With rough tools, immense wooded swamps were cleared along the Ashley River. Next, massive hydrological systems such as dams, dikes, and floodgates called "trunks" were constructed to irrigate the newly developed fields. Then, the cherished grain was sown using a heel-toe dance and tirelessly cared for all the way to harvest. Working these fields was considered one of the deadliest occupations of the time. These were the proud plantation systems that reigned in the Lowcountry up until the American Civil War brought them to a crashing conclusion by fire and tempest. As time passed, the watery, golden topped green fields were slowly taken back by cattails and alligators.Rice plantations shaped and reshaped the Lowcountry geography and economy. It is not exactly known who brought the first rice to Carolina or under what particulars it arrived. The British backers of colonization, both financial and political, intended for Carolina, like other colonies, to fit into the mercantilist system--a political economy that sought to enrich the country by restraining imports and encouraging exports. To that end they suggested that settlers try a range of crops, rice among them.
Historians of South Carolina continue to argue over the introduction of Madagascar gold seed rice, which doubtfully authentic, although widely circulated as being true, came via Captain John Thurber's ship in 1685. Scholars have all but definitively shown that Carolinians grew white rice in the seventeenth century with gold rice being introduced after the American Revolution. Regardless of the circumstances of rice’s introduction, colonists successfully grew small amounts of the grain in the Charlestown colony by 1690. By 1712, Carolinians not only produced rice for local consumption; they had begun exporting the excess to England. Through Carolina gold, Charleston became one of the richest cities in the world.
Today, Magnolia Plantation is a caretaker of one of those stories. Originally consisting of about 1872 acres, all but 390 acres were sold off after the Civil War's devastation. Of the remaining 390 acres, 25 acres are devoted to the gardens of John Grimké Drayton, 16 acres for the wide lawn surrounding the live oak allée, and 150 acres for a marsh and water fowl conservatory. Since 1941, about 199 acres have been used for a wholesale ornamental plant nursery to raise money for garden operations.
The old flooded rice field, part of the 150 acres, was dredged to a depth of 6 to 8 feet along its perimeters to make way for a system of canals for a boat tour that runs along the edges of the Ashley River--the average depth of a rice field is 2-3 feet deep.
The guide explains the plantation culture and history behind the area as you get an up-close look at the wildlife that calls this peaceful sanctuary home. I saw white egrets catching fish from the cattails right at the side of the boat while alligators of various sizes sunned on the islands and edges. I saw about twenty alligators.
I learned about the anhinga. You often see these birds standing with their wings out-stretched when they are not in the water. Their feathers don't produce oil, as a result, water does not run off, so, they let the sun and wind dry out their water-soaked wings. Since their feathers soak in the water, they are expert divers. It is a balanced trade-off.
Then, there is the Great Blue Heron, a beautiful and majestic avian with long legs and long necks and stands over 4 feet tall. When it takes off, you can feel the rush of compressing pressure as its powerful wings slap the air.
When I arrived at the kiosk at the start of my quest, my interest was to only do the Rice Field Boat Tour since I had never done it before, but I found out you have to buy the $20 admission ticket for the garden walk in order to do the boat tour.
After walking the beautiful gardens, the boat tour offers a most welcoming and relaxing respite while you sit onboard one of two pontoon boats decked out with very comfortable seats and plenty of standing room for viewing the wildly preserved ecosystem. The narration by the naturalist captain was informative and sprinkled with some light humor--questions and comments were encouraged. The breezes coming off the Ashley River were refreshing and the quiet float on the canal uplifting. It is well worth the extra $8 ticket. Children under 6 are free.
