On any given day in the summertime, the short stretch of Middle Street from 22 1/2 Station to 22 Station is a sea of ravenous visitors packing inside and out the restaurants lining the busy Sullivan's Island thoroughfare, the most popular being Poe's Tavern. Continue on from there toward historic Fort Moultrie near the western tip of the island and you will in short time approach an old grey-stoned Gothic-styled structure on the left.Before I continue with the particulars, there is nothing better than a good Scottish riddle to wet the wits, and is as follows. Upon first glance do not assume what you are seeing is what you think it is because what you think you are seeing actually was what you are thinking but is not now. Baffled? Not really. And, yes to what you think. It was a church. The Chapel of the Holy Cross was its name. It is now a privately owned beach castle named Mugdock.
The name Mugdock conjures up thoughts of legends and fantasies straight out of the pages of Harry Potter or Lord of the Rings. Notwithstanding, the island property's distinctive name was inspired by a another castle in faraway Scotland bearing the same name, which was built in the mid 14th century by the Clan Graham. It is located in the county of Stirlingshire on the northern outskirts of Greater Glasgow. Interestingly, Mugdock Castle on Sullivan's Island is owned by a Graham who purchased the property in November of 2002. The history of the property on which Mugdock Castle sits is as mystical as the ruins of its far distant counterpart.
In the days Edgar Allan Poe walked the beaches of Sullivan's Island while stationed at Fort Moultrie in 1827, the Grace Church stood on this property. The church was consecrated in 1819 and served the parish until 1863. It was destroyed during the Union’s 545-day bombardment of Sullivan's Island and Charleston. Nothing was built on the property until almost thirty years later when a stone structure characterized by a formidable square tower was built. It became the Church of the Holy Cross and held its first service in 1892.
In 1898, the federal government began enlarging Fort Moultrie. In the process, the Chapel was forcibly acquired despite the objections of the Episcopal Diocese for the paltry sum of $6,000. With the loss, the Diocese built a new Church of the Holy Cross two miles east.
The confiscated stone structure served as the Post chapel until Fort Moultrie was deactivated in 1947. At this time, St. Mark's Lutheran Church acquired the building. In 1972, the chapel was deconsecrated and transformed into a private residence and owned by M and I Trust of Jeansville, Wisconsin.
In 2002, a man named Vince Graham took an interest in the property with plans to move the building to the I'On neighborhood in Mount Pleasant and re-establish it back as an Episcopal church. Not wanting to lose the old building with deep roots in Sullivan's history, the island's council took steps to block the move. Graham dug in for a fight, but backed down at the request of the Diocese for fear political repercussions might disrupt construction of a new sanctuary. Graham rolled with the punches. He moved to acquire the property in November of that year despite having to change his plan. He was mesmerized by the old building with a new vision.
With a updated plan to turn the former chapel into a beach castle, renovations were started in January of 2003. Modifications made by the previous owner were removed and structural integrity was restored. The church altar was removed in April and put in storage. With renovations completed by July of 2004, the Gothic landmark reinforced with two foot thick Georgia granite walls was christened the Winter Hall and North Tower where a bedchamber resides with a casement above it. In the casement, a ship's ladder ascends to the northern ramparts and a spectacular view of everything Charleston.Four years later in 2008, foundations were laid for an addition and the beach castle expanded to include a colorful Summer Hall and southern ramparts with a Romanesque influence.
If you think the exterior facade of Mugdock is magical, step inside and you will be transported into the pages of medieval history experienced today only in the cinematic fantasies of Universal Studios.
The Winter Hall houses the kitchen, dining hall, library, buttery, throne room, and minstrel gallery. Wood crafted vaulted ceiling, candled chandeliers and a mind blowing medieval fireplace are notable features. The fully equipped kitchen features a brilliant deep blue cast iron Aga stove, Bosch, Sub-Zero, and Fisher and Paykel appliances. The North Tower accommodates a small bed chamber as well as the casemate above. In the casement, a ship's ladder ascends to the northern ramparts and a spectacular view of everything Charleston.
The whimsical and white stucco Summer Hall has aged in the southern sun. Inside, it has battered masonry walls, two and a half feet thick at the base. It houses the undercroft(a wood-beamed, white pillared ground level open area), the castle laundry, six bed chambers with associated wardrobes, and 5 1/2 garderobes (bathrooms). There are two south facing porches complimented with colorful shuttered arched doors. The porches provide access to additional dining facilities located atop the southern ramparts.
The Winter Hall and Summer Hall are connected by a central stair tower and bailey. Amenities include A/V and technology equipment such as stereo, wireless Internet, and a 7' diagonal projection television. There are bicycles for sightseeing and kayaks to explore the surrounding waterways. Mugdock's grounds feature the Morning Courtyard to the east and Summer Lawn and Olive Groves to the south. There is also a pool.
Mugdock Castle arouses the imagination. It is another example of the many unique and captivating Charleston area landmarks. Many people, Lowcountry residents included, are probably unaware of what lies beyond the old grey-stoned structure at 1401 Middle Street.
Next time you are on Sullivan's Island to enjoy its sandy beach or visit one of its well known eating establishments like Poe's Tavern, take a moment and drive to the western tip near Fort Moultrie. You just might catch a glimpse of the Earl of Mugdock roaming the grounds of this bastion of hospitality greeting visitors with an enthusiastic Scottish wag.
You can contact Mugdock Castle here.
