Candlelight Tours of Drayton Hall In Charleston--Affords You the Opportunity to See the Estate in a Different Light

Everything looks different in the fading light of the setting sun. The colors of the day melt away as they give way to the intruding darkness washing over the surrounding landscape like a rogue wave. Once upon a time sleeping shadows come to life, energized by any light source nearby. In the changed aura, one's imagination becomes more sensitive. Drayton Hall's Candlelight Tour does exactly all that. It allows you to see the old Ashley River estate and its impressive house in a different shade of light.

Originally a fruit orchard, Drayton Hall was built somewhere around 1738, thus making it over 285 years old. Considered one of the earliest and finest examples of Georgian-Palladian architecture in the United States, it is part of the most significant, undisturbed historic landscapes in North America.

Inside, the timeless wood and plaster carvings give testimony to the artful skills of the master craftsman of the day and the soul of its owners. The house is a surviving relic for us to look at with curiosity and wonderment. For the people in its beginning, every nuance incorporated into its design had a special meaning.

Drayton Hall is unquestionably not without its mysteries, both surreal and real. The most recent and famous occurred in 2007 when one of its staff members received an anonymous package containing the photograph of a watercolor painting of Drayton Hall purported to be date back to 1765.

The tour began at the Visitor Center, where Rosemary, our guide, talked about the Drayton Hall Preservation Trust's mission, which is to foster a deeper understanding of colonial America and the evolution of life in the South by discovering, researching, conserving, and interpreting the history, context, and culture of Drayton Hall.

Next, we were led to a graveled circle under some of the estate's oldest trees. The guide suggested we should consider not standing there too long for safety reasons and insurance liability. The old trees have lost some huge limbs over the years unexpectedly. Then, pointing to the land across from Drayton Hall on the other side of the Ashley River, which a generous supporter recently donated to the Trust, she related how the acquisition ensures that future generations will enjoy the same majestic view we see today.

The house was by this time covered in darkness, with only flickering candles lighting the way. We all stood at the iron gate at the lowest level of the house. The ornate wrought iron gate was the work of Charleston's Philip Simmons, a black gentleman who had a close working relationship with the Drayton family. We stepped into the large space. It had a stone floor throughout, a large fireplace, and a table with artifacts. The guide told stories about the relationship between the Drayton family and the house workers. We exited through the gate we entered and ascended the house's steps to the dramatic portico and the main entrance. From here, I will let the pictures tell the story.

The Candlelight Tour of Drayton Hall was a surreal trip back in time bathed in the light of a flickering candle. Our tour guide, a petite lady with a big smile and a sophisticated knack for delivering an entertaining narrative, was personable, engaging, and knowledgeable about the Drayton story. She personally addressed each individual in the group as if she was having a one-on-one conversation. She made each narrative come to life.

Walking through the richly decorated rooms of the house in the soft cadmium hue of candlelight gave you a unique perspective of its aged and timeless beauty. You experience the look and feel of the residence the way the people of its beginning years would have before there was electricity, which by the way, continues to be the case.

Photographs by Anne-Merle Bryant

$50 members/$55 non-members per person

3380 Ashley River Road, Charleston, SC

Victor's Seafood and Steak and 39 Rue De Jean--The Perfect Pairing for a Night of Celebrating Life

Two restaurants in close proximity to one another in one of the busiest areas of mid-Upper Charleston made for a perfect night. One was chosen for its signature cocktails and sky-high bar space accented by a dramatic piece of art, and the other for its French name and diverse menu. Hutson Alley's Victor's Seafood and Steak and 39 Rue De Jean were the model pairing for an evening of celebrating life.

Victor's Seafood and Steak was once known as Victor's Social Club. Its centerpiece bar dominates a richly decorated two-story interior awash with shades of whites and blacks and radiating a look of pure elegance. A life-size John Doyle painting of a Blue Marlon hovering over a boat towered over the room's bar seating. It offers signature cocktails, including a selection of barrel-aged cocktails, beer, wine, and walls lined with fish paintings and intimate seating for two under each art piece. The restaurant's refined dining room features plush booths, antique wares, and wildlife scenes.

We took a seat at the bar where two well-spoken and mannerly young men dressed in black and wearing spectator shoes patiently awaited our drink selections. After a few questions about the unusual drink names on the menu and helpful answers, I chose a potent cocktail called Midnight in Paris--a concoction of Still Vanilla, Lavender Simple Syrup, and Lemon. There was no skimping on the alcohol. My accomplice for the night chose the ExPresso Martini topped off by three brandy-soaked cherries threaded on a silver hairpin stick and described her perfect drink as smooth with a rich froth that mimicked a fine Bailey's Irish Creme. The experience was an exquisite beginning to the evening.

Our next pre-chosen stop was a short stroll from Victor's, a refined French Cafe and Bar reminiscent of a late 1800s Brasserie called 39 Rue De Jean. And why not, since after indulging in the earlier Midnight in Paris.

We were seated at a small table set for two. Our server was an accommodating, ready-to-take-on the world College of Charleston student. After relating a story of a recent dating experience, the young gentleman took our orders.

I selected the Truffle Potato Soup made with Creamy Potato Puree, Truffle Infusion, and Chive Cream Fraiche for $11 and the Traditional Caesar Salad for $9. My entree selection was the same as my companion, the Shrimp Provencal--Sauteed Shrimp, House Pasta, Pernod Garlic, Butter Sauce, and Red Pepper Chili Flakes for $26.

The Truffle Potato Soup was magnifique, as was the Traditional Caesar Salad. The generous, and I mean generous portion, of Shrimp Provencal was superbly garlicky.

39 Rue De Jean lived up to its reputation as a restaurant with good food and service. A little on the noisy side, but that is because it was packed with a boisterous crowd of loyal, hungry patrons. Even though just there for cocktails, Victor's Seafood and Steak was my favorite of the night. The quiet atmosphere was good for light conversation, the drinks were gratifying, and the bartenders were entertaining both in dress and persona. I will return to experience the restaurant's dining menu.

Victor's Seafood and Steak, 39F John St, Charleston, SC

39 Rue De Jean, 39 John St, Charleston, SC

2022 New Year's Eve Dinner Cruise Aboard the Spirit of Carolina--Rocking the Boat

High above the Cooper River, the fog hung eerily over the peaks of the Ravenel Bridge spires, muting its lights to a soft, bluish glow. Below, an aura of orange and shades of grey emanating from the mist-shrouded lights on the Charleston waterfront across the way encompassed the impressive Yorktown. Currently fastened to the pier, The Spirit of Carolina subtly rocked in the inky waters of the marina. New Year's Eve 2022 was nearing a celebratory end. Dinner cruise patrons filed in twos arm and arm towards the boat's gangplank, anticipating a night of elegance wrapped in a napkin of catering.

The unique opportunity to celebrate in style with incredible food while taking in sweeping views of the historic Charleston skyline was on the agenda. It would be the best Charleston has to offer while cruising aboard the elegantly decorated Spirit of Carolina and enjoying the music played by DJ Michael Hart, as the advertisement stated.

Upon boarding the boat, crew members directed us to our seating arrangements in the dining lounges. Our party of four had the best table on the deck, situated by a large window at the beginning of the line of tables along the perimeter of the ship's dining area. One slight negative, we were positioned right under a speaker, which made conversation somewhat challenging when the music began. Other than that tiny detail, the table's appointments were neatly presented with water and wine glasses and a complete set of silverware containing more forks than I knew what to do with.

Our server arrived--a polite, soft-spoken young lady with a big smile. First on the menu were drink selections. My beautiful and stunningly dressed partner chose a Benvolio Pinot Grigio from Italy for $8.00. I initially chose an Edna Valley Sauvignon Blanc from the Central Coast, but due to a mix-up wound up with an Elovan Pinot Noir from Oregon for $12.00, which was alright because I generally choose Noirs when drinking wine. Our company and fellow celebrants, a Charlestonian gentleman and a dazzling lady dressed in black sequin, selected from the list of reds.

From the dinner's four entrees, my partner selected the ROASTED SLICED CAULIFLOWER--Roasted Red Pepper, Drizzle Wilted Spinach, Lemon, and Olive Oil Mixed Ancient Grains of Quinoa, Farro Toasted Barley, and Grilled Asparagus. I chose the SEARED WING TIP CHICKEN BREAST--White Wine Lemon Sauce, Sauteed Spinach, Feta Cheese Fillings, and Roasted Garlic Whipped Potatoes along with Seasonal Vegetables.

Our friends picked the BRAISED SHORT RIB OF BEEF with Cabernet Reduction Roasted Garlic Whipped Potatoes with Seasonal Vegetables and the SEARED WING TIP CHICKEN BREAST. We all passed on the fourth offering, LOW COUNTRY SHRIMP and GRITS.

Dessert choices were a NY STYLE CHEESECAKE topped with Strawberries and Whipped Cream or a CHOCOLATE POT DE CRÈME covered with Whipped Cream and Chocolate Shavings. We picked the NY STYLE CHEESECAKE, while our friends decided to go for the full monty.

The SEARED WING TIP CHICKEN BREAST was satisfying, but a potato lover, the Roasted Garlic Whipped Potatoes hit the spot for me. Between the veggies, the EDISTO GREEN SALAD Blended with Baby Lettuce, Dried Cranberries, Crumbled Feta Cheese, and Toasted Almonds with Herb Vinaigrette was better than the sparse portion of veggies with my entree. The ROASTED SLICED CAULIFLOWER lacked color presentation, which would have added to its appeal, and was a bit on the bland side.

That being said, the CHARLESTON SHE CRAB SOUP, by my estimation, took top honors with its pleasant dose of spiciness, which was confirmed by my partner. The finale was a complimentary Glass of Prosecco delivered to the table. It didn't float my boat--a bit too sweet for my liking. However, I am sure the majority enjoyed it.

We spent most of the evening conversing and didn't get topside the whole evening. The large window was perfect for seeing the Charleston waterfront and spotting its landmarks from Patriots Point to the Ashley River, from James Island to the Ravenel Bridge, and back to the marina. We did light up the dance floor with our impressive moves for a few tunes.

All in all, it was a relaxing evening sharing the company of good friends and engaging in light conversation while cruising the historic waters of Charleston Harbor. For the price per person of $119, the boat ride was great, but I would like to have seen some fireworks, entrees included. Mother Nature cooperated with a mystifying fog that set a tantalizing mood of quiet reverence. You never know what lies hidden in its misty shadows, as in an old Sherlock Holmes movie. Holmes is still searching for clues as to what happened to the cruise photographs.

The cruise departed from Patriots Point at 40 Patriots Point Road, Mt. Pleasant, SC. Boarding time began at 6:30 pm. Cruise time was from 7:00 pm to 10:00 pm.

The 9th Annual Bill Murray Look-a-Like Polar Bear Plunge and Costume Contest for 2023

To many Charlestonians, Bill Murray is an iconic figure who is larger than life. Due to his past shenanigans, they often wait in expectation of a possible, surprise appearance at any given time by the charismatic movie star. This is true of the yearly Bill Murray Polar Bear Plunge held New Years day at the Tides on Folly Beach. People young and old dress up as Bill Murray characters--or just about any outlandish costume a creative mind can conceive--to take the plunge into the Atlantic waters. All the years I have attended the plunge, Bill Murray has remained a no-show, However, attendees still hope for the best that this could be the year.

The 9th Annual Bill Murray Look-a-Like Polar Bear Plunge and Costume Contest for 2023 was a crazy success once again. The beach in front of the Tides next to the newly completed folly Pier was packed with eager participants along with wary on-lookers with cell phone and cameras in hand to experience and capture the billfoolery only Murray could inspire.

Afterwards, the festivities continued with bands rockin' the many restaurants and bars of downtown Folly Beach. The Shakin' Martinis was one of those bands we came across walking Center Street performing at The Crab Shack.

Enjoy the video, it tells the whole story. You just may spot yours truly cavorting on the sands with the wacky and wild Murray wannabes.

Pictures and videos by Anne-Merle Bryant.

Coastal Expeditions' Shark Tooth Beach Drop on Big Crab Bank Island in Charleston Harbor--A Hunt of Fun

Shark teeth are a highly sought-after relic of the past. Like the gold rush days of the West, where miners sifted streams for the king of nuggets, shark teeth hunters sort through the tidal deposits of the barrier island beaches of Charleston in search of the mother load of shark teeth, the teeth of the Megalodon.

There are several shark teeth tours offered in Charleston by different outfitters. We chose Coastal Expeditions' Shark Tooth Beach Drop, scheduled from October 16 to March 14. The tour's destination is a man made island in Charleston Harbor called Big Crab Bank Island, formed by the dredging of the harbor. This tour is not to be confused with the Morris Island Shark Tooth Beach Drop offered beginning March 15. A mistake I made. I should have read the details that this was a trip to Shark Tooth Island, a.k.a. Big Crab Bank Island.

Coastal Expeditions' Coast Guard-certified vessel for this tour departs from their Shem Creek location. Bottlenose dolphins and Eastern brown pelicans are present to be seen as the vessel heads down Shem Creek and out into Charleston Harbor past Small Crab Bank Island. On the morning of our tour, there were no dolphins in the creek, and the pelicans were sparse, but numerous other species of birds were spotted and named by the naturalist. It is just the nature of wildlife viewing. It can be hit or miss. Wildlife makes no promises and do what they do at their leisure.

 

You will enjoy views of the downtown skyline, Ravenel Bridge, Fort Sumter, and other iconic landmarks on the trip to the island. After reaching the island, we departed directly onto the beach by way of a plank extended from the boat with the assistance of Coastal Expeditions' naturalist. He did not join the group on the hunt. I do not know if he gave any instructions to anyone on how to spot fossils in the sand.

Once on the beach, we left the group and began our search, as did most everyone else. Most of the island is a bird sanctuary. You are not allowed in those sections. The tidal deposits of tiny shells and other ocean debris were sparse and scattered across the beach. It wasn't long after starting the hunt my companion found our first shark tooth. She had the keener eye. It was strange how a fair number of clamshell bits and pieces are shaped like a shark's tooth, often fooling you into thinking you spotted one.

The majority of the group's finds were small. The chances of finding a Megalodon tooth are slim to none on Big Crab Bank Island, but not impossible. What comes to shore is dependent on the rising and falling tides. We found 10 in all, with the largest about one and a quarter inches. Other finds included interesting shells and bones.

The boat ride is relaxing. The narrative by the captain and naturalist was informative. The hunt takes patience and a keen eye. The walk on the beach the day of our trip, in the warm Charleston sun for a December day, was pleasant. The tour duration was 3 hours, which included a 30-min boat eco-tour each way. The price is $65 for adults and children 12 and under $40.

Shem Creek Flagship, 514 Mill Street, Mount Pleasant, SC

Meeting at Market in Charleston Place--An Upscale Pub That has It All

Charleston, like many cities meandering in the stream of time, has both tragically suffered and joyously celebrated through changes inflicted on it by forces beyond its control. Through the upheavals, the city has licked its wounds and rebounded.

Time, the most unrelenting of the forces, mercilessly moves in only one direction. Either the city planners seize upon the opportunistic moment or suffer ending up being a "decaying American city, a poisoned ecosystem." Joe Riley, mayor of Charleston, unflatteringly characterized the downtown district by those phrases and then, seized the moment. Charleston Place rose from a huge, sandy lot where a JC Penney once stood. The Holy City celebrated a rebirth to become what it is today.

Built in 1986, Charleston Place was the catalyst for Charleston's revival and resurgence as a world-class travel destination--voted the most popular destination in the nation to visit.. Its historic hotel along with its restaurants, cocktail lounge, spa, and retail shops created jobs and won the hearts of locals, vacationers, corporate travelers, meeting planners, and wedding planners alike.

Located inside Charleston Place and at the corner of one of the city's busiest intersections sits an upscale pub called Meeting at Market. With floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the historic City Market, the pub offers a sophisticated yet relaxed viewing environment with 22 flat-screen televisions, cozy banquettes, and high-top tables. 

Its menu includes 20 rotating craft beers complimented by elevated bar fares like Duck Confit Sliders and Truffle Chicken Salad. Its menu offers good grilled bacon, Caesar salads, and blue cheese. Tasty bread pudding, fruitcake and crème brûlée declared their best dishes. It is known for its superior service, which my companion and I can attest to after our visit during our Second Sunday walk on King Street.

My culinary appetite was in the mood for simple fare, so I chose Grilled Cheese made with Sharp Cheddar and Mozzarella Cheese, Bacon Jam, and Tomato($15) with a side of French Fries($8). The fries were the best I have tasted, perfectly crisp. The Grilled Cheese was simply satisfying. My companion, who is a no-nonsense lady, chose Market Fall Salad with Mesclun, Butternut Squash, Craisins, Red Onion, Toasted Pecans, Goat Cheese, and Maple Mustard Vinaigrette($15), and declared it to be awesome. For drinks, I chose a glass of Rickshaw Pinot Noir($11) and my companion chose Scarpetta Pinot Grigio($13).

A highlight of our visit, aside from the food, was our server. She showed patience while awaiting our choices, catered to all our questions and requests, and willingly engaged us in light conversation. We spent a considerable amount of time in conversation while enjoying our view through the restaurant's spacious windows of the Meeting and Market Street intersection as visitors and locals shuffled past with cell phones and packages in their hands. It was like watching a living diorama.

Meeting at Market is the perfect place to take a break from whatever you are doing on your visit to the downtown district of the King and Meeting Street area around and in Charleston Place. The prices were very reasonable for the upscale atmosphere of what is referred to as a pub. The food was well-proportioned and artfully presented. The service was impeccably tasteful, like its food. If you haven't already, give it a try. If you have, a second visit is warranted.

Monday - Friday 12pm - 11pm

Saturday and Sunday 11am - 11pm

120 Market St, Charleston, SC

Photographs by Anne-Merle Bryant