SUPing With Coastal Expeditions On Hectic Shem Creek-A Fun Way To Spend A Day

Shem Creek was alive with watersports enthusiast and boaters. It was a typical Sunday crowd. For me, it was another  suntastic day SUPing on the water. It was hot, it was humid and a nice breeze was blowing in from Charleston Bay. Only difference from my last outing, Nature Adventures Outfitters had no SUP boards available due to the large crowd of renters, so I went to Coastal Expeditions located on the other side of the bridge further down creek.

Coastal Expeditions is located in a quieter area of Shem Creek with less boat traffic, unlike Nature Adventures Outfitters, which is right in the heart of the hustle and bustle associated with the numerous waterside restaurants and bars. The rental office and adjoining deck overlooks the creek. It is considered the flagship store of Coastal Expeditions, a family owned business that has been on Shem Creek for 20 years. There are two other locations, one on Folly Creek and one on the Isle of Palms and Morgan Creek. It also has restrooms and changing area, conveniences Nature Adventures Outfitters lacks.

Fortunately, SUP boards were available at Coastal Expeditions. It offered a two hour rental for $29 and a four hour rental for $40. I was somewhat disappointed they didn't offer a three hour rental like NAO for $29, but they were gracious enough to accommodate my concerns and said, "If you happen to come back in three hours, we will only charge you an additional $10." I was pleased with the arrangement even though it was more expensive than NAO.

The attendants readied our boards and we entered the meandering waters of Shem Creek. I started off in the kneeling position, but once I pulled away from the dock, I tentatively pushed up to a standing position and paddled toward the bridge, passing the private docks of Shem Creek's residents and the tall grass growing along the water's edge gently swaying like a hula dancer in the tidal current and balmy breeze.

Moments later, we passed under the Coleman Blvd bridge and entered the busy waters of the restaurant and bar district of Shem Creek. Fellow paddleboarders and kayakers competed for the best picture taking positions as several dolphins were breaching the waters around the numerous boats pulling-in and taking-off from the docks close to the Waters Edge.

We unabatedly continued forward past the restaurants toward Charleston Bay and Crab Bank Island, our first planned destination. Near a dock extending out into the bay on the left side of the Shem Creek's head waters, the surf was choppy from the boats cruising passed. Unable to navigate the turbulent waters, I took my first unplanned plunge into the warm, salty waters. Fortunately, my pride was spared any embarrassment when a fellow paddleboarder likewise descended into the waters. Unfortunately, I lost my sun glasses in the mishap. They were loosely hooked to the straps of my life jacket. Maybe someday, someone will glimpse a dolphin swimming around Shem Creek sporting a pair of sunglasses.

I pulled myself back onto the board and continued. Strangely, we were the only paddleboarders in the bay and on the island. The view of the downtown skyline, Ravenel Bridge and historic Shem Creek was spectacular as usual. I soaked in the ambiance and chatted awhile with my fellow paddleboarder about life's simple pleasures, family and hobbies. The three hours passed by quickly. It was another fantastic day of paddleboarding thanks to Coastal Expeditions.

Coastal Expeditions offers more than just paddleboard and kayak rentals. It hosts charter expeditions to some of the remotest, unspoiled estuaries and islands of coastal Charleston, accessible only by boat or ferry. Islands and estuaries like Morris Island, Capers Island, Bulls Island and Cape Romain National Wildlife Refuge. Charters depart from the Shem Creek Maritime Center and Garris Landing in Awendaw, SC. For a complete description of what you will see and schedules, go to Coastal Expeditions and Bulls Island.

Get out and paddle your cares away for a day.

Walking On The Waters Of Shem Creek-Stand Up Paddleboard Style

I parked my truck near the Water's Edge on Shem Creek and made the necessary preparations. I put my keys and cell phone into a plastic bag, grabbed my sun glasses, and bank card. The rental shack of Nature Adventures Outfitters is attached to Mt. Pleasant Seafood. It would be my first time paddleboarding.

I signed up for the three hour rental for $28 and was instructed to wait on the outdoor carpeted area next to tables stacked with life jackets. "Are you an experienced paddleboarder or is this your first time?" the attendant inquired. "First time," I excitedly responded. "Pick out a life jacket and wait for the guide to give you some tips." A young couple and myself would be paddling solo. The guide was giving final instructions to the group ahead of us.

It was now our turn. The guide instructed me to raise my arm as high as I could and told me to bend my wrist down. He adjusted an oar according to that height. He did the same for the couple. He demonstrated the fundamentals of proper paddling and showed us how to raise ourselves to a standing position on the board. "Does anyone have electronics on them?" he asked. "I do," I said and showed him the plastic bag containing my keys and cell phone. He pulled out a blue pouch with a snap on it, put the plastic bag into it and instructed me on how to roll it up to waterproof it. He snapped it to my life jacket. We were now ready to embark on our adventure.

We went down a ramp covered with pluff mud-soaked carpets to the edge of the creek, which was six feet lower than high tide levels. It was low tide. We proceeded to mount the boards one at a time starting in a kneeling position. With the water levels so low, standing would have been trickier. I pushed off with my paddle into the gentle current and pointed the board towards Charleston Bay.

For now, I wasn't confident enough to stand up. I remained kneeling and experimented with the proper paddling basics. After a few strokes, I was comfortable with my technique and picked up my speed. The board glided over the water. There was a strong wind coming in from the bay that made paddling more strenuous. Under the present circumstances, I decided to take pictures on my return, with the wind at my back. Cruising past the restaurants, shrimp boats, and the end of the boardwalk, I entered the open waters with Crab Bank Island straight ahead, my first planned destination. Thank goodness, the boat traffic was light.

As I neared the island, the chatter of the feisty gulls grew louder. Ten feet in front of me an enormous figure rose from the water. To my surprise, it was a manatee. My encounter with the lumbering giant of the coastal waters was brief. It slipped below the surface out of sight, but not forgotten. The tip of my paddleboard grazed the shore of the island as I kept a watchful eye for its reappearance. It had parted company, but forever etched in my memory.

The pelicans were indifferent to my presence, but the gulls danced and voiced their disapproval. I soaked in the aura of Charleston's coastline and began to take pictures. I was joined by two other paddleboarders, one was a local and the other was from Washington DC. Shortly after, the young couple arrived. We sat on our boards and shared some friendly, southern style pleasantries. I was the last to leave the island. It was time for me to take my paddleboarding to the next level, standing up.

The stiff breeze blissfully nudged me along. The return to Shem Creek was quicker. I removed my cell phone from the pouch and began to click away. Dolphins effortlessly swam past no more than four feet away. I floated next to the massive shrimpers, cruised along side tour boats, sat on the floating docks by the boardwalk and people watched with my feet on the board, briefly saw another manatee, and waved to tourists on the decks of the restaurants and bars.

With the low tide, the underbelly of Shem Creek's dock system was exposed. A skeletal labyrinth of pillars both old and new, some fractured by the wear and tear of age and the salty life. It was both eerie and beguiling. A tangled decoupage of wood, stone, roots, netting, and marine debris partially covered with crustaceans common to the area.

I would circle back at the bridge and let the incoming current carry me for another glimpse of the Shem Creek waterfront. Even though I had seen it many times before, I was now seeing it from a dolphin's vantage point. I did that several times before turning into my entry point thoroughly gratified with my paddleboard excursion.

 

A Park With A Beautiful Boardwalk And An Awesome Panaramic View Of What We Love About Charleston

It was a beautiful Sunday afternoon. In the near distance, the spires of the Ravenel Bridge rose
above the trees. The periodic ominous clouds and a rolling rumble of thunder reminded me there were storms in the area. No surprise, they were in the forecast.

Opportunistic sea gulls squawked overhead, patiently waiting to pounce on discarded bait. Pelicans cruised the surface of the waters below for any unsuspecting prey. Several dolphins playfully splashed close by.

On moored boats across the waters, shrimpers fussed with their nets while listening to music. A crane stood motionless in an opening of a weather worn structure on the tall docks. An endless succession of boats of all sizes had been parading past since my arrival. It is one of the busiest waterways flowing into Charleston Bay for recreational watercraft.

A family with young kids tended fishing rods and crab traps under the covered section at the end of the boardwalk nearby. My fishing rod was propped against the wooden rails of the long boardwalk, baited line trailing in the slow moving current. I kept one eye on the rod tip for the slightest hint of popping motion and the other eye on the groups of paddleboarders and kayakers floating past, sometimes too close to the fishing line. We were competing for the same water space.

Fellow anglers politely called out to the groups to warn them away from their line. An unsteady paddleboarder, obviously new to the experience, plunged into the water while trying to maneuver around one of the near invisible lines. I called out to him, "How's the water." A fellow paddleboader answered back, "You should jump in and find out." I was just being friendly but I believe by his response he felt inclined to defend his buddies damaged dignity.

I started a conversation with a woman on a paddleboard. I inquired, "Do you live here or are you visiting." She informed me she was from Erie, PA. "Where are you staying," I asked. "In downtown Charleston, with friends," she replied. She was joined by five other paddleboarders. She asked me to take a picture of them and send it to her email. Conversations come easy on the boardwalk. People are here to relax, have fun and enjoy the unequaled beauty of the creek's marsh scenery.

One of the angler's fishing line began to peel off his reel. It was something big. He grabbed his rod and pulled the tip back hard. The long tug of war began. Reeling it in would be a challenge with all the boats coming in and out of the creek. My guess was a stingray, which turned out to be correct when it momentarily surfaced and showed itself for verification. He battled the ray for over twenty minutes before it finally surrendered. Bringing it up onto the decking would be impossible, so he walked the fish down the boardwalk to the steel floating docks where he pulled it up, took pictures, and released it back into the rising waters.

 

These are the scenes you will see from the 2,200 foot long boardwalk that extends from its park entrance on Coleman Blvd to near the mouth of Shem Creek. It is called Shem Creek Park. The $2.5 million park and boardwalk were built and inaugurated in 2011. It includes a 250 foot floating dock where visitors can tie their boats. At the entrance of the boardwalk, you are greeted by Pete the Pelican, a 9-foot-tall sculpture covered with marine debris collected in waterways during the 2011 Beach Sweep. Pete the Pelican has been there since April of 2012.

The Charleston Water Taxis departs from the floating dock at Shem Creek Park. Visitors and locals staying or living in the Mt. Pleasant area can take the Water Taxi directly to downtown Charleston. Boats land at the Maritime Center next to Aquarium Wharf. Taxis run every hour so you can take one of their hourly boats back to your destination. Please call 843-330-2989 for pickup prices.

Shem Creek is known as "a seafood and water lover’s paradise". After a relaxing chill on the boardwalk, take the opportunity to visit one of the many restaurants and bars. The Palmetto Breeze also departs from Shem Creek.

Charleston's Barrier Islands-Beautiful Beaches, Abundant Wildlife, Great Stays, And Pleasure Packed

Folly Island near Morris Island Lighthouse

Visit the city of Charleston and you will be surrounded by elegance and charm at every turn of the corner, but the historic downtown district is only the cake of the Lowcountry. Step outside of Charleston and you will be covered in the frosting. Charleston is surrounded by beautiful inlets, grassy creeks, pristine marshes, and a host of barrier islands where all the beach action and numerous water activities take place.

The barrier islands of Charleston each have a distinct history and character of their own, each offering something different for residents and visitors. Some are accessible by bridges and some only by a ferry or a private boat. I frequently visit Isle of Palms, Sullivan's Island, Folly Island and on occasion Kiawah Island. I have yet to visit Capers Island, which is only accessible by boat, and unless I buy a boat or get invited onto someone else's boat heading that direction, will remain for me uncharted. Bulls Island can be accessed only by ferry and I have plans in the near future to be on board.

Fishing on pier at Isle of Palms

The Isle of Palms was the first barrier island I visited while vacationing the Charleston area and remains my beach of choice. I have fished and kayaked its backwaters and inlets, ate at its restaurants, and stayed in its vacation homes. On a warm, clear night, you will often find me sitting on the upper deck of Coconut Joes overlooking Front Beach and the pier taking in the beautiful sunset. During the day, you could spot me standing on the shore with baited hook drifting in the currents of Breach Inlet - an ideal place for surf fishing and watching the dolphins splash around. Next time you drive over the H.L. Hunley Bridge be sure to wave, and I will wave back. An even better place from which to watch the dolphins of Breach Inlet is on the rooftop bar of the Boathouse Restaurant located just before you cross over to Sullivan's Island. If you are looking for some nighttime action visit the Windjammer and for daytime action there is plenty of golf at the Wild Dunes Resort.

Kitesurfer in the "Bath"

As you look across Breach Inlet from the Isle of Palms to Sullivan's Island, on a breezy day you will likely observe a flock of colorful kites moving back and forth across the skyline. Those would be the sails of the kitesurfers who come to this area of Sullivan's Island referred to as the "Bath" - an almost landlocked body of water surrounded by sand. Aside from the kitesurfers, SUPers come here for the calmer waters. Sullivan's Island is home to historic Fort Moultrie and the Charleston Light - the light sentinel that guides seafaring vessels into the Charleston Harbor. One of its more famous residents was Edgar Allan Poe. The island was the inspiration behind his short story "The Goldbug" and Poe's Tavern is a popular eatery you will find packed out on any given day.

Folly Beach is fondly called by its longtime residents the "Edge of America". A prominent landmark of this eclectic beach community is the Edwin S. Taylor Fishing Pier. The 24 feet wide and more than 1,045 feet long pier is the second longest on the East Coast. From the end of the pier, you can get a good look at the beach in either direction and for a small fee experience some of the best saltwater fishing in the area. On scheduled nights, there is shag dancing with the Moonlight Mixers. Folly Beach is also one of the top surfing beaches on the East Coast. You will find the top surfers of the area hanging out at a small strip of the beach called the "Washout" - best waves in Charleston waters. On the north end of Folly, you can take pictures of the Morris Island Lighthouse and on the other end you can walk around the tip to Folly River where the tidal rapids move in and out like the Niagara River of Niagara Falls. You can rent kayaks, SUP boards, boats, and vacation homes.

SUP board

Across from Folly, past Stono Inlet, is Kiawah Island. Kiawah Island has a recorded history that stretches back to 1675 when it was purchased from a native tribe. It is unique among South Carolina barrier islands. Unlike Hilton Head or Myrtle Beach, it remains environmentally sound and commercial development is virtually non-existent. It is home to the exclusive Kiawah Island Golf Resort. The resort will be the center of attention starting August 9th. The 94th PGA Championships will be played on its prestigious Ocean Course. The resort has four other championship courses and an array of amenities the whole family can enjoy. The only public beach access is on the west end of the island called Beachwalker Park.

Capers Island is totally uninhabited, except for the abundant wildlife that makes this island its home. The only access is by some kind of floating devise; preferably a boat. The adventurous person, after acquiring a free permit from the South Carolina Wildlife and Marine Resources Department, could rent a kayak at the Isle of Palms Marina and paddle out to the island where he or she could camp overnight. The somewhat less adventurous could hire Barrier Island Eco Tours to shuttle their group of 7 or more to and from Capers Island. No facilities of any type are on the island, so campers should come prepared with their own water, food, equipment, first aid kit, and whatever else. On the weekends and holidays, the island is a favorite place for boaters to put ashore. The island is an excellent place for surf fishing.

Bulls Island is one of only two Class 1 Wilderness Areas on the East Coast. No bridges connect this island to the mainland. A ferry run by Coastal Expeditions is the only way on. After leaving the Awendaw docks and weaving in and out of the backwater creeks, you are turned loose to wander the 16 miles of hiking trails and over seven miles of undeveloped beaches upon arrival. The wildlife is incredible. Over 270 species of migratory birds including bald eagles, snowy egrets and great blue heron call it home. Loggerhead sea turtles nest on the island along with a huge population of alligators. Well, you get the picture, and plenty of them. Bikes are allowed and cash encourage, tickets are $30 for adults and $15 for children 12 and under. Go to Coastal Expeditions for the complete details.