South Carolina Waters Expedition 2--Four Holes Swamp, Francis Beidler Forest

South Carolina Waters Expedition 2 took the team into the interior of South Carolina to a place called Four Holes Swamp--a dark tannin-stained slow-flowing river swamp known as a blackwater swamp and a tributary to the Edisto River. Thousand-year-old trees and native wildlife abound in this pristine sanctuary. There are over 70 species of reptiles and amphibians and 140 species of birds have been reported. As a bird watching photographer, you can really spread your wings.

Located in the heart of the Lowcountry between Columbia and Charleston, Four Holes Swamp is a 45,000-acre matrix of sloughs and lakes. It contains 18,000 acres of the largest remaining stand of virgin bald cypress and tupelo gum swamp forest remaining anywhere in the world. These wetlands are also home to the dwarf trillium (Trillium pusillum)--a rare flower found only in South Carolina at Four Holes Swamp.

Within Four Holes Swamp is the 15,000 acre National Audubon Society's Francis Beidler Forest where an educational center and a 1.75 mile self-guided boardwalk trail are located. The expedition team rendezvoused at the visitor center where we linked up with Mark Musselman, the Land Manager in Four Holes Swamp. Mark accompanied us on our trek over the boardwalk to Goodson Lake. Along the way, he shared with us his extensive knowledge of the swamp and with a sharp eye, pointed out the unique features of the swamp and its camouflaged wildlife--mostly the serpentine kind.

The launching point for the team's Trident was a two story observation deck deep within the swamp. Dave Eslinger unpacked the ROV and made the necessary connections. It wasn't long before our unusual activity drew the attention of curious visitors to the swamp, one of them being an inquisitive little girl with a boat load of questions, but Dave, a very personable individual, was willing to accommodate, thus fulfilling a primary objective of the team's explorations--to raise public awareness and appreciation for South Carolina's most cherished assets, its waterways and coastal estuaries, especially with the young.

The midday temperature was in the high 50's with only a slight breeze shuffling the branches of the surrounding ancient trees. With the overhead canopy open at this time of year, the sun shined through the upper branches onto the lower vegetation and the countless fallen trees strewn about in the dark waters. Not to far away, a nine foot alligator passively soaked in what sunshine was being made available to it. The ROV was launched into the black tea colored waters and it wasn't long before we were confronted with the complexity of the underwater world of the swamp.

As the Trident cruised along under the water taking some stunning video, the ROV's tether inevitably became entangled around the numerous submerged fallen logs and branches. Unable to get the ROV to surface, the unavoidable now faced the team--someone was going get "swamped today" and enter the 50-some degree water to retrieve the entrapped ROV, and that person was our pertinacious team leader. Stripped down to his undershorts, Dave entered the stimulating 8-foot deep water and after several attempts, successfully rescued the valuable Trident.


Unlike the clear, aqua blue waters of the tropics and coral reefs of the Caribbean, South Carolina's waters offer a greater challenge to operate an ROV in. Each expedition logistically teaches us something new, preparing us for the challenges to come on future expeditions.

Highlight: If you watch the underwater video very carefully you will see the ancient predator fish called a bowfin.


South Carolina Waters
National Geographic Open Explorer
S.E.E. Initiative

Team member Rick Olson kayaking Four Holes Swamp.

Kayaking the Restless Edisto River With Edisto River Adventures--Excursion Number 3 In The Series

This time of year one never knows what kind of weather will greet them on the rise of each day's sun, and this day was no different. It was a brisk morning for kayaking on the longest free-flowing blackwater river in the nation with Edisto River Adventures and a hardy group of about 25 paddlers. An eight mile excursion on flood level waters, it was anything but a lazy trek down the ever restless Edisto.

The excursion participants met in Colleton State Park where hosts Earl and Julie of Edisto River Adventures greeted us with warm smiles and introductions were exchanged. Our group of five feasted on a breakfast package consisting of a cheese, bacon, and egg sandwich with an assortment of fruit provided by Brad Mallett of Coastal Coffee Roasters.

From there we drove to the launching point at Minnie Gruber Rumph Landing, unloaded the kayaks, and transported vehicles to the end point, Mars Old Field Landing. While we awaited the drivers return, we familiarized ourselves with fellow kayakers and shared some light chit-chat. After the drivers were shuttled back, our host guides shared important safety tips and instructions on what to do in case someone should happen to overturn in the fast moving, cool waters. Then, one by one we entered the river.

The current was tenacious and unyielding as we brushed past fallen trees and submerged obstacles. Although the natural colors of the surrounding vegetation were muted due to the overcast January sky, our brightly colored kayaks were unmistakably conspicuous navigating the twists and turns. Except for three vultures, the typical wildlife was eerily missing, perhaps tucked away for the moment in warmer fringes. A tranquil hush enveloped us like the low hanging branches we passed closely under in the narrow wooded corridors of an adjacent swamp called Indian Field. The scenery through the largest old-growth stands of tupelo-cypress in America was splendidly alluring from start to finish.

This is just one of a series of six paddles called Discover the Edisto River Canoe and Kayak Trail featured by Edisto River Adventures, each beginning where the other one left off. This was number 3. Sign in was at 7:30 am. If you need a kayak, rentals are $45. If you have your own, a donation of $10 is accepted to offset shuttle expense, for the entire series. I highly recommend you join us for the next paddle in the series.



Edisto River Adventures is a full service outfitter with kayak trips, tube trips, paddleboarding, camping, and guide services. Owners, Earl and Julie, are hospitable and accommodating. Their knowledge of the river is indispensable and vast. Their staff, Mary Bell and their son, are helpful and always available to assist you in whatever you need from the excursion's start to finish.

Edisto River Adventures' outpost is located approximately 2 miles down river from Givhans State Park at 153 Gator Walk Rd, Ridgeville. Contact number is 843-695-8146.