A Paddle on One of Charleston's Premiere Waterfront Meccas--Shem Creek

I waited my turn at the Shem Creek Boat Landing to slip into the creek's liquid embrace either coming or going at a steady flow--depending on the tide--along and through the edges of its green-framed space. In all the years I have traveled its undeviating currents, I have never once seen its smooth-skinned submariner breaking the water's surface on the quieter side of the Coleman Blvd bridge. I wonder if before the oyster-covered concrete columns were sunk into the mucky bottom of its murky waters, whether that capricious observation were unerring. I could ask the brown pelican, but truth be told, I have never really heard them make a sound. The feathered fisherman most likely would only silently give me a vertical nod with a stiff upper beak.

Once you pass through the bridge's shadow to the Charleston Harbor side, the scene of grass-lined waters transforms to an unbroken stretch of sundrenched, weatherworn wooden docks, waterfront restaurants, and a variety of gas-powered watercraft of all sizes jockeying for an ideal place to disembark their thirsty and hungry passengers. Boisterous conversation and music popping like shrimp in shallow waters fills the salty air. Take your pick, the long list includes Tavern and Table, Red's Ice House, Water's Edge, Sunsets, Saltwater Cowboys, Vickery's Bar and Grill, and if you are feeling venturesome, the audacious eatery called The Wreck of the Richard and Charlene. The Wreck has been on the creek for over 30 years, recently on Netflix's popular show Outer Banks. Red's Ice House remains my favorite for an after-paddle beer and Saltwater Cowboys for a roof top Island Mule.

Along this stretch of the creek, I pause my paddle to linger and soak in the energized atmosphere. If it is a Sunday afternoon, I will ease my paddleboard up to the dock of Saltwater Cowboys to enjoy the tunes of the band playing on its outdoor deck. Flocks of pelicans gather to feast on the fish scraps tossed into the water from charter and local fishermen's catch of the day. I soon find myself surrounded by a group of dolphins arching above the creek's surface. They have come to join the party. Meantime, one of the waterway's resident oddities, the traveling tiki bar, comes into view. Maybe, I can coax them to toss me an icy beer to counterbalance the hot southern sun and humidity.

Moving on, the scene changes from restaurants and taverns to the thick steel and tall nets of the mighty shrimper fleet that makes the creek its home base. I find myself amused by the names painted on their hulls and sterns, such as Tuff-e-Nuff, The Hagg, Family Thing, Miss Paula, Carolina Breeze, Winds of Fortune, Richardson Bros II, Magwood's Pride, and the not so unusual and dignified, Bridget.

Passing Vickery's, the pillars and rails of an elevated boardwalk rises up where the water mingles with the spartina grass of Shem Creek's expansive marsh. If it is low tide, you will see white egrets and herons prowling the shallows along its grassy edges. Sightseers and tourists with cameras in hand traverse its planks for a better view of the creek and Charleston skyline. In the distance, the spires of the famous Ravenel Bridge towers over the marshscape. SUPers and kayakers attempt to dodge the fishing lines of locals trailing down from above as boats coming and going cruise past, occasionally followed by the whoosh of a graceful, low gliding pelican, so low you could almost see the tips of its wings gently graze the water's surface.

Continuing on, I paddle past the covered ending to the boardwalk and Hadrian's Point, where the creek finally opens into the spacious stretch of water leading to Crab Bank Island and the Charleston Harbor beyond--to the left, Sullivan's Island and Fort Sumter, to the right, Patriot's Point and Charleston Harbor Resort. It is here I stretch my legs over the side of my paddleboard with my feet barely touching the water, lean back, and let the currents and wind take over as I soak in the wonder of it all.

Points of interest:

1) During its history, Shem Creek has been known by many names. The original Sewee inhabitants called it shemmee, but what the word exactly meant is unknown. After the arrival of the English, the creek's name depended on who owned its surrounding land. It was Sullivan's Creek, Dearsley Creek, Rowser's Creek, Lempriere's Creek, and a short time, Distillery Creek. During the time no one had claim of the lands around the creek, it was always referred to as Shem Creek.

 

2) Shem Creek's first restaurant was called Lorelei Seafood Restaurant. It was located where the Shem Creek Inn stands today. It was known for a mural on its dining room wall entitled "The Song of the Lorelei," depicting the mythical siren whose enchanting song lured homesick sailors into the ocean's depths.

The Palmetto Breeze--Soak in the Intoxicating Ambience of the Charleston Harbor

Thunderstorms were scattered about the Charleston area but the Harbor around Mt. Pleasant's popular waterside mecca of watering holes at Shem Creek was luckily spared and basking in a moisture-rich late afternoon sun. Departure time had arrived.

With a full compliment of passengers, the catamaran's crew loosened the moorings and it eased away from the dock into the gentle out-going current. The age-diverse crowd of passengers gave out cheers of approval. We waved to the patrons lining the weatherworn rails along the waters edge of Tavern and Table and Red's Ice House as they gave us a Titanic send off. The party was now officially underway.

While navigating the narrow waters around recreational crafts of all sizes, the captain introduced himself and shouted out some pertinent instructions. It was Firefly Friday. Complimentary glasses of a Firefly Vodka laced drink were passed out. We crossed glasses and caught a glimpse of a shrimper dancing to some island music as our vessel passed-by. The bird sanctuary called Crab Bank Island came into view and the open waters of Charleston Harbor spread before us like a sparkling glass of wine. The sails were unfurled and the stimulating harbor breeze softly embraced our host, the Palmetto Breeze.

The Palmetto Breeze was built in Charleston and is the largest capacity catamaran north of Ft. Lauderdale accommodating 100 passengers plus crew. It featured a spacious wooden deck and covered seating by the bar with elevated seating across the back. In the front of the catamaran under the jib sail, three rows of eight leg-less chairs each were set up across the deck. If you were among the first to board, you had the ideal option of choosing one of these chairs. They were actually very comfortable and afforded a great view.

There was by far more passengers than there was seating. Most of the passengers, which consisted of families, couples, and one bachelorette party, sat wherever it was convenient or stood along the roped edges.

With the Ravenel Bridge towering over Patriots Point and the Yorktown in the near distance, the Breeze crossed the harbor waters passed Castle Pinckney toward White Point Gardens and sailed along the waterfront from the Battery to the South Carolina Aquarium.

The earlier storms had moved out of the area and through breaks in the slow moving marine blue clouds, the descending sun afforded some beautiful shots. Passing the port docks, next was the Ravenel Bridge where the Breeze briefly lingered under the soaring cabled-spires and then made the turn towards the Yorktown and Patriots Point. By then, the near-full moon had made its appearance, adding to the splendor of the darkening azure skies.

Finally, after four glasses of Firefly and one glass of wine, it was time to head back to port. The sun had disappeared below the clouds and the fading Charleston horizon. There was no mistaking Shem Creek. It was colorfully lit like a theater marquee--resplendent.

The harbor tour aboard the Palmetto Breeze is well worth the ticket. It was comfortable, it was relaxing, and it was enjoyably fun. There is no narrative. History is not on the agenda. It is all about soaking in the romance of the Charleston Harbor ambiance--salt water, ocean breezes, and the unrivaled, beautiful waterfront of Charleston. Firefly Vodka was complimentary. Water and soft drinks were provided along with a cash bar as refreshments.

April-October, reserve your ticket at Palmetto Breeze Schedule.

The Firefly Friday cruise is no longer available. It has been replaced with the Pure Gold Friday Sunset cruise which includes wine and beer products. The following list is available cruises, times, and prices.

Sunday Funday at 3 pm for $25 - $35

Mermaid Monday at 7 pm for $30 - $40

Tribute Tuesday Charity Sail benefitting lowcountryfoodbank.org at 7 pm for $25 - $35

Windsday Harbor Sail beverages included at 7 pm for $45

Pure Gold Friday Sunset at 7 pm for $30 - $40

Saturday Afternoon Charleston Harbor Sail at 4 pm for $25 - $35

Harbor Dolphin Sunset Saturday at 7 pm for $30 - $40

Firefly Friday Aboard The Palmetto Breeze--Intoxicating

Thunderstorms were scattered about the Charleston area but the Harbor around Mt. Pleasant's popular waterside mecca of watering holes at Shem Creek was luckily spared and was basking in a moisture-rich late afternoon sun. Departure time had arrived.

With a full compliment of passengers, the catamaran's crew loosened the moorings and it eased away from the dock into the gentle out-going current. The age-diverse crowd of passengers gave out cheers of approval. We waved to the patrons lining the weatherworn rails along the waters edge of Red's Ice House as they gave us a Titanic send off. The party was now officially underway.

While navigating the narrow waters around recreational crafts of all sizes, the captain introduced himself and shouted out some pertinent instructions. It was Firefly Friday. Complimentary glasses of a Firefly Vodka laced drink were passed out. We crossed glasses and caught a glimpse of a shrimper dancing to some island music as our vessel passed-by. The bird sanctuary called Crab Bank Island came into view and the open waters of Charleston Harbor spread before us like a sparkling glass of Firefly Vodka. The sails were unfurled and the stimulating harbor breeze softly embraced our host, the Palmetto Breeze.

The Palmetto Breeze was built in Charleston and is the largest capacity catamaran north of Ft. Lauderdale accommodating 100 passengers plus crew. It featured a spacious wooden deck and covered seating by the bar with elevated seating across the back. In the front of the catamaran under the jib sail, three rows of eight leg-less chairs each were set up across the deck. If you were among the first to board, you had the ideal option of choosing one of these chairs. They were actually very comfortable and afforded a great view.

There was by far more passengers than there was seating. Most of the passengers, which consisted of families, couples, and one bachelorette party, sat wherever it was convenient or stood along the roped edges.

With the Ravenel Bridge towering over Patriots Point and the Yorktown in the near distance, the Breeze crossed the harbor waters passed Castle Pinckney toward White Point Gardens and sailed along the waterfront from the Battery to the South Carolina Aquarium.

The earlier storms had moved out of the area and through breaks in the slow moving marine blue clouds, the descending sun afforded some beautiful shots. Passing the port docks, next was the Ravenel Bridge where the Breeze briefly lingered under the soaring cabled-spires and then made the turn towards the Yorktown and Patriots Point. By then, the near-full moon had made its appearance, adding to the splendor of the darkening azure skies.

Finally, after four glasses of Firefly and one glass of wine, it was time to head back to port. The sun had disappeared below the clouds and the fading Charleston horizon. There was no mistaking Shem Creek. It was colorfully lit like a theater marquee--resplendent.

The harbor tour aboard the Palmetto Breeze is well worth the $35 ticket. It was comfortable, it was relaxing, and it was enjoyably fun. There is no narrative. History is not on the agenda. It is all about soaking in the romance of the Charleston Harbor ambiance--salt water, ocean breezes, and the unrivaled, beautiful waterfront of Charleston. Firefly Vodka was complimentary. Water and soft drinks were provided along with a cash bar as refreshments.

April-October, Charleston Harbor cruises aboard Palmetto Breeze include:

Margarita Monday
Pirate Sailing Adventure
2 for Tuesday Sunset Sail
“Windsday” Sail from Red’s Ice House on Shem Creek
FIREFLY Friday (sponsored by Firefly Vodka and benefitting Susan G. Komen Lowcountry)

Five Top Places For Being Knee Deep In The Water On A Beach Somewhere In Charleston

There has recently been a host of songs topping the Country Music Charts praising the gratification of putting your toes in the water or sitting on the edge of a pier drinking a beer or being knee-deep in the water with blue sky breezes, or picturing yourself in the salty evening air on a beach with cold margaritas. The only worry in the world is whether the tide will reach your chair--paradise served up on a guitar and a quarter note.

With three beautiful beaches in close proximity to its downtown district and a harbor connected to waterways lined with numerous edge-of-the-water bars, Charleston offers an endless array of prospective venues where a person can appease all of the previously mentioned saltwater comforts. You no doubt have your favorites.

So, let us shake off the stress of the day, kick off our shoes, and follow the way of the opportunistic pelican and frolicking dolphin to five water's edge destinations I place on the top of my list of favorite toe-dipping locations. Places where palm trees are growing, a warm breeze is blowing, a beautiful sunset is burning up the atmosphere, and there's music and dancing and lovers romancing in the salty evening air.

1) Folly Island, Morris Island Lighthouse--"knee-deep in the water somewhere."
On the north tip of Folly Island is a secluded stretch of beach with a scenic view of the Morris Island Lighthouse. It is a considerable walk from the parking area to the beach, and because of the currents, it is not a good place to swim--reasons why you will not see large numbers of people. On the walk to the beach, you will pass remains of building foundations left by Hurricane Hugo. Old, graying trees line portions of the inlet beach and make for great pictures with the lighthouse in the background. It is a great place to wade out into the water and cast your fishing line to catch a variety of fish.

2) Botany Bay Beach--"the only worry in the world is whether the tide is going to reach your chair."
Botany Bay Beach is part of Botany Bay Plantation. The beautiful beach is a pleasant half-mile walk from the parking area. Weather worn palmetto trees grayed by the salty sea breezes and age line the sea shelled beach. Visitors indulge in a peculiar custom of lining the trunks of downed trees with seashells and hanging them on their branches. Some people come to swim, some come to fish, some come to look at the shells, some come to take photographs, and some spread out beach blankets under beach umbrellas. Walking into the waters close to the shore can be precarious due to the numerous sharp shells in the water. Botany Bay Plantation personifies the reasons why I love Charleston and the Lowcountry. It is idyllic.

3) Breach Inlet, Isle of Palms and Sullivan's Island--"toes in the water."
During the day, you can spot me standing on the shore with baited hook drifting in the currents of Breach Inlet--an ideal place for surf fishing and watching the dolphins splash around. It is never crowded. There is no swimming here because of the dangerous currents, but it is only a short walk to where you can swim. You don't have to pay for parking as you do near the connector and Front Beach. Great place to view the kite surfers across the inlet on Sullivan's Island on a breezy day. It is also my favorite location for releasing wine bottles into the outgoing current with messages inside. I have a great story about one of the released wine bottles. At sunset, you may find me at the rooftop bar of the Boathouse Restaurant.

4) Front Beach--Isle of Palms--"picturing yourself in the salty evening air on some beach, somewhere with cold margaritas."
Isle of Palms was the first beach I went to after moving to the Charleston area. During Spoleto Festival, it is the location of the sand sculpting contest. I have fished by the beach's pier in the past, but I come here mainly to people-watch. You will often find me sitting on the upper deck of Coconut Joe's overlooking Front Beach and the pier drinking a Corona or an alcoholic concoction. Ice cream stands and shops are nearby on Ocean Blvd.






5) Red's Ice House, Shem Creek--"sitting on the edge of a pier to drink a beer."
Red's Ice House on Shem Creek is a popular restaurant/bar located in Mt. Pleasant. The views from its water-side decks on the boat busy Shem Creek are spectacular, especially around sunset. It attracts a high-energy crowd with only one objective on their mind, fun. It has its own dock where boats can pull in and out throughout the night, a full-service bar close to the action inside and out, and an upper deck for the ultimate view of Shem Creek. It also has a dog-friendly policy, which I soon became quite aware of from the slobbery licks on my hand as I walked on the outside decks. I like sitting on the edge of the pier/dock and sticking my feet into the water near the Palmetto Breeze. During the day, you will see plenty of paddleboarders and kayakers, along with plenty of pelicans and dolphins.

The Ninth Annual MardiCrawl 2013, February 23rd-An Emotional Story And A Good Cause On A Day Of Fun

We were vacationing in Quebec, my father and two of my brothers. It was a fishing trip. At the time my father was in his mid-sixties. While we were fishing, my father's line would get tangled up on the reel of his fishing rod. When that would happen, he would spend the longest time trying to untangle it, thus missing out on quality fishing time. Granted, tangled fishing line can be a challenge to undo, but for some reason he just could not figure it out and would appear to be frustrated by it.

My father was a mechanical engineer, a person who designed and performed trouble-shooting on motors for vacuum cleaners. Yet, a tangled fishing line appeared to stump him at the time. It was the first signs my father was suffering from the beginnings of Alzheimer's disease, the affliction that little by little stole away his personality and eventually his life.

The Ninth Annual MardiCrawl 2013 will be held this Saturday on one of the hottest stretches of water in the Charleston area, and in behalf of a cause for people who have experienced what my family struggled with. The cause is the South Carolina Chapter of the Alzheimer’s Association and other local charities. The party is hosted by the Lowcountry Parrot Head Club. The Alzheimer’s Association is one of the groups main charities because Jimmy Buffet's father also died from Alzheimer's disease. Beautiful, historic Shem Creek in Mt. Pleasant is the place.

I have attended a couple of the Parrot Head meetings held at Red's Ice House. The Parrot Heads are a group of social people who love Jimmy Buffet music and engage in activities that are charitable, educational and that promote the general welfare of the community. The last meeting I attended, I became closely acquainted with one of the mascots - a white parrot who was placed on my shoulder by the head speaker during the group's discussion about memberships and upcoming events they planned on sponsoring. It was the first time a bird of that size sat on my shoulder. My advice to you if you ever attend one of their meetings - don't turn your back to the speaker or else wear a heavy, leather shirt and maybe a few crackers. Curious about the Parrot Heads - they meet the third Tuesday of every month at Red's Icehouse on Shem Creek and anyone is welcome.

The MardiCrawl begins at 2:00 pm at Red's Ice House, February 23rd. Check-in and registration on the day of the event is from 1 - 4:00 pm. Advanced registration costs $25 and on the day of the event $30. Participants will receive an official badge and t-shirt. Then the fun begins. You will crawl, not literally, from restaurant to restaurant eating tasty foods and sipping on favorite cocktails with your friends and new acquaintances. The sequence of restaurants will be Red’s Ice House, R.B.’s Seafood Restaurant, Vickery’s Bar and Grill, Water’s Edge Restaurant, The Shelter Kitchen and Bar, Shem Creek Bar and Grill, and back to Red’s where you will regroup for the after party at 8:00 pm. There will be live music, and of course the beautiful waterway.

Click on Red's Ice House and Shem Creek to learn more about this beautiful area.

A Night At Red's Ice House With Eddie Bush And Company-Boats, Beer, And Music

Shem Creek at sunset

While "Rock of Ages" semi-rocked the theaters, Eddie Bush was pickin' his guts out for the party crowd at Red's Ice House on Shem Creek. "Rock of Ages" is a rock/jukebox musical about a night of revelry and debauchery at the beer soaked Bourbon Room on the Sunset Strip with a "Footloose" theme. It features Tom Cruise as the ripped and jaded metal musician/singer Stacee Jaxx decked out in a Bret Michaels type of bandanna, only blue, and sporting an Axl Rose attitude. While the movie has gotten cool reviews, Tom Cruise's performance as Stacee Jaxx has gotten "thumbs up" reviews along with an endorsement from Bret Michaels himself. It features old hits like "Sister Christian", "Anyway You Want It", "Cum On Feel the Noize", and "Wanted Dead or Alive", which makes it worth seeing for a nostalgic trip back to the 80's brand of rock music.

Red's Ice House on Shem Creek is a popular restaurant/bar located in Mt. Pleasant. The views from its water-side decks on the boat busy Shem Creek are spectacular, especially around sunset. It attracts a high-energy crowd with only one objective on their mind, fun. It has its own dock where boats can pull in and out throughout the night, a full service bar close to the action inside and out, and an upper deck for the ultimate view of Shem Creek. It also has a dog-friendly policy, which I soon became quite aware of from the slobbery licks on my hand as I walked on the outside decks.

Upper deck at Red's Ice House

It is not hard to guess where Red's Ice House got its name, because that is what it literally was back in the early days, an ice house owned by Lewis Hughes Simmons, also known as "Red". The Simmons family first built a dock in 1957 along the Shem Creek to provide a shrimp packing shed for local shrimpers. Then, in the 1970s Red Simmons installed a big ice blowing machine to fill the ice holds of the local fleet. So, from that time until the late 1990's he provided both the ice and housing services for fish packing. And so, the restaurant /bar in honor of its one time owner bears the name Red's Ice House.

Every Friday and Saturday night there is live entertainment. Eddie Bush was the featured performer scheduled and the main reason I came to Red's Ice House this particular Saturday night. When I arrived around 8:15pm, the restaurant and decks were packed with young and older. The Palmetto Breeze was just pulling into the docks with a full compliment of sightseers and fun seekers. For your information, the Palmetto Breeze is a sailing catamaran with 1,700 square feet of decking, plus covered seating. It offers a variety of daily public cruises, including dolphin sails, pirate adventures, barrier island sunsets, and historic Charleston Harbor sails. It is also available for private charters. Tonight's cruise was the Harbor Dolphin Sunset Sail. For more information on itinerary and dates go to the Palmetto Breeze calendar.

Palmetto Breeze catamaran

The skies were beautiful and the temperature was a perfect 72 degrees. The air wasn't saturated with the usual southern humidity, but a hint of testosterone and estrogen could be detected. The conversations were boisterous and filled with laughter. Just what you would expect of Red's Ice House on a Saturday night. Tonight, Coronas looked like the favored choice of beer judging by the empty bottles left on the deck rails and tables. I started to make my way around the outside decks to take some pictures, at which time I got my first slobbery kiss from one of the female patrons, this one happened to be on a leash. I thought I might fair better down where the boats come into the docks, so I parked myself for awhile at the boat entrance to take videos and pass the time until Eddie Bush took to the floor. I got a few nods and smiles, but no kisses. I did have a brief conversation with two very attractive, nicely dressed women who were curious about what I was doing at the restaurant.

Boaters on Shem Creek

Boats docking at Red's Ice House

Red's Ice House crowd

Eddie Bush started his first set around 10:15pm. Eddie needs no introduction. He is a Charleston favorite and draws a crowd where ever he goes. He is well known for his fiery guitar riffs and energized performances. Another talent became apparent tonight, he would make an excellent radio talk show host judging by his introduction of his accompanying bassist, Ben Bennett, where he encouraged him to do a rendering of "Billy Jean". Eddie was also joined by Julie Beam, the birthday girl of the night with excellent moves and harmony singer. I will let the videos speak for themselves and enjoy the pictures as well. See you around town.