SUPing With Coastal Expeditions On Hectic Shem Creek-A Fun Way To Spend A Day

Shem Creek was alive with watersports enthusiast and boaters. It was a typical Sunday crowd. For me, it was another  suntastic day SUPing on the water. It was hot, it was humid and a nice breeze was blowing in from Charleston Bay. Only difference from my last outing, Nature Adventures Outfitters had no SUP boards available due to the large crowd of renters, so I went to Coastal Expeditions located on the other side of the bridge further down creek.

Coastal Expeditions is located in a quieter area of Shem Creek with less boat traffic, unlike Nature Adventures Outfitters, which is right in the heart of the hustle and bustle associated with the numerous waterside restaurants and bars. The rental office and adjoining deck overlooks the creek. It is considered the flagship store of Coastal Expeditions, a family owned business that has been on Shem Creek for 20 years. There are two other locations, one on Folly Creek and one on the Isle of Palms and Morgan Creek. It also has restrooms and changing area, conveniences Nature Adventures Outfitters lacks.

Fortunately, SUP boards were available at Coastal Expeditions. It offered a two hour rental for $29 and a four hour rental for $40. I was somewhat disappointed they didn't offer a three hour rental like NAO for $29, but they were gracious enough to accommodate my concerns and said, "If you happen to come back in three hours, we will only charge you an additional $10." I was pleased with the arrangement even though it was more expensive than NAO.

The attendants readied our boards and we entered the meandering waters of Shem Creek. I started off in the kneeling position, but once I pulled away from the dock, I tentatively pushed up to a standing position and paddled toward the bridge, passing the private docks of Shem Creek's residents and the tall grass growing along the water's edge gently swaying like a hula dancer in the tidal current and balmy breeze.

Moments later, we passed under the Coleman Blvd bridge and entered the busy waters of the restaurant and bar district of Shem Creek. Fellow paddleboarders and kayakers competed for the best picture taking positions as several dolphins were breaching the waters around the numerous boats pulling-in and taking-off from the docks close to the Waters Edge.

We unabatedly continued forward past the restaurants toward Charleston Bay and Crab Bank Island, our first planned destination. Near a dock extending out into the bay on the left side of the Shem Creek's head waters, the surf was choppy from the boats cruising passed. Unable to navigate the turbulent waters, I took my first unplanned plunge into the warm, salty waters. Fortunately, my pride was spared any embarrassment when a fellow paddleboarder likewise descended into the waters. Unfortunately, I lost my sun glasses in the mishap. They were loosely hooked to the straps of my life jacket. Maybe someday, someone will glimpse a dolphin swimming around Shem Creek sporting a pair of sunglasses.

I pulled myself back onto the board and continued. Strangely, we were the only paddleboarders in the bay and on the island. The view of the downtown skyline, Ravenel Bridge and historic Shem Creek was spectacular as usual. I soaked in the ambiance and chatted awhile with my fellow paddleboarder about life's simple pleasures, family and hobbies. The three hours passed by quickly. It was another fantastic day of paddleboarding thanks to Coastal Expeditions.

Coastal Expeditions offers more than just paddleboard and kayak rentals. It hosts charter expeditions to some of the remotest, unspoiled estuaries and islands of coastal Charleston, accessible only by boat or ferry. Islands and estuaries like Morris Island, Capers Island, Bulls Island and Cape Romain National Wildlife Refuge. Charters depart from the Shem Creek Maritime Center and Garris Landing in Awendaw, SC. For a complete description of what you will see and schedules, go to Coastal Expeditions and Bulls Island.

Get out and paddle your cares away for a day.

Bowens Island Restaurant-It's Like Pluff Mud, Either You Love it Or You Don't

It stands above the island's tidal creek like an old brown pelican perched on a weatherworn dock,
spreading its wings in the warm southern sun. A hodgepodge of grayed timber, rusty corrugated steel, old doors for windows, graffiti covered tables and piles of bleached oyster shells, it was recognized as an "American Classic", basked in the lights of Hollywood and successfully endured trial by fire. It is tastefully Lowcountry through and through in its fare and adored by the locals, but if you are expecting to be served hand and foot, you're at the wrong place. It has been tagged with a reputation similar to pluff mud, "Either you love it or you don't", and that is just about how its reviews read.

Located on a 13-acre island, Bowens Island Restaurant is just five minutes from Folly Beach. It was established 46 years ago by the Bowen family. The original structure was mostly destroyed by a fire in 2006. In that same year, just before the fire, it won a prestigious James Beard Foundation Award - named one of eight "America's Classics" boasting "timeless appeal and quality food that reflects the history and character of its community."

In 2010, the restaurant appeared in the movie Dear John under the name Shrimp Shack. It has been referred to as a seafood dive, but when that reference is coming from Coastal Living and Southern Living magazines the reference would be more a compliment than a slur - meaning in this case "a simple place with traditional fare and unforgettable ambiance."

On Charleston Magazine's "Charleston Bucket List - things every local must experience", dining at Bowens Island Restaurant was number 25. The magazine said, "there's no finer place in the world to watch the sunset over the marsh, slurping oysters harvested just a few yards away." A large deck overlooking the water with umbrellaed tables is perfect for such nightly renditions.

If you are looking for a menu to view on its web sight, you can forget it as well. Oysters, fried shrimp, hushpuppies, Frogmore stew, and cold beer is all you will find. The oysters, what the restaurant is best known for, are locally harvested and shoveled onto old, wooden tables from the fire pit. The beers are all local brews. Finally, be forewarned - No frills, no personalized service, loud patrons and a rude bartender are what you should expect according to some of the reviews. The food - Judge it for yourself.

The restaurant had that old shack-on-the-water, oysterman village appeal. Piles of white oyster shells decorated the landscape. The remains of an old boat ramp overgrown with sea grass reminds one of past maritime glory. A fishing pier with a raggedy pavilion was connected to a bait hut just outside of the rust tattered Sophisticate room. My favorite was a Caribbean style sign hanging above two tables reminding you it was "Another Day In Paradise."

Bowens Island Restaurant is open Tuesday to Saturday 5pm to 10 pm. It is located at 1870 Bowens Island Rd, Charleston, SC. A kayak/paddleboard rental run by Charleston Outdoor Adventures is on sight.

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"Grease" Now Playing At The James F. Dean Theatre Is Audaciously Entertaining and Exuberant Fun

All you need is a simply constructed set, a few 1950's style props, and a greased-up, hopelessly devoted group of local actors Born to Hand-Jive and you have the ingredients for a fun night out. There Are Worse Things I Could Do on Friday Summer Nights, like cruisin' N. Main street in Greased Lightnin' or spending the evening Alone At The Drive-in Movie with Look At Me, I'm Sandra Dee the Rock 'N' Roll Party Queen, but none better than a reserved seat in the third row of the James F. Dean Theatre being entertained by the Flowertown Players latest stage production of Grease. Well, maybe a front row seat would have been one better, but I am not complaining.

When the 1978 musical film of Grease was released, I didn't pay much attention to it. Watching greaser John Travolta singing and dancing around was not my idea of entertainment at the time, although seeing good girl Olivia Newton-John strutting her stuff in skin-tight, black leather pants would have been worth the $2 ticket. To this day, I still haven't watched the movie in its entirety, even though it was successful both critically and at the box office with the second-best selling album of that year in the United States. It also bears the distinction as the No. 1 highest-grossing musical, to date. So, why expose myself now? Partly, the greaser-collegiate days are long gone, I was a collegiate, but ultimately, I love the theater.

The Flowertown Players have compiled an energetic, passionate group of Grease lovers, and it oozed on stage. The sold out theater was spellbound and applauded every song. The two-tiered stage was simply constructed and efficiently used for accommodating the changing scenes. A live band added to the realism.

The stage crew handled the various props almost flawlessly. A significant challenge was the necessary incorporation of a real car, an integral piece of equipment that needed to be moved on and off the front of the stage for a few of the scenes, by hand. There was just this one minor malfunction I will leave unmentioned because the crew and actors were quick on their feet and didn't miss a beat. Its live theater and its called "thinking out of the box".

The actors were typecast well. The Pink Ladies of Rydell High all delivered an excellent performance. Andrea Rausch played the rudely blunt, hardcore Betty Rizzo and was a standout in the song Look At Me, I'm Sandra Dee.

Beauty School Dropout, Frenchie, was played by Rebecca Jones. Rebecca walked and talked the part spot-on and mirrored the look of the girls I remember from the late fifties.

Sarah Farra was captivating as Marty, the girl you would love to date. I loved her lively and cutesy deportment. Alyssa Nasce rounded out the group with a good supporting interpretation of Jan. Finally, squeaky clean Sandy was played by Jenny Aubrey. What a transformation at the end.

I particularly enjoyed the scene and combined vocals where Sandy and local boy Danny tell their versions of the warm Summer Nights they shared while she was vacationing on a beach. Cody Smith delivered some strong vocals in that scene as Danny Zuko, the bad boy of the T-birds. A black, Travolta pompadour would have made him a little more believable. Just sayin'.

Chris Skipper portrayed Roger with the usual enthusiasm he gives all his characters. Oh, it's not a nice thing to moon the principal, if you believe his story, but hey, that's Roger. Porter Conroy(Doody) and Spencer Chapa(Kenickie) both turned in admirable performances as did the whole supporting cast, crew and production team under Monica Shows as director. Not to leave unmentioned, the singing and choreography of Born To Hand-Jive was a noteworthy highlight.

 

 

So, dig out your black pants, white t-shirts, pink jackets, and slick your hair back and come on down to the James F. Dean Theatre for a night of riotous, PG 13 fun with the Rydell High Class of 1959. The seats are selling out fast for the remaining shows. Purchase your ticket.

The Rise From Ashes To Glory-The True Story of RB's Seafood Restaurant on Shem Creek

In 2002, the scene on Shem Creek would have been much different than the stunning waterfront we experience currently. A 35-seat eatery located in an old fish shed next to Red's Ice House was reduced by an accidental fire to ashes and rubble, leaving a blackened and charred heap that was once RB's Seafood Restaurant. It would be difficult to imagine the resulting void given the gorgeous view we are blessed with, and that is because from the ashes of gloom but not doom, a bigger and better RB's rose in its place.

The new seafood establishment seats more than 300 guests and has been nominated "the number one waterfront restaurant" for the past three of the 34 years it has been on Shem Creek, the original 35-seat eatery opened in 1979. The RB stands for Ronnie Boals, the owner and operator.

The front entrance walkway was flanked on both sides with navigation buoys and a large anchor adorned the landscaping. A sign hung above the door bearing the words, "We appreciate all who pass through our door." Stepping into the restaurant was like entering the lavish corridors of the old Titanic with its teak and mahogany accented decor. A long bar stood to the right, to the left, near the seating desk, was a ship's wheel. Sea pictures framed in ship portholes lined the walls above the dining booths and strategically placed oars, paddles, lanterns and sextants supported its nautical theme.

The day I visited the restaurant it was hot, humid, and overcast. I had been to RB's previously, but only for a cocktail with friends. The upper eating area was closed that late night, so we sat in the open-air porch on the lower level overlooking the boat dock and Shem Creek.

I requested a table on the upper section. The hostess directed me to the stairs located on an open porch lined with adirondack chairs of various bright colors.

At the top of the stairs, I was greeted by a life-like green alligator dressed in chef's attire holding a plate of napkins in one hand and a chalkboard in the other with the words "Welcome to Tiki" written on it.

It had an island feel. A colorful wrap-around bar with a bamboo-trimmed top dominated the space, above it was a grass-thatched canopy. I was greeted by another hostess. She directed me to my table. The whole table arrangement, unlike anything I had seen before, was a wooden swing with a grass-thatched top that you stepped onto, which I did.

I ordered a Palmetto Amber and from the extensive lunch menu selected the Mahi Mahi Sandwich for $13.50 with one side of Creek Fries. I sipped on my beer, watched the Thriller pull out from its covered dock by Vickory's with a boat-load of passengers, took pictures of the life-like pirate hanging from a rope, and enjoyed the gentle back and forth tidal motion of the table-swing while savoring the delicious fish sandwich.

 

 

After completing my meal, I sat on one of the chairs on the boat dock until it started to lightly rain. A group was boarding one of the shark charters. I cleverly remarked, "Sharks don't care about rain." They facetiously agreed and pulled away from the dock with the smell of boat fuel mixed with saltwater whiffing the moist air, but a couple of minutes later returned because the sprinkle turned into a Lowcountry summertime downpour. I ended the visit sitting on the adirondack chairs soaking in the coastal ambiance that is Shem Creek while the heavy rains descended.

My main objective that hot and rainy afternoon day was to enjoy a cooling beer and a relaxing lunch by the water. There is no better place than Shem Creek to do that and no better restaurant than RB's Seafood Restaurant according to public opinion and the critics. It is known for its complete package-fresh seafood, friendly service, and fair prices.

The true test of integrity is when it appears to matter the least. Even though it was just a simple lunch consisting of a simple fish sandwich, I can confirm the truthfulness of that opinion. The whole staff was friendly and engaging from greet to receipt. The food was fresh. The server was attentive. The price was fair if you pair it with the posh material surroundings and the superb waterfront view.

 

RB's Seafood Restaurant is open for lunch Monday thru Sunday 11:30 am to 4:00 pm and 4:00 pm to 10:00 pm for dinner Monday thru Thursday and Sunday. Friday and Saturday it is open until 10:30 pm.

Walking On The Waters Of Shem Creek-Stand Up Paddleboard Style

I parked my truck near the Water's Edge on Shem Creek and made the necessary preparations. I put my keys and cell phone into a plastic bag, grabbed my sun glasses, and bank card. The rental shack of Nature Adventures Outfitters is attached to Mt. Pleasant Seafood. It would be my first time paddleboarding.

I signed up for the three hour rental for $28 and was instructed to wait on the outdoor carpeted area next to tables stacked with life jackets. "Are you an experienced paddleboarder or is this your first time?" the attendant inquired. "First time," I excitedly responded. "Pick out a life jacket and wait for the guide to give you some tips." A young couple and myself would be paddling solo. The guide was giving final instructions to the group ahead of us.

It was now our turn. The guide instructed me to raise my arm as high as I could and told me to bend my wrist down. He adjusted an oar according to that height. He did the same for the couple. He demonstrated the fundamentals of proper paddling and showed us how to raise ourselves to a standing position on the board. "Does anyone have electronics on them?" he asked. "I do," I said and showed him the plastic bag containing my keys and cell phone. He pulled out a blue pouch with a snap on it, put the plastic bag into it and instructed me on how to roll it up to waterproof it. He snapped it to my life jacket. We were now ready to embark on our adventure.

We went down a ramp covered with pluff mud-soaked carpets to the edge of the creek, which was six feet lower than high tide levels. It was low tide. We proceeded to mount the boards one at a time starting in a kneeling position. With the water levels so low, standing would have been trickier. I pushed off with my paddle into the gentle current and pointed the board towards Charleston Bay.

For now, I wasn't confident enough to stand up. I remained kneeling and experimented with the proper paddling basics. After a few strokes, I was comfortable with my technique and picked up my speed. The board glided over the water. There was a strong wind coming in from the bay that made paddling more strenuous. Under the present circumstances, I decided to take pictures on my return, with the wind at my back. Cruising past the restaurants, shrimp boats, and the end of the boardwalk, I entered the open waters with Crab Bank Island straight ahead, my first planned destination. Thank goodness, the boat traffic was light.

As I neared the island, the chatter of the feisty gulls grew louder. Ten feet in front of me an enormous figure rose from the water. To my surprise, it was a manatee. My encounter with the lumbering giant of the coastal waters was brief. It slipped below the surface out of sight, but not forgotten. The tip of my paddleboard grazed the shore of the island as I kept a watchful eye for its reappearance. It had parted company, but forever etched in my memory.

The pelicans were indifferent to my presence, but the gulls danced and voiced their disapproval. I soaked in the aura of Charleston's coastline and began to take pictures. I was joined by two other paddleboarders, one was a local and the other was from Washington DC. Shortly after, the young couple arrived. We sat on our boards and shared some friendly, southern style pleasantries. I was the last to leave the island. It was time for me to take my paddleboarding to the next level, standing up.

The stiff breeze blissfully nudged me along. The return to Shem Creek was quicker. I removed my cell phone from the pouch and began to click away. Dolphins effortlessly swam past no more than four feet away. I floated next to the massive shrimpers, cruised along side tour boats, sat on the floating docks by the boardwalk and people watched with my feet on the board, briefly saw another manatee, and waved to tourists on the decks of the restaurants and bars.

With the low tide, the underbelly of Shem Creek's dock system was exposed. A skeletal labyrinth of pillars both old and new, some fractured by the wear and tear of age and the salty life. It was both eerie and beguiling. A tangled decoupage of wood, stone, roots, netting, and marine debris partially covered with crustaceans common to the area.

I would circle back at the bridge and let the incoming current carry me for another glimpse of the Shem Creek waterfront. Even though I had seen it many times before, I was now seeing it from a dolphin's vantage point. I did that several times before turning into my entry point thoroughly gratified with my paddleboard excursion.

 

The Trials And Triumphs Of A Lowcountry Walkabout

Sunday, I went on a Lowcountry walkabout. The day began with plans of fishing at Bulow Landing. A friend told me about the place and shared stories of the fish he caught there. The ideal time is two hours before high tide and two hours after. I packed a couple of sandwiches, a drink, got in my truck and headed to Bees Ferry Rd and Savannah Blvd where I searched for shrimp. After trying to locate a bait place, I ended up purchasing a half-pound at the Publix off of Savannah Blvd.

Bulow Landing is a paved boat ramp on Rantowles Creek, also popular with paddlers. When I arrived, the tide was already heading out. The ideal time was missed. Despite this set back, I decided to make the most of it. I baited my hook and tossed it into the fast moving current. It moved swiftly up the creek, making it necessary for me to reel it back. I tossed it in a second time. On this attempt, it got hung up on an oyster bed. My only option was to break the line. In the process, my rod tip broke off. In this short span of time, things were not exactly working out for the best. I rebaited and tossed it in again. It started to rain. After a few more casts and somewhat wet, I packed it in and headed out back onto Savannah Blvd.

I recalled seeing a sign pointing the way to Kiawah, Seabrook and Beachwalker Park while searching for bait earlier. It was at that moment I decided to turn at recalled sign onto Main Rd and follow the gray snack to wherever it would take me.

The spotty rains had passed for the moment and the sun was shining. The first notable landmark I ventured onto was the Limehouse Bridge over the Stono River. I was tempted to make the turn to Limehouse Landing located just below the bridge to try my luck again, but I resisted and pressed on.

Main Rd became State Rd, which ended at a traffic circle where Kiawah Island Pkwy led to Beachwalker Dr and the beach access. To my dismay, parking was $8, but I made a deal with the person at the parking booth and was able to park for free. I told her I would only be there a 1/2 hour at most. From the parking area, the view of Kiawah River was beautiful. The wooden walkway to the beach was picturesque. The beach was spacious, and this should be of no surprise, excellent for beachwalking, but I wasn't there to beachwalk. I stuck my feet in the water and took pictures. On the way off the beach, I stepped on some nasty beach prickers while trying to get one more good shot of the river. Ouch. I exited with a wave of thanks to the booth attendant. Next stop, Freshfields Village.

The Village is an eclectic island oasis of shops and restaurants located at the crossroads of Kiawah, Seabrook and Johns Island. There are 500 large trees, including over 200 palm trees adorning its streets and landscape. All of the trees were transplanted from the Coastal Islands. It has a man-made lagoon stocked with two alligators considered village "mascots". At present, The Andell Inn is under construction and slated to open early 2014. The hotel will have 100 rooms starting at $250 a night. I just might consider a stay during its grand opening.

Driving back from Kiawah, cruising in and out of the broadening shadows of the old live oaks lining the road, I made a quick stop at Angel Oak. While I was taking pictures, a young man standing nearby in awe of the sprawling tree summed it up when he said, "I have never seen anything like it." Angel Oak looks like a giant octopus covering 17,200 square feet of real estate and from tip to tip its longest branch is 187 ft. At 500 yrs young, it has survived hurricanes, civil war and everything else the Lowcountry has been able to throw at it.

On the road again, I finally did make the turn to Limehouse Landing. I fished with an watchful eye on the horizon. Dark clouds relentlessly moved in from the southwest with lightning and the threat of heavy rains. No luck fishing. It was 5:30 pm. It was the end to my triumphant Lowcountry walkabout.

The Fish House On Patriots Point-Superb Food And A View Second To None

It was to be an unusual day for me. I would be stepping out of my comfort zone. Store hopping was in the works. This is a rare event and the kind of activity I generally shy away from, but is at times knowingly necessary. There was this space that needed filling and an idea for a wall arrangement. I was joined by a friend who, by the way, loves to shop and is both talented and knowledgeable when it comes to designing spaces. Coleman Blvd in Mt. Pleasant was to be our destination, a mecca of antique stores.

The first order of business with the noon hour approaching was food. Mixing some pleasure with the business of the day was also part of the plan, but an ordinary lunch it would not be. Coleman Blvd is also a gateway to a mecca of outstanding water-side eateries and watering holes. The Fish House for one, Patriots Point's newest culinary attraction and the first to come in view while crossing the Cooper River from Charleston to Mt. Pleasant via the Ravenel Bridge.

The Fish House has been open for a little over a month and has created plenty of buzz since. From atop the bridge, the view of the restaurant on the Point, in the distance, was impressive, but standing on location, at the restaurant's waterfront setting, the view was even more extraordinary.

We entered the restaurant. The rooftop bar was our desired destination but upon arrival we found out it would not be open to patrons until 3 pm. We were so interested in having lunch in an open-air setting. As we mulled over the options, the bartender on duty heard our conversation with the hostess and offered his assistance. He summoned the manager and had the roll-up windows, which were presently down, opened. We were seated at our table fully satisfied with the warm Charleston Bay breeze surrounding us. The bartender offered to whip me up a special island drink. I accepted and the server delivered the concocted Rum Runner and my friend's Cranberry Vodka.

According to the rules for proper use of napkins, I appropriately laid it in my lap. My friend, very fussy about proper etiquette, was impressed. We sipped our drinks, soaked in the awesome view, and surveyed the lunch menu. My friend inquired of the server, "I'm interested in the Fish Sandwich. What kind of fish is it?" "It is mahi-mahi," answered the server. "I'll take it." I was going to keep it light and selected the Caesar Salad. I normally wouldn't choose salad as a main dish. I'll blame it on the sea air or maybe I wasn't really that hungry after snacking through the morning. Regardless, I am glad I did. You don't hear me use the adjective "superb" often. In this case, it is appropriate.

The Caesar Salad was a dish of prosciutto-wrapped romaine lettuce hearts, parmesan cheese tulle and sourdough croutons. The prosciutto was a pleasantly mouth-watering touch and the whole wrap appeared to be slightly charred, which gave it a smoky flavor. I savored every slice. Yes, I used a knife to eat a salad. My friend said the fish sandwich was very good.

The restaurant's numerous large windows and high ceilings give the seating areas an open, airy atmosphere. The wood beams, black lights and black fans hang from above in contrast to the lighter ceiling. Pictures and replicas of local saltwater specimens are everywhere, reminding you of the reason you are here, a good fish dinner. The historic Charleston skyline, the USS Yorktown, and the Charleston Harbor Resort Marina can be seen from literally every table and the rooftop bar's view is second to none. A point of interest-The bar top on the first floor is made from broken bottles of Sky Blue Vodka. It's an awesome centerpiece to gather around for a cocktail.

 

The staff from first contact to receipt was hospitable, friendly and helpful. The bartender went above and beyond his duties and that impressed me. Finally, thank you to Charles Arena, Jr. and the kitchen staff for an excellent culinary experience. I will be returning for the dinner menu.

We spent more money in the Fish House store and then bid farewell to Captain Morgan. Next stop, Shem Creek and the Water's Edge. We sat at a table next to the docks and watched the dolphin, the paddleboarders, and boaters while sipping on one more Rum Runner. I was now primed and ready to take on the exhausting task of store hopping for decorative accessories.