Domaine Carneros Reminds Me of a Mini Palace of Versailles

Domaine Carneros

Napa Valley is mile upon mile of hundreds of hillside vineyards and beautiful estates nestled between the Vaca and Mayacamas mountain ranges. At its southern end, the Carneros region is influenced by the cooler winds of San Francisco’s San Pablo Bay. The grapes of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay for sparkling and still wine are king. It is home to over 20 wineries. Domaine Carneros is one of them. The winery’s impressive main structure was inspired by the historic Louis XV style Chateau in Champaign, France.

18th Century Chateau de la Marquetterie was the country retreat of famous writer and father of French fantastic fiction Jacques Cazotte from 1760 to the French Revolution. He wrote the book entitledThe Devil in Love published in 1772. It was a story about a Spanish nobleman who is seduced by the Devil disguised as a beautiful woman named Biondetta. He was guillotined during the Reign of Terror for opposing the revolution and Martinist mysticism.

18th Chateau de la Maquetterie

Château de la Marquetterie would become the venue at harvest time for a glittering gathering of the French literati of the 18th Century, Voltaire and André Chénier to name but two. Two centuries later, young calvary officer Pierre-Charles Taittinger would become captivated by Château de la Marquetterie, which he discovered on joining the command of Marshal Joffre who made his headquarters here in 1914. Pierre-Charles acquired the chateau in 1934, placing a precious piece of Champagne heritage in the safe-keeping of the Taittinger family whose emblem remains to this day.

Domaine Carneros, a breathtakingly beautiful Château, was established in 1987 when Claude Taittinger selected a 138-acre parcel in the heart of Carneros, Napa Valley. It is a singular Napa Valley winery best known as a small grower-producer of méthode traditionnelle sparkling wine, with distinctive styles ranging from the classic vintage-dated Brut cuvée to its luxury Le Rêve Blanc de Blancs. In 1992 they added rich, complex Pinot Noir to their portfolio and its passion for exceptional sparkling and still wines continues to grow. 100% of their wine’s fruit comes from their six estate vineyards comprising 400 acres.

Claude Taittinger wisely chose Eileen Crane, often referred to as America's doyenne of Sparkling Wine, to oversee the development of the Taittinger style in Carneros. In 2020, after 33 years, Crane passed the torch to a new CEO, Remi Cohen, whose role carries on the Taittinger tradition of visionary female leadership. Ushering in a new era of Domaine Carneros, Cohen brings two decades of experience in all facets of the wine industry to the Château.

Domaine Carneros majestically towers over its surrounding Napa landscape. Through the welcoming gate and from the parking area, you ascend a terraced stairway flanked by sculptured bushes and colorful flower plantings. Near the top you arrive at a cemented patio with a decorative concrete wall where two large plaques present a brief history of the Chateau and its vineyard. One more flight beyond, you reach its sprawling front terrace with umbrella covered tables filled with wine lovers soaking in its ambiance and stunning views.

Step through the double door entrance into the chateau’s foyer, you are engulfed in decorative elegance. A welcoming desk overshadowed by a huge portrait painting greets you with the necessary information. Beyond the foyer, a gift shop full of tempting chocolate products, hats, trinkets, and bottles of wine leads to a large, glass enclosed salon filled with white tables. Outside the glass windows was a side terrace with a large fountain in the middle. Around back, you will find a huge fireplace and two tall wooden doors leading into its wine producing facility lined with its giant, stainless steel vats.

There is one thing you need to know before you make the trip to Domaine Carneros, and it is key if your objective is to sample their appellation of champagne and wine products. You need to make a reservation to sit at one of their tables. I was unaware of this. You can walk around and marvel at the beauty of its chateau. You can purchase its delectable wine imbued chocolates and signature bottles of wine to go in its gift shop, but without that reservation, their tables are off limits.

Daily hour long tastings are offered for a minimum of $40 per person accompanied by your choice of local artisan cheese, charcuterie, or caviar. There is also a Bubbles and Bites for a Mediterranean-like experience at $99 per person. Other tastings are The Art of Sabrage and The Ultimate Caviar Experience $125 and $175 per person.

Anyone can tell you, the Domaine Carneros Château is a stunning landmark. It produces some of the finest sparkling and still wines. From its expansive terrace, the view of its stairway gardens and sprawling vineyard to the Napa landscape beyond is picturesque. It reminds me of a mini Palace of Versailles.

1240 Duhig Road

Napa, CA

(707) 257-0101

A Bit of Bar Crawl History to Sip on During Summerville’s “Hold My Tea Bar Crawl”

Frothy Beard Off World

Why is it called a “bar crawl”? It sounds like people are moving from bar to bar on their hands and knees—an outrageous thought but not necessarily inconceivable. The same could be said about the term “bar hoping”. You are not literally hoping from bar to bar. The answer is quite simply, it is one of those nonsensical idioms we use to describe a night out patronizing local drinking holes whether planned or not.

Ironically, in this case, there is a sobering truth in this idiom. It is possible that crawling from bar to bar could happen if a person drank too much at one bar and found walking to the next to be a bit challenging, an embarrassing picture for the person, but since when are the intoxicated rational. Upon investigation, it turns out the term originated in the United Kingdom in 1645 or was it the 19th century? Leave it to the pub-loving Brits to come up with this thought provoking expression.

As one story tells, a group of hooligans led by Sir Geoffrey Toppenbottom decided to go out drinking one night and hit the local taverns. When it came to drinking ale, they were a hardy group of heavy-weights and drank the local tavern dry. Three villages and four taverns later, Sir Toppenbottom and his drinking mates forgot where they left their horses and managed to crawl their way home. From the experience, they coined the term “pub crawl”. After a few tall ones, you just might find this tall tale easier to swallow.

For a more believable story, we go to the Oxford English Dictionary. The 19th century was when British towns and cities exploded in size. As the towns grew, so did the number of public drinking houses, many in close proximity to one another. For a single night of fun and socializing with friends, patrons moved from pub to pub at a slow and steady pace as opposed to rushing. Thus, the term “crawl” became the descriptive for the event.

Five Flowers

Amaret-Tea

I am glad to report I did not see anyone crawling from drinking establishment to drinking establishment in Summerville for the Sweet Tea Festival’s “Hold My Tea Bar Crawl”, but I did observe local residents and visitors having a good time socializing and evaluating the bar’s cocktail entry so as to vote for their favorite. The winning bartender will receive the People’s Choice recognition after the conclusion of the event on Sunday.

There was one question I put to the competing bartenders as I went from bar to bar. By observation, and this is just my opinion, women tend to socialize and engage in local events in groups more than men, unless it has to do with a sporting event. I asked them, “Have there been more women participating in the bar crawl than men or visa versa?” The overwhelming consensus was, “It has been about even.” It was great to hear the bar crawl was being so well supported.

Sweet Tea Mojito

Bubbly Bee Tea

Flowertown Mojito

Summerville’s competing bars and restaurants are Hilton Garden Inn—Sweet Tea Mojito—Ashlee Circelli, Five Loaves Cafe—Flowertown Mojito—Kacie Bankers, The Azalea Bar and Garden—Five Flowers—Elizabeth Cureton, Frothy Beard Off World—InfiniTEA—Brennen Walters, Sweetwater One Twenty Three—Amaret-Tea—Chelsea Cronk, The IceHouse—Bubbly Bee Tea—Jeana Masula, and Godwin’s Beer Hall—Shepard’s Shandy—Austin Willard. All of the cocktails have been very good, and picture perfect. It will be a difficult decision in choosing my favorite, and my vote is just one. Summerville will decide.

Shepard’s Shandy

The “Hold My Tea Bar Crawl” has become a regular part of Sweet Tea Festival Week. It has been fun enjoying a quality cocktail made by local, talented bartenders and socializing with friends and making new acquaintances. Be sure to take it slow and easy and savor the moment, that is what it is all about. Added to that, you are supporting Summerville’s local businesses, and don’t forget the t-shirt you get after you succeed in filling out your bingo card.

Visit Summerville

Sweet Tea Festival Week and Hold My Tea Bar Crawl—Time to Get a New T-shirt

My “Hold My Tea Bar Crawl” t- shirt has gotten faded and worn since acquiring it last year, so it is time to get a new one. Sweet Tea Festival Week is near at hand. The bar crawl begins Monday the 16th and runs to Sunday the 22nd. The participating establishments have concocted their finest sweet tea cocktails and are ready for you to determine the best of the best, based upon your personal preferences and likes.

Summerville’s competing bars and restaurants are Hilton Garden Inn—Sweet Tea Mojito, Five Loaves Cafe—Flowertown Mojito, The Azalea Bar and Garden—Five Flowers, Frothy Beard Off World—InfiniTEA, Sweetwater One Twenty Three—Amaret-Tea, The IceHouse—Bubbly Bee Tea|, and Godwin’s Beer Hall—Shepard’s Shandy. Want to know each bartenders chosen mixtures, recipes are posted on social media and Visit Summerville web sight. You can download bingo cards off of Visit Summerville or at participating establishments.

As you savor the cocktails, ask your bartender or server to mark off your card with their initial. Mark 7 spaces in a row or diagonally during the week of the crawl. When you have decided on your favorite, cast your vote using the QR code on your Bingo card. Your vote will help decide the winner of the People's Choice Award, and you will get the middle square.

Trade in your completed card for a free bar crawl shirt at the Summerville Visitor Center or Cotton-Tea booth at the Sweet Tea Festival while supplies last.

Aside from winning you over, bartenders are also competing to win a Critic's Choice Award for their cocktails. Three judges, comprising mixologists and/or industry professionals, local people of interest, and culinary content creators have been appointed to evaluate the entries, considering factors such as taste, presentation, and originality. The real challenge of the competing mixologists in my estimation is not just to win your admiration and vote but to maintain the picture perfect cocktail as seen in the photo through the whole week.

A preview—Bubbly Bee Tea

Last year’s winner of the Critics Choice Award in the Sweet Tea Cocktail Contest was Azalea Bar and Garden’s “Porch Rocker” by Elizabeth Cureton. In the People’s Choice category, Lavender TEAse” by Laura Walling at Sweetwater One Twenty Three was the community’s favorite.

Join me for the fun. Send me a message where you plan on being and I will join you. I look forward to meeting you during the week. We will clang glasses and share Summerville stories, like the Summerville Light or The Phantom Flight Over Summerville. See you then.

As a reminder, be sure to attend the Southern Songwriter Festival Thursday, Sept 19 – Saturday, Sept 21. Over 40 different songwriters will perform at various venues throughout Historic Downtown Summerville. Featured stages, Songwriters Alley on Short Central and Headliner performance at Public Works Art Center with full set bands on Sweet Tea Festival day on Hutchinson Square Stage. Forty Mile Detour takes the stage at 2 pm.

If that is not enough, Summerville’s Historic Garden Stroll will take place September 21st at 9:30 am to 12:00 pm. It will begin with a sneak peek of the Azalea Park Children’s Discovery Garden to be completed in late Fall 2024. It will feature a variety of nature, music, and art-inspired pieces geared towards children. After, four nearby historic homes will open their beautiful private gardens to be toured by ticket holders. Live music, refreshments, and small bites will be available. Proceeds will benefit Leadership Dorchester Class of 2024 and garden project—$75. 

Summerville’s Sweet Tea Festival Week will be jam-packed with things to do. Hop on the Summerville festival wave and hang ten—slow and easy to savor the ride through the events. Cheers.

San Francisco Trip—The Emerald Blue Gem of the Sierra Nevadas, Lake Tahoe

Nestled in the tall mountains of California’s Sierra Nevada’s and Carson Range lies the emerald blue waters of Lake Tahoe. One would think it was formed by the sunken crater of an old volcano, but it was not. It’s formation is the result of tectonic plates rising and falling. It is over 1600 feet deep with an average surface temperature of 63 degrees. Its water is over 99.9 per cent pure, making it one of the purest water in the world. The lake is also home to a deep, dark secret.

The drive to Lake Tahoe on Highway 50E was stunning, where sheer cliffs, tall peaks, and tall pines surrounded the highway as I navigated the loops and turns along drop offs at the edges of the road. There were patches of burned forests of barren pine trees leftover from previous fires, leaving a black and grey stretch of tall, lifeless trunks and large rocks.

Elevation was 6000 feet as I neared South Lake Tahoe. First stop would be Emerald Bay State Park on the west shore of the lake at Emerald Bay Vista Point, another 1000 feet above the emerald blue waters of the secluded bay. From there, you can get a full view of the bay. In the middle of the bay was the only island on all of Lake Tahoe. A popular spot for boats, there were several cruising in and out of the narrow inlet and others anchored around the island taking in the splendor of the clear waters and mountain vista.

There were two trails to choose from that would take you down to the one beach on the bay, one a longer and more rugged trek than the other. I took the shorter one, which was a quicker way down called the Vikingsholm Castle Trail. It led to a 38-room rustic castle on the beach featuring Scandinavian architecture. A paddleboat was just leaving the beach—it brings people to the castle for tours. I took off my shoes and stepped into the refreshing water and after, continued on the trail to a waterfall with a bridge overlooking the cascading water.

It was time to move on and headed to South Lake Tahoe to check into my accommodations for the trip, which was just outside the town in the mountains overlooking the east shore—Ridge View Resort at 8000 feet elevation, a wintertime resort. My building overlooked the valley, a beautiful panoramic scene. My room was cozy with a comfortable single King bed for $183 a night, including amenities fee. The resort had everything to keep you amused, but I was only interested in the heated pool, both indoor and outdoor. After dinner, I would take the plunge. If there is water, I will be in it.

Margaritaville Resort was my choice for dinner. It was next to the casinos. I was on the Nevada side of Lake Tahoe. It was a beautiful resort with bright, crisp colors. Hey, it is Jimmy Buffet influenced and you could see the tropical theme throughout. The restaurant was JWB Prime Steak and Seafood, very classy. Drink choice was Caribbean Beach—pricey but well worth it since it had a kick to it—$22. The French Onion Soup was wonder good—$14. For the entree I picked the JWB Alpine Burger—Raclette Cheese, Caramelized Onions, Bacon, and Lettuce for $32, sizable portions and very good. Server was excellent. Very pleasant experience coupled with the resort’s cheerful ambiance.

Next day, headed up the east shore towards Inclined Village. Zephyr Cove and Castle Rock were points of interest. Stopped at Logan Shoals Vista Point to hike to the lake—rocky shoreline with huge boulders and crystal clear water. I looked for signs of bears such as paw prints and claw marks on trees. You never know where one will show up. Continued on to Sand Harbor—a popular beach area with kayak and paddleboard rentals. Stopped a few times for picture taking along Crystal Bay and arrived at Inclined Village, where I had a late lunch at Tunnel Creek Cafe—relaxed on its outdoor porch and enjoyed a Toasted Cheese Sandwich and Tomato Soup.

I was interested in seeing a bear before my visit would end and consulted a local who said the best place for that was on the Rainbow Trail off of Emerald Bay Drive, which was on the southeast side of the lake. It was a beautiful trail hike partly on a elevated wooden boardwalk that traversed over Taylor Creek and wetlands. The Kokanee salmon swim up this creek to spawn in the fall. Saw signs of bear but didn’t see any. It was now time to find a Starbucks for a refresher before hitting the road and leaving South Lake Tahoe.

Now, the deep, dark secret lurking in the lake’s deep, dark waters. Lake Tahoe has a story similar to Lock Ness in Scotland. The huge creature is called “Tessie.” The creature appears in Washoe Legend, and the first sighting was in the 19th century. It made headlines in the San Francisco Chronicle on July 12, 1984,  when it reported two women had seen the 17 foot leviathan surface three times, similar to a whale. Jacques Cousteau brought a mini-submarine to the lake and did several dives to its bottom. When he returned, it was alleged he said, “The world isn’t ready for what is down there.” This is one for Bill Shatner and The Unexplained or Josh Gates and Expedition Unknown.

Lake Tahoe is a shimmering emerald gem amongst the Sierra Nevadas. On its south shore, South Lake Tahoe has everything to make your stay enjoyable and comfortable. Shops, restaurants, and a host of top notch accommodations, and since part of it is in Nevada, gambling casinos. Summers are perfect for beach sunning, hiking, biking, boat tours, and outdoor concerts. As you circle the lake, there are an abundance of places to pull over and take pictures, trails to hike through the tall pines to its rocky shores, and various places to rent kayaks and paddleboards. Lake Tahoe is a vacation paradise for the adventurous.

The Ridge View

311 Tramway Drive

Stateliness, Nevada

Margaritaville Resort

4130 Lake Tahoe Boulevard

South Lake Tahoe, California

San Francisco Trip—Sam’s Chowder House in Half Moon Bay and Filoli Historic House and Gardens in Woodside

San Francisco was the number one destination with Conde Nash readers for many years, Charleston was number two. Then, there was a reversal in sentiment and Charleston took over the number one spot. It has remained the top favorite for years. I travel to San Francisco often. The views are stunning from almost any vantage point along the peninsula coast line and north to the Marin Headlands. There are a plethora of points of interests to enjoy both in and around the city traveling in all directions going across the magnificent Golden Gate Bridge, the busy Bay Bridge, and south along the beautiful Bay Area peninsula. This day, I headed to the Filoli Estate and Gardens in Woodside, but first stop was Half Moon Bay.

Half Moon Bay, the name itself is as inviting as it sounds. It is home to the pumpkin festival and the Mavericks. No, it has nothing to do with Top Gun or Tom Cruise. It is the name of the big waves that roll in from the Pacific to challenge the best of the surfing world. The town is very quaint with a Main Street lined with shops and eateries from its beginning to its end, and that is about everything. One huge wall is dedicated to the event with a huge wave and surfer painted on it. Sam’s Chowder House on the Pacific was my destination. Naked Ladies, not the fleshly kind—the pink flower kind, beautified the entrance to the quiet beach just below the restaurant.

Sam’s Chowder House was busy as usual. There is plenty of indoor seating, but outside is where you want to be for the best view. My table was just above the outdoor patio that is enclosed by glass partitions with heaters at each table. The marine mist that comes off the Pacific can have a cooling effect. For a drink, I chose a cherry mocktail($9.00), which was pleasantly refreshing. From the main courses, I selected the Fried Shrimp platter($25.95), which included a sizable portion of Old Bay fries. The shrimp were large and coated with a tasteful batter perfectly fried. The server was friendly, attentive, and informative. It was an excellent dinner experience.

Next stop, Filoli Historic House and Gardens—a sprawling estate nestled in a valley near the Crystal Spring Reservoir. The land was purchased in1914 for $89,000 by Agnes and William Bourn. The land is now worth 2.5 million. The 54,256 sq. ft. house was completed in 1917 at a cost of $425,000, now worth $11 million. It has 56 rooms, 17 fireplaces, 15 bathrooms, 14 staff bedrooms, and 10 main bedrooms. It was all paid for by gold mining money. The house is u-shaped with servant’s quarters in one wing and a ballroom in the other. The estate’s name is derived from the family’s personal motto—Fight for a just cause, Love your fellow man, Live a good life—Fi-Lo-Li.

The house was built 200 yards from the San Andreas fault line. It was constructed to withstand the California seismic upheavals with double-walled construction and a steel frame to support 17 ft ceilings. One bathroom has a 22 ft ceiling. So far, so good.

The houses spacious interior is filled with the original furnishings. A large kitchen serviced the family with smaller rooms for bread making and desserts. There was even a large safe in the main preparation area with a huge, black double oven stove. There was a room for anything and everything to keep the family and guests entertained. Music, gaming tables, billiards, TV watching, and a library for serious reading. Finally, the ballroom, to which visitors could not access due to renovations.

The gardens are extensive and magnificent with a massive variety of flower species and trees. It was a challenge to name the various flowers as you strolled the terraced sections, but having had flowered rock gardens of my own, I did exceptionally well. There was a glassed garden house facing a flowered lily pond where you could sit while conversing over afternoon tea and a building with a clock tower used as a gift shop and cafe today. For fun, there is a badminton court overlooking the gardens and a large pool surrounded by places to sun and relax. Its large open fields furnished with outdoor wooden Adirondack chairs are used for soaking in the landscape and stargazing after darkness shrouds the valley.

San Francisco, like Charleston, has beautiful beaches, lots of fascinating history, except on a larger scale, much larger. The coastline consists of sheer cliffs, massive rocks, tall mountain peaks, many long bridges, and much cooler water. The city has tall buildings and vertical streets, unlike sea level and below Charleston. It is surrounded by beautiful vistas and a plethora of points of interest to be enjoyed. Half Moon Bay and Filoli House and Gardens are two places I visited on this trip to San Francisco.

Sam’s Chowder House

4210 CA-1

Half Moon Bay

Filoli Historic House and Gardens

86 Canada Road

Woodside, CA