with traditional fare and unforgettable ambiance."

On Charleston Magazine's "Charleston Bucket List - things every local must experience", dining at Bowens Island Restaurant was number 25. The magazine said, "there's no finer place in the world to watch the sunset over the marsh, slurping oysters harvested just a few yards away." A large deck overlooking the water with umbrellaed tables is perfect for such nightly renditions.

If you are looking for a menu to view on its web sight, you can forget it as well. Oysters, fried shrimp, hushpuppies, Frogmore stew, and cold beer is all you will find. The oysters, what the restaurant is best known for, are locally harvested and shoveled onto old, wooden tables from the fire pit. The beers are all local brews. Finally, be forewarned - No frills, no personalized service, loud patrons and a rude bartender are what you should expect according to some of the reviews. The food - Judge it for yourself.

The restaurant had that old shack-on-the-water, oysterman village appeal. Piles of white oyster shells decorated the landscape. The remains of an old boat ramp overgrown with sea grass reminds one of past maritime glory. A fishing pier with a raggedy pavilion was connected to a bait hut just outside of the rust tattered Sophisticate room. My favorite was a Caribbean style sign hanging above two tables reminding you it was "Another Day In Paradise."

Bowens Island Restaurant is open Tuesday to Saturday 5pm to 10 pm. It is located at 1870 Bowens Island Rd, Charleston, SC. A kayak/paddleboard rental run by Charleston Outdoor Adventures is on sight.

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The Rise From Ashes To Glory-The True Story of RB's Seafood Restaurant on Shem Creek

In 2002, the scene on Shem Creek would have been much different than the stunning waterfront we experience currently. A 35-seat eatery located in an old fish shed next to Red's Ice House was reduced by an accidental fire to ashes and rubble, leaving a blackened and charred heap that was once RB's Seafood Restaurant. It would be difficult to imagine the resulting void given the gorgeous view we are blessed with, and that is because from the ashes of gloom but not doom, a bigger and better RB's rose in its place.

The new seafood establishment seats more than 300 guests and has been nominated "the number one waterfront restaurant" for the past three of the 34 years it has been on Shem Creek, the original 35-seat eatery opened in 1979. The RB stands for Ronnie Boals, the owner and operator.

The front entrance walkway was flanked on both sides with navigation buoys and a large anchor adorned the landscaping. A sign hung above the door bearing the words, "We appreciate all who pass through our door." Stepping into the restaurant was like entering the lavish corridors of the old Titanic with its teak and mahogany accented decor. A long bar stood to the right, to the left, near the seating desk, was a ship's wheel. Sea pictures framed in ship portholes lined the walls above the dining booths and strategically placed oars, paddles, lanterns and sextants supported its nautical theme.

The day I visited the restaurant it was hot, humid, and overcast. I had been to RB's previously, but only for a cocktail with friends. The upper eating area was closed that late night, so we sat in the open-air porch on the lower level overlooking the boat dock and Shem Creek.

I requested a table on the upper section. The hostess directed me to the stairs located on an open porch lined with adirondack chairs of various bright colors.

At the top of the stairs, I was greeted by a life-like green alligator dressed in chef's attire holding a plate of napkins in one hand and a chalkboard in the other with the words "Welcome to Tiki" written on it.

It had an island feel. A colorful wrap-around bar with a bamboo-trimmed top dominated the space, above it was a grass-thatched canopy. I was greeted by another hostess. She directed me to my table. The whole table arrangement, unlike anything I had seen before, was a wooden swing with a grass-thatched top that you stepped onto, which I did.

I ordered a Palmetto Amber and from the extensive lunch menu selected the Mahi Mahi Sandwich for $13.50 with one side of Creek Fries. I sipped on my beer, watched the Thriller pull out from its covered dock by Vickory's with a boat-load of passengers, took pictures of the life-like pirate hanging from a rope, and enjoyed the gentle back and forth tidal motion of the table-swing while savoring the delicious fish sandwich.

 

 

After completing my meal, I sat on one of the chairs on the boat dock until it started to lightly rain. A group was boarding one of the shark charters. I cleverly remarked, "Sharks don't care about rain." They facetiously agreed and pulled away from the dock with the smell of boat fuel mixed with saltwater whiffing the moist air, but a couple of minutes later returned because the sprinkle turned into a Lowcountry summertime downpour. I ended the visit sitting on the adirondack chairs soaking in the coastal ambiance that is Shem Creek while the heavy rains descended.

My main objective that hot and rainy afternoon day was to enjoy a cooling beer and a relaxing lunch by the water. There is no better place than Shem Creek to do that and no better restaurant than RB's Seafood Restaurant according to public opinion and the critics. It is known for its complete package-fresh seafood, friendly service, and fair prices.

The true test of integrity is when it appears to matter the least. Even though it was just a simple lunch consisting of a simple fish sandwich, I can confirm the truthfulness of that opinion. The whole staff was friendly and engaging from greet to receipt. The food was fresh. The server was attentive. The price was fair if you pair it with the posh material surroundings and the superb waterfront view.

 

RB's Seafood Restaurant is open for lunch Monday thru Sunday 11:30 am to 4:00 pm and 4:00 pm to 10:00 pm for dinner Monday thru Thursday and Sunday. Friday and Saturday it is open until 10:30 pm.

The Fish House On Patriots Point-Superb Food And A View Second To None

It was to be an unusual day for me. I would be stepping out of my comfort zone. Store hopping was in the works. This is a rare event and the kind of activity I generally shy away from, but is at times knowingly necessary. There was this space that needed filling and an idea for a wall arrangement. I was joined by a friend who, by the way, loves to shop and is both talented and knowledgeable when it comes to designing spaces. Coleman Blvd in Mt. Pleasant was to be our destination, a mecca of antique stores.

The first order of business with the noon hour approaching was food. Mixing some pleasure with the business of the day was also part of the plan, but an ordinary lunch it would not be. Coleman Blvd is also a gateway to a mecca of outstanding water-side eateries and watering holes. The Fish House for one, Patriots Point's newest culinary attraction and the first to come in view while crossing the Cooper River from Charleston to Mt. Pleasant via the Ravenel Bridge.

The Fish House has been open for a little over a month and has created plenty of buzz since. From atop the bridge, the view of the restaurant on the Point, in the distance, was impressive, but standing on location, at the restaurant's waterfront setting, the view was even more extraordinary.

We entered the restaurant. The rooftop bar was our desired destination but upon arrival we found out it would not be open to patrons until 3 pm. We were so interested in having lunch in an open-air setting. As we mulled over the options, the bartender on duty heard our conversation with the hostess and offered his assistance. He summoned the manager and had the roll-up windows, which were presently down, opened. We were seated at our table fully satisfied with the warm Charleston Bay breeze surrounding us. The bartender offered to whip me up a special island drink. I accepted and the server delivered the concocted Rum Runner and my friend's Cranberry Vodka.

According to the rules for proper use of napkins, I appropriately laid it in my lap. My friend, very fussy about proper etiquette, was impressed. We sipped our drinks, soaked in the awesome view, and surveyed the lunch menu. My friend inquired of the server, "I'm interested in the Fish Sandwich. What kind of fish is it?" "It is mahi-mahi," answered the server. "I'll take it." I was going to keep it light and selected the Caesar Salad. I normally wouldn't choose salad as a main dish. I'll blame it on the sea air or maybe I wasn't really that hungry after snacking through the morning. Regardless, I am glad I did. You don't hear me use the adjective "superb" often. In this case, it is appropriate.

The Caesar Salad was a dish of prosciutto-wrapped romaine lettuce hearts, parmesan cheese tulle and sourdough croutons. The prosciutto was a pleasantly mouth-watering touch and the whole wrap appeared to be slightly charred, which gave it a smoky flavor. I savored every slice. Yes, I used a knife to eat a salad. My friend said the fish sandwich was very good.

The restaurant's numerous large windows and high ceilings give the seating areas an open, airy atmosphere. The wood beams, black lights and black fans hang from above in contrast to the lighter ceiling. Pictures and replicas of local saltwater specimens are everywhere, reminding you of the reason you are here, a good fish dinner. The historic Charleston skyline, the USS Yorktown, and the Charleston Harbor Resort Marina can be seen from literally every table and the rooftop bar's view is second to none. A point of interest-The bar top on the first floor is made from broken bottles of Sky Blue Vodka. It's an awesome centerpiece to gather around for a cocktail.

 

The staff from first contact to receipt was hospitable, friendly and helpful. The bartender went above and beyond his duties and that impressed me. Finally, thank you to Charles Arena, Jr. and the kitchen staff for an excellent culinary experience. I will be returning for the dinner menu.

We spent more money in the Fish House store and then bid farewell to Captain Morgan. Next stop, Shem Creek and the Water's Edge. We sat at a table next to the docks and watched the dolphin, the paddleboarders, and boaters while sipping on one more Rum Runner. I was now primed and ready to take on the exhausting task of store hopping for decorative accessories.

The Ordinary On King Street-An Oyster Hall Ernest Hemmingway Would Fancy

Paris café Le Dome

In the 1920's, Ernest Hemmingway was in Paris. He sat at a cafe and ordered a plate of oysters and a glass of wine. After consuming the mollusks and vintage he described the experience. He wrote, "As I ate the oysters with their strong taste of the sea and their faint metallic taste that the cold white wine washed away, leaving only the sea taste and the succulent texture, and as I drank their cold liquid from each shell and washed it down with the crisp taste of the wine, I lost the empty feeling and began to be happy and to make plans."

It was this passage that sparked Jon Rowley's passion for oysters. As consultant to restaurants and seafood companies, he has received national marketing awards and considerable media coverage for restaurant oyster programs and promotions he has initiated. He is also credited with coining the word "merroir".

"Merroir" is used to describe an oyster's tasty relationship to the briny water it lives in. It is a twist on the French word "terroir" which refers to the unique flavors and qualities that a growing region imparts on the products raised there, as with grapes and wines.

"Merroir" brings to mind another observation penned by Tom Robbins, "Eating a raw oyster is like French kissing a mermaid." Alas, I can only imagine. When it comes to French kissing a mermaid or more precisely slurping oysters, I am a virgin. I have been to the oyster festivals in Charleston and watched people voraciously consume mountains of the beloved crustaceans, but I have resisted its affections. I like to chew my food.

Either way, "merroir" is a word associated with a new oyster hall in Charleston, The Ordinary. Its address is the once-upon-a-time Bank of America building on upper King Street built in 1929 renovated. Hall is a fitting designation for this fairly new American brasserie considering it has 22-foot ceilings. The massive bank vault door that once secured the money remains as an eye catching centerpiece. It separates the raw bar and the kitchen.

Chef Mike Lata speaks of "merroir" as he describes the oysters found in South Carolina's waters known for their briny, juicy burliness and rarely found outside this area. Two local oysters served are the Capers Blades and Otter Island wilds. Caper Blades are grown in Bull's Bay and Otter Island wilds are harvested around untouched Otter Island located between Edisto Beach and Hunting Island.

One notable difference between the two oysters is their shape. Capers Blades have sharp and elongated shells and Otter Island wilds are rounder and very flat. A second difference is where "merroir" comes in. The taste of each oyster is related to the waters where it is harvested. The Otter Island oyster is "considered by many to be one of the best wild oysters to ever be harvested in South Carolina characterized as being meaty, salty yet sweet, full flavored South Carolina oyster." The question remains, will you agree? Only one way to find out.  

While it is an oyster hall, other menu offerings include cold and hot dishes of clams, lobster, and a crispy grouper sandwich. Large plates of Swordfish Schnitzel, Black Bass Provencal, Grilled Wahoo and Blackened Mahi Frites are offered with vegetables and sides. All wine offerings are shellfish driven.

So, take the hint from Hemmingway and be happy and make plans to visit The Ordinary. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 3pm to 11pm. Location is 544 King Street.

Vote for the Best Iconic American Foods. Charleston, SC-Shrimp and Grits is a nominee. The final results will be posted July 24th.

The Wreck On Shem Creek-A Hidden Gem With Interesting Ambience and Good Food

If it wasn't for the GPS, finding our way around the numerous turns and side streets could have been somewhat of a challenge. No large sign confirmed our arrival. Numerous trees draped with Spanish moss concealed the establishment. The only verification we had arrived at our destination was the GPS prompt and a wooden sign over a walkway leading to the waters of Shem Creek. The restaurant entrance was to the right of the walkway, a small wooden deck leading to a red door, but the allure of the waterfront seduces you to venture on down the walkway past the wooden, overhead sign where on the left , surrounded by low growing bushes, was the dilapidated remains of a weather worn, old boat.

 

The view of Shem Creek is splendid. Close by, a shrimp boat was moored on the wooden pilings along the water's edge. Across the inlet waters, on the other side, was the sprawling marsh of Shem Creek and the wooden walkway used by visitors for taking in the sights and sounds of the old waterway. Beyond, in the distance, I could see the pointed spires of the Ravenel Bridge standing tall in the darkening skyline of Charleston.

The name of the restaurant is The Wreck of the Richard and Charlene, so named in honor of the Richard and Charlene, a North Atlantic trawler that was destroyed by Hurricane Hugo while it was moored at the Wando dock. The story relates how during the fury of the hurricane the piling on which the trawler was moored tore loose from the bottom of the creek and became impaled on a nearby dock. After the waters of the hurricane receded, the ruined trawler sat for nine months, immovable until finally removed by salvagers, never to sail again.

The restaurant is in a dark, old building. Green awnings covered the side that faced the creek. The wood rails and posts leading down towards the water were weather beaten and gracefully grayed with age. Wooden benches and a few tables with chairs were scattered about. I took some pictures and breathed in the salty air and for the moment reflected on serenity of Shem Creek. I headed back to the front entrance.

Upon entry, past the red door, an old boat hung from the ceiling. At the hostess booth, a sign advised us that cell phone usage was prohibited in the dining area. We were greeted by the hostess and within five minutes escorted to a table with a good view of the water. Like the building, the interior was dark, unpainted and uninteresting. An old ship's wheel was mounted on one of the support pillars.

The tables were covered with paper instead of cloth and the chairs were uncomfortable. It was apparent ambiance was not a concern. Judging by the packed restaurant, the customers didn't care about the ambiance either. We looked over the menu that was handed us as the waitress greeted us and answered a few of our questions. Ordering here is different than what is customary. We were instructed to circle our choices with the provided red marker. This was primarily a seafood place, so on the menu there was a disclaimer about ordering red meat, basically saying "what you get is what you get" when comes to its preparation and cooking. For me, that would not be a problem. I am not much of a red meat enthusiast.

The Wreck was offering bottles of wine at half price. For my beverage choice I requested sweet tea and it was brought to me in a plastic cup. For my food selection, I chose the shrimp and scallop platter to be fried. The sides included red rice, a hush puppy, and a hominy square. When it was finally delivered to the table, the food was served on a paper plate. With the paper table coverings, paper plates, and plastic cups, it was apparent to me avoiding extra work such as washing dishes was part of their enterprise, and I don't blame them. The shrimp were very tasty and the scallops melted in my mouth. I was surprisingly pleased with the whole platter.

The view of the creek was lovely. The building was a wreck and I concluded that it is part of their ambience. The food was delicious. The service was good. The waitress was accommodating, although she had to be reminded about refilling my sweet tea in the beginning, but that was only once. I would recommend you give The Wreck a try, only bring cash with you, especially if you come in a group. The restaurant will not split the bill, which makes credit card payment difficult, unless you are planning on paying for everyone in your party.

Restaurant Week In Charleston-Make a Date With The Cities Top Chefs And Restaurants

It is that time of the year again food lovers in Charleston. It is Restaurant Week, and not just in Chartleston, but all over South Carolina. So, if you are feeling adventurous or romantic and want to spend a night away from homebase, let's say in Myrtle Beach, you have a whole list of participating establishments to choose from for your stay. But for this article I am going to focus on the capital of what has become known as Lowcountry Cuisine, Charleston.

Lowcountry Cuisine is closely associated with the cuisine of another popular southern city, New Orleans. The cultural influences found in New Orleans are very much similar to those of Charleston, which include the English, French, Spanish, Irish, Italians, Africans, and Caribbean Islanders who settled here over three centuries ago. They all brought with them the tastes from their native lands and over these passing centuries have blended their distinctive recipes together using Charleston's geography as the food palate because its geography is a critical factor in distinguishing the region's culinary identity.

Charleston's rich estuary system provides an abundance of shrimp, fish, crabs, and oysters captured daily aong with locally grown squash, green beans, broccoli, spinach, okra, collards, onions, tomatoes, cucumbers, Brussels sprouts, asparagus, a number of different lettuces and a variety of herbs that are the prime ingredients used to capture this flavor of Charleston. Some Lowcountry signature dishes are she-crab soup, Huguenot torte, benne wafers, fried green tomatoes, sweet potato pone, crab cakes, shrimp and grits, and frogmore stew.

Today, it is much more than just the Lowcountry Cuisine. American, French, Italian, Mediterranean, Mexican, Indian, Japanese, Chinese, Vietnamese, Cajun, Creole, and about anything else food experts crave can be found in the Holy City. Charleston is home to many internationally known chefs. Some of the better known are Chef Jason Houser of the Muse, Chef Jon Cropf of Blu Restaurant and Bar, Chef John O'Brien of Bocci's Italian Restaurant, Chef Jude Wagner of The Library at Vendue Inn, Chef Steven J. Lusby of 82 Queen, Chef Marc Collins of Circa 1886, and Chef Sean Brock of McCrady's to name a few. Charleston has more fine dining establishments per capita than any other city in the South.

My first dining experience in Charleston, some eight years ago, was at Hymans Seafood. It became a favorite during those early years of vacationing here before deciding to make Charleston my home. On those occasions I looked forward to seeing what celebrity previously sat at the very same table I was now seated. The restaurant had a custom of putting the names of notable people that visited their establishment on the tables. An unfortunate circumstance, my camera was stolen by one of its employees, changed all that, and I never returned.

My most notable dining experience was at the Woodlands Inn in Summerville. The staff treated us like royalty. They were hospitable, gracious, and attentive from beginning to end. The setting of the table, the care taken in clearing it for each course of the meal, and the presentation of each dish was professional. What I really appreciated was the opportunity they gave us to sample various dishes that were not a part of our selection. It most likely was a plus that a nephew of mine worked in the kitchen.

So, go ahead, pick one from the long list of participating restaurants. Now is the opportunity to check out the one restaurant you have been wanting to experience. May I suggest Bocci's, one of my favorite. High Cotton, whether it be breakfast or dinner is always an excellent choice. Make it a family affair or a romantic evening out. All are ready to cater to your taste buds with their own personal blend of herbs and spices perfectly matched to the offering sprinkled with a pleasing ambience and southern hospitality.

Some available hotel romance packages. Woodlands Inn specials and packages.