Charleston's Barrier Islands-Beautiful Beaches, Abundant Wildlife, Great Stays, And Pleasure Packed

Folly Island near Morris Island Lighthouse

Visit the city of Charleston and you will be surrounded by elegance and charm at every turn of the corner, but the historic downtown district is only the cake of the Lowcountry. Step outside of Charleston and you will be covered in the frosting. Charleston is surrounded by beautiful inlets, grassy creeks, pristine marshes, and a host of barrier islands where all the beach action and numerous water activities take place.

The barrier islands of Charleston each have a distinct history and character of their own, each offering something different for residents and visitors. Some are accessible by bridges and some only by a ferry or a private boat. I frequently visit Isle of Palms, Sullivan's Island, Folly Island and on occasion Kiawah Island. I have yet to visit Capers Island, which is only accessible by boat, and unless I buy a boat or get invited onto someone else's boat heading that direction, will remain for me uncharted. Bulls Island can be accessed only by ferry and I have plans in the near future to be on board.

Fishing on pier at Isle of Palms

The Isle of Palms was the first barrier island I visited while vacationing the Charleston area and remains my beach of choice. I have fished and kayaked its backwaters and inlets, ate at its restaurants, and stayed in its vacation homes. On a warm, clear night, you will often find me sitting on the upper deck of Coconut Joes overlooking Front Beach and the pier taking in the beautiful sunset. During the day, you could spot me standing on the shore with baited hook drifting in the currents of Breach Inlet - an ideal place for surf fishing and watching the dolphins splash around. Next time you drive over the H.L. Hunley Bridge be sure to wave, and I will wave back. An even better place from which to watch the dolphins of Breach Inlet is on the rooftop bar of the Boathouse Restaurant located just before you cross over to Sullivan's Island. If you are looking for some nighttime action visit the Windjammer and for daytime action there is plenty of golf at the Wild Dunes Resort.

Kitesurfer in the "Bath"

As you look across Breach Inlet from the Isle of Palms to Sullivan's Island, on a breezy day you will likely observe a flock of colorful kites moving back and forth across the skyline. Those would be the sails of the kitesurfers who come to this area of Sullivan's Island referred to as the "Bath" - an almost landlocked body of water surrounded by sand. Aside from the kitesurfers, SUPers come here for the calmer waters. Sullivan's Island is home to historic Fort Moultrie and the Charleston Light - the light sentinel that guides seafaring vessels into the Charleston Harbor. One of its more famous residents was Edgar Allan Poe. The island was the inspiration behind his short story "The Goldbug" and Poe's Tavern is a popular eatery you will find packed out on any given day.

Folly Beach is fondly called by its longtime residents the "Edge of America". A prominent landmark of this eclectic beach community is the Edwin S. Taylor Fishing Pier. The 24 feet wide and more than 1,045 feet long pier is the second longest on the East Coast. From the end of the pier, you can get a good look at the beach in either direction and for a small fee experience some of the best saltwater fishing in the area. On scheduled nights, there is shag dancing with the Moonlight Mixers. Folly Beach is also one of the top surfing beaches on the East Coast. You will find the top surfers of the area hanging out at a small strip of the beach called the "Washout" - best waves in Charleston waters. On the north end of Folly, you can take pictures of the Morris Island Lighthouse and on the other end you can walk around the tip to Folly River where the tidal rapids move in and out like the Niagara River of Niagara Falls. You can rent kayaks, SUP boards, boats, and vacation homes.

SUP board

Across from Folly, past Stono Inlet, is Kiawah Island. Kiawah Island has a recorded history that stretches back to 1675 when it was purchased from a native tribe. It is unique among South Carolina barrier islands. Unlike Hilton Head or Myrtle Beach, it remains environmentally sound and commercial development is virtually non-existent. It is home to the exclusive Kiawah Island Golf Resort. The resort will be the center of attention starting August 9th. The 94th PGA Championships will be played on its prestigious Ocean Course. The resort has four other championship courses and an array of amenities the whole family can enjoy. The only public beach access is on the west end of the island called Beachwalker Park.

Capers Island is totally uninhabited, except for the abundant wildlife that makes this island its home. The only access is by some kind of floating devise; preferably a boat. The adventurous person, after acquiring a free permit from the South Carolina Wildlife and Marine Resources Department, could rent a kayak at the Isle of Palms Marina and paddle out to the island where he or she could camp overnight. The somewhat less adventurous could hire Barrier Island Eco Tours to shuttle their group of 7 or more to and from Capers Island. No facilities of any type are on the island, so campers should come prepared with their own water, food, equipment, first aid kit, and whatever else. On the weekends and holidays, the island is a favorite place for boaters to put ashore. The island is an excellent place for surf fishing.

Bulls Island is one of only two Class 1 Wilderness Areas on the East Coast. No bridges connect this island to the mainland. A ferry run by Coastal Expeditions is the only way on. After leaving the Awendaw docks and weaving in and out of the backwater creeks, you are turned loose to wander the 16 miles of hiking trails and over seven miles of undeveloped beaches upon arrival. The wildlife is incredible. Over 270 species of migratory birds including bald eagles, snowy egrets and great blue heron call it home. Loggerhead sea turtles nest on the island along with a huge population of alligators. Well, you get the picture, and plenty of them. Bikes are allowed and cash encourage, tickets are $30 for adults and $15 for children 12 and under. Go to Coastal Expeditions for the complete details.

Great Beach Day On Isle of Palms Memorial Day, May 28, 2012-TS Beryl Kicked Up The Surf

Isle of Palms pier

While Tropical Storm Beryl's bands battered Florida and Georgia, Charleston's beautiful beaches basked in bright sunshine and balmy breezes on this Monday of the Memorial Day weekend. Even though much of Beryl stayed south, the surf was feeling the effects. I ventured out onto Front Beach on Isle of Palms around noon time and the waves were washing up on shore making finding a spot to lay a towel on dry sand more difficult because of the crowd of sunbathers and swimmers. It was also near high tide. Those closet to the water were doing the beach shuffle, trying to keep there blankets out the encroaching waters. Everyone was having a great time.

There was a few surfers working the swells. The best wave hopping would have been found on Folly Beach, the place where all the more experienced surfers go when a storm is brewing in the Atlantic, but the Isle of Palms this day offered plenty of opportunity for it. It was the boogie boards and skim boards that ruled the waves. On shore, there were a few batting the volleyball around by the nets, like Jim and Melonie and others throwing the football in the surf like Joey, Joseph, and Torri. There was also the usual bocce ball players. Most were just there simply to soak up the rays and relax. Whether resident or vacationer, emphasis was on spending some quality time with family and friends.

Jim and Melanie practicing vollies

Bocce players

Mother taking pictures of the kids

Boogie board fun

Beach beauties

The whole time I was on the Isle of Palms the skies were clear, the sun hot, and the breeze brisk. The temperature was around 85 degrees. The clouds stayed off to the south and west. After I left Front Beach, I drove up to Breach Inlet where Isle of Palms ends and Sullivan's Island begins. The inlet is historically known as the actual launching site for the H. L. Hunley. There were a few fishing from the H. L. Hunley Bridge and about the same number fishing off the beach. You can't swim in Breach Inlet because of the powerful currents, and with the wind and high tide the waters were even more worked up. It's a beautiful spot to take pictures with the open waters of the ocean in the distance and the docks in the Intracoastal Waterway of the islands. You will often find dolphins frolicking in these waters, but today was not one of those times.

The Boathouse restaurant is located at Breach Inlet on the Isle of Palms side of the bridge. The restaurant was originally an old bait shop. In 1996 it was reconstructed and became the Boathouse. The restaurant's interior and exterior were designed to reflect an understated, low country island dwelling, complete with authentic local nautical features. It is casual dining with first-rate seafood, guaranteed to be fresh. The restaurant also features a rooftop bar where you can sip cocktails with a beautiful waterfront view, especially around sunset. Located at 101 Palm Blvd, Isle of Palms. Call 843-886-8000 for reservations and information.

I headed over to Summerville late afternoon. Summerville was feeling the effects of the tropical storm. There were more clouds in the sky and the ground showed signs that it had rained not long before. I wanted to check out the eatery called Perfectly Frank's. It was recently featured on the Food Network. Their main featured food is hot dogs, but there is nothing simple about these hot dogs. These hot dogs come topped with just about anything you can think of and have names like Frankie Valli and Frank Sinatra. I like bratwurst, so I chose the item called Frankie Brat. It was a bratwurst marinated in beer and onions, then grilled and topped with spicy mustard. Along with the brat, I ordered a 1/2 basket of fries. With a drink, it all cost between $7 and $8's.

The establishment was bright and colorful with scenes painted on the walls and simple tables and chairs to sit on. When I was there the line was long, which is not a good thing when you are hungry, but a good sign for the restaurant. One final note: Guard your food with your life or conscientious workers clearing the tables will take it. I got up to get a refill on my sweet tea and when I returned to the table my food was gone. Apparently, they thought I had left. They gave me a free order of fries and offered me another brat, but I declined. No harm, no foul. You can check them out at 118 N. Main Street in Summerville or perfectlyfranksonline.com.

What did you do on Monday, Memorial Day weekend?