Legendary Savannah's Forsyth Park, Mercer Williams House Museum, and Sorrel-Weed House Museum

General William Sherman's headquarters

Established in 1733, this southern gem was the grand design of General James Oglethorpe. Its formation was patterned after a Chinese city. Noted Architect, John Massengale, called this city's layout "the most intelligent grid in America, perhaps the world". Instead of burning it to the ground, General William Sherman presented it to President Lincoln as a Christmas gift. As a travel destination, it ranks number three in the United States according to the Travel + Leisure World's Best Awards 2024 reader's survey.

Savannah, Georgia is dotted with picturesque miniature parks called squares, rightly named the "crown jewels" of the city. There is a total of 22 remaining today. Many are dominated by a monument featuring a famous dignitary who played an important part in its history and growth. Originally, they were used by the militia for practice and drills but now are gathering places for citizens and visitors. Each are shaded by huge live oak trees, beautifully landscaped, and surrounded by inns, shops, restaurants, museums, churches, and majestic estate homes available for you to tour.

On our way to Savannah, we made a stop at the Sheldon Church Ruins in Beaufort County, SC, which would turn out to be a fortuitous decision. From there, it was another hour drive to Savannah. Our accommodations for our two-night stay was in the Historic District at the Cambria Hotel on Montgomery Street. It turned out to be a good location because it put us within decent walking distance to the landmarks and points of interest we wanted to see. We were about a half a mile from East Bay Street and a little less than a half mile from the famous and stunning Forsyth Park, a must see when visiting the city.

Forsyth Park is a massive 30-acre park. It was the first landmark we targeted as we made our way down Whitaker Street past four of the city's picturesque squares, Palaskie Square, Madison Square, Chatham Square, and Monterey Square. It is three blocks wide, spanning from Whitaker Street to Drayton Street. Its vastness becomes obvious as you stand at its entrance on Gaston and Bull Streets--a tree-lined green space leading to an inspirational white fountain and extending beyond as far as you can see. The famous fountain was modeled after the fountains at the Place de la Concorde in Paris. The perfect place for family pictures, selfies, and contemplation, which we did.

Moving past the fountain, you come to a building called The Fort on Forsyth where there is a restaurant, children's playgrounds, and a huge domed stage for concerts. Continuing further, you come to a tall Civil War Monument, and beyond that, acres and acres of green grass for setting up picnics and playing sports. The sun was getting low in the sky, so we made our way back toward our hotel, walking past the nearby squares, picking out the estate homes we were interested in touring on our next day--the Mercer William House Museum and The Old Sorrel-Weed House Museum.

The Mercer Williams House Museum is one of the largest homes in Savannah, covering a full block. Even though the house bears the Williams name, no one from the Mercer Williams' family ever lived in the house. John R. Wilder bought it and completed its construction. The house and carriage house are both constructed with deep rose-colored bricks called 'Philadelphia Reds'. Its architectural design adds Renaissance Revival elements to a standard mix of Greek and Italianate. The house maintains its original moldings, windows, doorways, hand-railings, interior shutters, flooring and famous interior dome with stained glass fitted in 1868 when construction on the home was finished. Its 60-foot entrance hall retains its original ceramic tile made in England at Stoke-on-Trent.

The house was slated to be demolished. In 1969, James A. Williams, one of Savannah’s earliest and most dedicated private preservationists, bought the vacant property and began a two-year restoration of the house that would become his permanent residence. Thus, we have the famous Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil. I will not go into detail about the true murder story. You will have to read the book, watch the movie, or go to Savannah and do the tour to get the facts. However, I do enthusiastically suggest the tour. It is fascinating, and our guide was excellent. I have no pictures of the Mercer House gardens or interior. You are not permitted to take photographs once you leave the carriage house, where the tour begins. However, I will say, it was stunning. Interesting fact--James Williams had a cat named Sheldon, who came from the Sheldon Church in South Carolina, according to the guide. Tour cost--$13.50 per person.

The Sorrel-Weed House and Carriage House Museum was our next tour. We were encouraged to take as many photographs as we wanted to. This house is famous for its ghost stories and is considered the most haunted house in Savannah. However, we did not do the nighttime ghost tour, we did the history tour. The tour began in the gardens, moved to the carriage house, then to the ground level floor, and finally to the main floors. The tour guide told story after story of the three different owners and the people who served them as we moved from place to place, some historically fascinating, some diabolically gruesome. Wealthy French Hatian merchant Francis Sorrel, the original owner, hosted well known guests like Robert E. Lee and the Sorrel family's many famed parties. It was the first home in the State of Georgia to be designated a state landmark. Enjoy the photographs. Tour cost--$14 per person.

Savannah's history oozes with charm. Its architecture dates back more than 200 years. Many of the city's oldest houses and buildings have been transformed into museums over the years. You'll find that Savannah is legendary for its unique old-world antebellum architecture, her cobblestone streets, beautifully landscaped garden squares, and world-renowned parks. Small shops and fine eating establishments small and large are aplenty. One visit is not enough. Two visits are not enough. Three visits are not enough. I will go as far as to say, no number of visits is enough to take in all that is Savannah.

Hauntingly Imposing--Sheldon Church Ruins of Prince William's Parish

The sky was blue and the air was crisp on this late December day. A slight breeze playfully shuffled the fallen leaves laying about the sacred grounds. The bright early afternoon light lazily trickled down through the twisted limbs of the numerous aged oaks scattered about. The shadows cast unto the old structure by the tree's were as distinct as its illumination from the sun. The combined setting embodied a sense of serenity and solitude overshadowed by an unmistakable aura of desolation. Denuded of anything flammable, the time-stressed bricks of the old church bore the erosion marks of passing time indelibly etched over some 265 years into their sandy red grains. Just beyond its four singular pillars and mounted at its gaping entrance, an engraved stone plaque identified the antiquated edifice as the Church of Prince William's Parish known as Sheldon.

The historical record etched unto the stone plaque was brief, yet concise. It stated the church was built between 1745-1755, burned by the British Army 1779, rebuilt 1826, and burned by the Federal Army 1865. On Old Sheldon Church Rd, located at its street entrance, the historic marker supplemented a few more details to the narrative. In addition, it related the church was Anglican, primarily paid for by Lieutenant Governor William Bull I, and named after the ancestral home of the Bull Family at Sheldon Hall and Parish of Warwickshire, England.

William Bull was a land owner and politician in early South Carolina. His father was Stephen Bull, who was also Lord Anthony Ashley Cooper's deputy and one of the leaders of the expedition which came from England in 1670 and settled Charles Town. In 1733, William assisted James Oglethorpe in the founding of the new Province of Georgia and assisted General Oglethorpe in establishing the physical layout of Savannah, Georgia by surveying the land to form the basic grid pattern of the streets and squares. As a land owner, his Newbury Plantation bordered the church grounds where he is buried along with other South Carolina leaders.

The South Carolina Department of Archives and History gives a detailed description of what the
original church looked liked. It is said to be the first conscious attempt in America to imitate a Greek temple. Completed by 1753, Sheldon Church's walls were three-and-one-half foot thick and built along a row of seven Tuscan columns (six engaged, one outstanding). The western facade had an elegant portico, crowned by a triangular pediment with bulls-eye window and cornice with dentils. The large front doorway had a fanlight above and two round-headed windows, symmetrically spaced, on either side. On the north, five bays between the engaged columns were filled with a single tier of tall, round-headed windows; the other bay was left open for a portico. At the eastern end, above the alter, was a Palladian window, with a round-headed window to each side.

The Archives also mention the two crucial events pertaining to its burning. Sheldon Church was burned by General Augustine Prevost's British troops in May of 1779. General Sherman's 15th Corps under General John Logan burned it on January 14, 1865. A recent discovery has presented an alternate view as to what happened at the end of the Civil War. In a letter dated February 3, 1866, Miton Leverett wrote that "Sheldon Church not burn't. Just torn up in the inside, but can be repaired." It is possible the inside of the church was gutted to reuse materials for the rebuilding of homes burnt by Sherman's army. Either way, it was never repaired and was abandoned to the merciless rigors of time, but not forgotten.

Visitors from all over the country come to the Sheldon Church ruins to photograph its majestic remains and solemnly stroll its sacred grounds. One visitor wrote these well chosen words describing his visit: "It's hard to find the right words to describe the feeling that washes over you as you walk up to this place. Even writing this review I can feel a flood of emotions rushing back as I remember the time I spent here just taking the life of this place in. The ruins carry their own self being the projects upon its visitors as they walk the grounds."

Wedding ceremonies have been held in the ruins of Sheldon Church, but since 2015 it was no longer available to the public for such ceremonies. The day I visited, which was on a Friday, there was a steady flow of visitors, but never more than ten people.

Photographs from 1940 shows Sheldon Church Ruins overgrown

People have inquired whether there are any ghost stories associated with the Sheldon Church Ruins. Like most historic southern ruins with long and tragic histories, one would presume it to be the perfect candidate. The most well-known tale tells of a woman being seen dressed in a Pilgrim style brown dress and other accounts of strange activities, such as heavy footsteps being heard, and unexplained flashing lights. Ensuing investigations have been made and nothing out of the ordinary has been found. It definitely is a place where ones imagination could run wild, especially on a hot, humid evening when the sun slips below the mossy old oaks and darkness wistfully creeps through their branches and slowly smothers the dampening grounds.

Take in the setting, contemplate the history, photograph the architecture, the feeling of reverence and awe inspired by the Sheldon Church Ruins is hauntingly imposing. It is worth your consideration as you travel the Lowcountry taking in its colorful and illustrious history dating back to the beginnings of the United States.

A One Day Visit To Enchanting Savannah, GA-Charleston's Sister City

It was a beautiful southern morning for a one day trip to Charleston's sister city to the south, Savannah. We headed up Central Ave to 17A going toward Walterboro, a sleepy old town, where we would pick up I-95. By the way, if you are a person who likes antiques and collectibles, Walterboro's old Washington Street is lined with shops filled with these items. At the present, they are renovating the sidewalks and road, but when it becomes finished, it will be a centerpiece for residents and visitors alike. But I am getting ahead of a very important controversy and challenge that arose while on our way to Walterboro.

While chatting about Savannah my traveling partner, who has never been there, brought up the name Paula Deen. She said, "Paula Deen is a big name in Savannah." Even though I tried to look like I knew what she was talking about, she caught the underlying puzzled look in my eyes and followed up with the remark, "You don't know who Paula Deen is, do you." She lives for these moments. She continued, "She has a cooking show and a restaurant in Savannah." I innocently responded, "Well, I'm drawing a blank on the name right now, but I am sure I have seen her before." I could see she was basking in the moment.

So, to account for my apparent lack of knowledge on the matter, I quickly formulated a plan for redemption and presented a challenge. I contested, "When we get to Savannah, I bet you the first man I stop on the street and ask if he knows who Paula Deen is he will draw a blank just like me." "I'll bet you they will know who Paula Dean is," she reaffirmed. The challenge was on.

A hour and ten minutes later we crossed the Savannah River into Georgia and in a few moments were making our way to the heavily touristed Bay Street. Our first objective-finding a parking spot. It was a Saturday, so locating a parking spot could have been difficult, but we were fortunate and found one quickly. Our first stop was the ticket office for the River Queen located on the historic and very popular River Street near the Hyatt. We bought two tickets totaling $85.90 for the Saturday Luncheon Cruise. Boarding would begin at 11:30am. Since it was 11:00am, we had time to walk around and do what Keri does best, shop. There were already plenty of tourists milling around on the street and in the stores.

We boarded the old riverboat and selected our table on the restaurant deck. It was elegantly decorated with fancy dressed waiters. We noticed the drinks being brought to an older couple seated next to us and I inquired about their selection. Her drink caught my curiosity. Conversation continued from that point. The couple was on a three month vacation traveling up the East Coast.

I decided it was now time to put my challenge to the test. I asked the older gentleman if he had ever heard of Paula Dean. I was feeling pretty confident I had this one in the bag seeing he was an older man from Iowa. He smiled, but his wife answered, "Funny you should ask. We have plans of going to her restaurant called The Lady and Sons for dinner." I looked at Keri, now grinning from ear to ear. She toasted her victory with the declaration, "See. I was right." I quickly sought a recovery. The waiter had just then arrived with our drinks. I asked him, "Do you know Paula Deen?" Wrong person to ask. So, I figured it was time to put the controversy to rest and accept the defeat.

It was time to eat. The buffet had a selection of honey glazed barbecue pork loin, Southern fried chicken, Chef's special, creamy squash casserole, fresh fruit, assorted salads and deserts. The Captain related the history of Savannah and the riverfront as we cruised up and down. The food was excellent and the warm sun on the upper deck was great. Most of the scenery was uninteresting, consisting mainly of old docks and rusted warehouses, except for the section along Old River Street, which was more picturesque. You can take a picture of The Waving Girl Statue as the boat passes by. It honors the bittersweet life of Florence Martus, Savannah's legendary "waving girl." She had a tradition of waving at all the ships that passed by her cottage with a handkerchief by day and a lantern by night. She did it for 44 yrs. It remains a mystery as to why she did this, but there are unsubstantiated stories of a lost love with a sailor that never returned to Savannah.

After the cruise, we spent a considerable amount of time checking out all the old stores and candy shops along the riverfront and up on Bay Street. We did some wine tasting at a shop that sold wine from the Horse Creek Winery in Nashville, GA. I bought a bottle of strawberry wine called Red Jewell and Keri bought a bottle of blackberry wine called Blackjack. We had some brews at the Moon River Brewing Company on W. Bay Street. Very rustic atmosphere and attentive bartenders. Regrettably visited Paula Deen's restaurant and asked the question one more time. Kissed Paula Deen goodbye. More shopping in the City Market, a four-block area of restored warehouses and shop fronts adjacent to Ellis Square. Listened to some live entertainment while having a free beer on a rooftop bar. There is a story associated with the free beer, but I'll save it for another time. Walked through some of Savannah's famous squares taking pictures.

We ended the day back on River Street where it was packed with people enjoying the lights and nightlife. Ate at the Exchange Tavern. More shopping and picture taking. Bought a t-shirt at the Blue Parrot. Watched a trumpet player annoy a bride with the "Wedding March" song. Solo musicians playing for tips are common along the waterfront at night.

What I learned-There are two things you will see plenty of when you visit the shops and stores of Savannah, Paula Deen and "Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil", a movie filmed in Savannah and directed by Clint Eastwood. You can even take a tour called "A Walk Through Midnight". Sadly, there is also a "Paula Deen Tour". Savannah has been rated by Walking Magazine as "one of the 10 Best Walking Cities in America." A city of tree-lined streets, beautiful squares, and magnificent parks.

It was a fun day visiting the sister city of Charleston. Two very different and very similar cities of the South.

Charleston's Nighttime Fun Should Include a Trip To The Footlight Theatre

We all like to be entertained with a good scare once in awhile. Remember the fun times sitting in a semi-dark room on a stormy night or around a crackling campfire taking turns at telling scary stories and seeing who could come up with the most sinister plot. That was how Mary Shelley gave birth to her first novel now known as "Frankenstein".

Sorrel-Weed House

While vacationing on Lake Geneva, Switzerland, Mary and her friends amused themselves by reading German ghost stories, prompting a suggestion they each write their own supernatural tale. Mary's scary tale was conceived in a waking dream she had one night. She wrote a short story about her horrific dream and later expanded it into the famous novel. Needless to say, her story took the honor of being the scariest tale that infamous night.

Looking for inspiration for a winning scary novel? Savannah was dubbed by The American Institute of Parapsychology as "America's Most Haunted City". The Sorrel-Weed House at 6 W Harris Street at Madison Square was featured on Ghost Hunters and is one of the top ten creepiest places in America. Be sure to take the 10:30pm tour for the greatest affect, if you dare.

Charleston's darker side can most certainly fuel the imagination and inspiration for a winning frightful tale. Travel Channel designated Charleston "America's Most Haunted Places". Take an inside look at Charleston's haunted Old City Jail, enter the Provost Dungeon, or visit Poogan's Porch where Zoe makes her presence known. Walk the streets, bars, and cemeteries while the guides of Bulldog Tours amuse you with the tales and stories of the not so holy side of the Holy City.

Footlight Players Theatre

Take your search for nighttime fun and storytelling entertainment a step further and consider what the Footlight Theatre has to offer October 28, 29 30 and November 4, 5, 6 at 9pm. "The Weir" by Conor McPherson will be presented by the Footlight Players. "The Weir" takes place in a small tavern in rural Ireland where local men swap spook stories in an attempt to impress a young woman who recently moved into a nearby "haunted" house, but the tables get turned on them when she tells a tale of her own. Old-fashioned story telling guaranteed to send chills up your spine. Ticket price ranges $10-$15. Footlight Players Theatre is located at 20 Queen Street.-Vacation Rick Travel Charleston