Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts

Wednesday, May 28, 2014

Charleston To Sweden--An Extraordinary Hotel That Hangs With The Trees

The tree is by far the biggest, tallest and most prolific of the living things with whom we share this beautiful planet. They have been venerated by ancient cultures and protected by modern laws--Summerville, SC adopted the motto "Sacra Pinus Esto"--"The Pine is Sacred."

The lungs of the earth, trees pull carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and return oxygen. They fuel the fires that keep us warm on frigid days, they provide the products we use to shelter our families, and are the inspiration of many poems.

Right here in our beloved Lowcountry, Angel Oak on John's Island is reportedly the oldest living thing east of the Rockies. Coming in at 1,500 years, it is not the tallest or the oldest, but its branches spread out over the landscape some 89 feet with a trunk circumference of 25.5 feet. Unknown to many Lowcountry residents, in the middle of Runnymede Plantation on the Ashley stands an oak tree with a circumference of 29 feet. Simply called the Oak, it is about 1,000 years old.

The biggest tree in the world is a giant sequoia named after a Civil War leader, "General Sherman." Located in Sequoia National Park in Tulare County, CA, it has a girth of 102.6 feet at ground level. The world's tallest tree is a coast redwood located in Redwood National Park, California. It is named "Hyperion," after a person in Greek mythology, and stands no less than 379.7 feet tall.

The world's oldest non-clonal tree is a pine tree located in the White Mountains of Inyo County in eastern California. In 2014, it turned 4,845 years old. It is fittingly named after a Biblical figure of longevity, Methuselah. The world's oldest clonal tree is a mere 16 feet tall and believed to be 9,550 years ancient. It is a Norway Spruce located on the Fulufjället Mountain of Dalarna province in Sweden.


Once in awhile, I write about places to see and things to do at destinations other than Charleston and Sweden, the location of the aforementioned oldest tree, is home to an extraordinary amenity that leaps out of the box of conventionalism.


Sweden is a country with long, rugged coastlines, 95,700 lakes, deep forests, rolling hills, majestic mountains, hundreds of unspoiled islands, and summer houses. With a reputation for cold winters, the climate can be much milder than you might expect because of a warm Gulf Stream. The landscape is dotted with small villages and Harads is one of them--a village of 600 featuring a restaurant, shop and guest house. From there, it is just a five-minute stroll through the beautiful Swedish landscape to five treerooms with a fantastic view of the Lule River valley, miles of forest and the powerful river. It is aptly called the Tree Hotel and was inspired by the film "The Tree Lover" by Jonas Selberg Augustsen.


The Birds Nest
On arrival, you check in at Britta’s pensionat where breakfast, lunch and dinner are served Tree Hotel guests. A buffet breakfast is always included in the room price, as are all meals in the package deals. Britta’s pensionat has an authentic 1930-50’s setting and offers a restaurant, bar, sauna and relaxation area, TV, and internet. The treerooms do not have TV and internet. Focus is on nature.

The Mirrorcube
The UFO
The list of activities is long and include a guided tour of the hotel, walking tour of Harads, Tree Sauna, trekking the Nordic flora and fauna of Storklints, mountain biking, kayaking the historic Lule river, tour by horse, midnight riding under the Northern Lights, fishing the beautiful Bodträsk River, and riding a zipline.

Treeroom rates: from 4400 SEK=$677.44 US to 4600 SEK=$698.09 US for two or 3300=$500.80 US for one. Extra adult: 850 SEK=$128.31 US and extra child: 450 SEK=$67.93 US. Rates may have changed. The Dragonfly rates are 7200 SEK=$1086.86 US 2 to 4 persons--6800 SEK=$1026.48 US in the summer season July-August.

View from the Blue Cone
It is a long trip from Charleston to the beautiful land of Sweden. The Tree Hotel is a once in a lifetime experience of the extraordinary kind. It is a place where you can forget about the time constraints of everyday life, enjoy the serenity of unspoiled nature, and rejuvenate in a sophisticated yet familiar environment. A place where you can become one with the oldest of our planet's inhabitants.

Saturday, April 12, 2014

Seven Unforgettable And Unusual Charleston Lowcountry Sights Worth Experiencing

From the majestic surf-laden skeleton forest of Boneyard Beach on Cape Romain's Bulls Island to the shell-laden fallen timbers of sun soaked Botany Bay Beach on Edisto Island and from every iron gated, cobblestoned alley way and oak draped byway in-between, unforgettable estuaries and landmarks are a hallmark of Charleston's Lowcountry. Many of these unforgettable sights are natural wonders. Some of them are long standing, man-made constructions. And a few of them are audaciously imaginative fabrications that leave you amusingly scratching your head.

One strange and unusual spectacle that left you scratching your head was the sight of an old mattress hanging by four ropes from a large oak tree located on Edisto Island. At first glance, I thought it to be repulsive, but reflecting back on it I found the contrivance posing as a double-wide hammock to be amusingly uncanny, and so did many others. An ingenious invention of practicality and southern comfort, it was enterprising. So enterprising, the maker and owner of the swinging quilted pad, Frank Gadsden, charged drive-bys $10 to take pictures. The "Mattress Swing" no longer hangs from the old oak tree standing at the bend in the road on Highway 174. Time and unforeseen circumstances have vanquished it.

With that tidbit of Lowcountry trivia in mind, I have selected seven of the more unforgettable and unusual sights located around Charleston's Lowcountry for your consideration and amusement. Some of the them are associated with various notable restaurants and establishments, and others stand alone. You will want to make specific plans to visit some of them and a few of them you may unsuspectingly happen upon while traveling the highways and byways of the Lowcountry. Armed with the necessary background information, you will enjoy them all the more--"To be prepared is half the victory."

1) At the entrance of the Shem Creek Park boardwalk, you are greeted by Pete the Pelican; a 9-foot tall sculpture covered with marine debris collected from Charleston waterways during the 2011 Beach Sweep. The boardwalk extends 2,200 feet from the park's entrance on Coleman Blvd to near the mouth of Shem Creek. The $2.5 million park and boardwalk were built and inaugurated in 2011. It includes a 250 foot floating dock where visitors can tie their boats. Pete the Pelican has been there since April of 2012.



2) In the middle of a grassy marsh on Edisto Island where Botany Bay Road intersects Highway 174 stands a solitary, ragged tree covered not by the assumed green foliage one would expect for that species of topiary, but by pink inflatables and a ship's wheel--at least on the day I saw it. This peculiar sight is called the "Mystery Tree" by Edisto locals. Stories suggest nobody knows who started the tradition--thus the mystery. Throughout the year for generations, it’s been adorned with beach chairs, flip-flops, seasonal decorations and a host of other things by locals and vacationers alike. The original tree was sadly up-rooted by an unknown group of pranksters, but happily replaced with another to carry on the tradition--once again by an unknown party. One story insinuates it is a bottle tree.

3) This retired tractor can be seen on your approach to Freshfields Village, which sits at the crossroads of Kiawah, Seabrook and John's Island. Quaint and walkable, it is a perfect mix of shops, businesses and restaurants. Nostalgic murals, sidewalks integrated with oyster shells and lush landscaping are some of its features. It is also a venue for cultural events like outdoor concerts, art exhibits and festivals. The new Andell Inn opened in the spring of this year--named after the Andell family, who settled in the region in 1876 and once owned all of Seabrook Island. It has 100 rooms with rates beginning at $250 a night.

4) Pirates and Shem Creek go together like oyster festivals and Charleston. This knife wielding scallywag can be seen on the Tiki level of RB's Seafood Restaurant. The original restaurant, a 35-seat eatery located in an old fish shed next to Red's Ice House, was reduced to ashes and rubble by an accidental fire. Rebuilt, RB's now seats more than 300 guests and has been nominated "the number one waterfront restaurant" several times. On your visit, request seating on the Tiki level where table arrangements are a wooden swing with a grass-thatched top--very relaxing. Read the review.

5) Infamous Hurricane Hugo indelibly left its mark on the Lowcountry and in the psyche of its residents. Another Shem Creek restaurant established in 1994, this eatery was named after a shrimp troller victimized by the storm to commemorate the occasion. Its name is the Wreck of the Richard and Charlene or quite simply The Wreck. The vanquished troller was lifted from where it was moored and impaled onto the pilings of a nearby dock. The wreckage was eventually removed. Displayed on the restaurant's property is the wreckage of another boat called Great Aunt Margaret, shown in the photo. An interesting side point about the restaurant: You mark menu selections with a crayon instead of the waitress writing them on a pad. Read the review.

6) This compilation of metal pieces and parts has no apparent significance that I know of--it just simply is. I came across it driving on Bears Bluff Road to the Irvin House Vineyards on Wadmalaw Island. Irvin House is a 48-acre winery and vineyard. It is the only domestic winery in Charleston, South Carolina. Some of its other amenities are walking trails, a petting zoo, a garden, large pond, winery, gift shop and the Firefly Distillery--home of the world's first hand-crafted sweet tea flavored vodka. The Lowcountry Trolley features a tour of the vineyard called Island "Sip n See." When you take the tour and are heading down Bears Bluff Road, look out the windows on the right side. You will see this Lowcountry oddity featured in the photo. Be sure to say hello to the white Brahma bull that roams freely among the vines.

7) Another boat made famous by Hurricane Hugo is The Folly Boat. Carried off on the storm's surging waters, it came to rest on the edge of Folly Road. You will pass it on your way to Folly Beach--known for Charleston's only full-service oceanfront hotel; Tides Hotel, a famous pier; the Edwin S. Taylor Folly Beach Fishing Pier, and surfing area; the Washout. Amateur graffiti artists cover the boat with their inspirational creations with the permission of the city of Folly Beach. Not far from this landmark is the locally loved Bowen's Island Restaurant, made famous by a movie and oysters. Read the review.

Saturday, April 5, 2014

Summerville's Sister To The West--Aiken, South Carolina--Thoroughbred Horses And Beautiful Parkways

I have been a passionate disciple of the Lowcountry since my pilgrimage from Ohio to South Carolina nine years ago. During those years, I have traveled up and down the coastline from the Outer Banks to Amelia Island immersing myself in some of the oldest colonial history in the Americas and some of the prettiest estuarial bionomics on the east coast--I am hopelessly enchanted with the soft sand and salty waters of the barrier islands.

As a result, I have sparingly ventured into the interior of South Carolina. Only on one occasion, while traveling State Route 78 on my way to Atlanta via Augusta, do I vaguely recall the town of Aiken--having only passed through it briefly, until January of this year.

It was a brisk morning in Aiken. I hesitate to use the word cold to describe a South Carolina winter day, but it was chilly enough to freeze the ink in my pen, which made it difficult to jot down points of interest I would use for later reference. My scribblings began the day resembling Morse code--more dashes than dots, but improved as the day progressed due to the warming southern sun.

Up until this day, my knowledge of Aiken was based partly on information gleaned from articles I had read about the Southern Railway System originating in Charleston and partly from conversations with a friend who had been there--conversations that further heightened my longing to finally see the South Carolina town known for thoroughbred horses and beautiful broadways.

In fact, I was standing in the grassy middle of the horse districts thoroughbred racing track that nippy January morning by way of an invitation from Azalea Magazine to join them on this one day trip and write about it for the upcoming Spring issue. The resulting experience far exceeded my expectations. You can read the complete article on page 84 of the 2014 March issue entitled Roadtrip: "Where The Horse Reigns Supreme."

The article is accompanied by a beautifully arranged photo-spread taken from photographs by photographer Dottie Rizzo. For later viewing, to assist in jogging my memory of the days sights, I also took many photographs, which is the main reason for this article. I would like to share with you some of the photos taken from the day's collection showing the many fascinating and amusing points of interest that would have taken a thousand more words to describe--reminding me of the old adage, "a picture paints a thousand words."

Horse district thoroughbreds--the Darcy Stables owned by Sheikh Mohammed of Dubai

Gravestone of Blue Peter--a champion thoroughbred and sire of War Admiral

A fiery thoroughbred at the Legacy Stables

The story about an exercise rider nicknamed Pockets at the Thoroughbred Hall of Fame and Museum

A buggy washer used by the Iselins of Hopelands Gardens located in the ceiling of the Thoroughbred Hall of Fame

Hopelands Gardens--the original foundation of the main home turned into an elevated brick courtyard with fountains

Main lobby of the Willcox Inn decorated with curly pine paneling
 
Old phone booth in the Willcox Inn

MacKenzie "Mack" Miller's chair in the Thoroughbred Hall of Fame. He trained four champions.

Painted horse statue in the center of the downtown district; the painted horse statues are located throughout Aiken

Painted horse statue in front of the Thoroughbred Hall of Fame
 
11th Annual Aiken Horsepower Association's Spring Fling Show & Shine
Saturday, April 12, 9:00 am-4:00 pm
2441 Whiskey Road, Aiken, SC

Run United 2014
Apr 26, 8:00am-10:00am
Downtown Aiken
Aiken, SC

Aiken Strawberry Festival
May 10, 2014
Mead Hall School - Aiken, SC

Aiken Jazz Festival
Jun 20, 2014
Perry Park - Aiken, SC

Monday, June 10, 2013

Celebrate With Two Of Charleston's Best In June-Special Events At Circa 1886 And 82 Queen

Although, I have lived in the Charleston area for eight years now, I haven't as of yet cut beyond the crust of all the fine restaurants available throughout the city. They are numerous. One of the most highly anticipated culinary events in the Charleston area, Charleston's Restaurant Week, affords Lowcountry residents and visitors an excellent opportunity to sample the best at a discount. This is one event I look forward to year after year.

I generally pick two from the long list of participating restaurants offering prefixed menus consisting of three items for one set price at either $20, $30 or $40. The last time I chose High Cotton on E. Bay Street. You can read about the adventure here. I've had some great culinary experiences and some unexpected surprises in the form of staples, pun intended with a smile. The next installment is September 4-15.

You will have to wait a few months for Restaurant Week, but in the meantime, there are two opportunities for you to enjoy Charleston's finest with an added treat in this month of June. The first is a Blue Jeans and Craft Beer Dinner at Circa 1886 on Friday, June 14th and the second is part of 82 Queen's Summer Dinner Series, a Bourbon Dinner featuring Jim Beam on Friday, June 28th.

Circa 1886 is located on the grounds of Wentworth Mansion and was the original carriage house, and this is no surprise, built in 1886. It offers an elegant dining experience and it is unlikely you would see patrons wearing blue jeans, but for this event putting on your favorite pair of blue jeans is required. Join Chef Marc Collins for an informal fun food and craft beer night.

Festivities start with a reception on the patio from 6:30-7 p.m. followed by a 4-course dinner paired with newly released beers from Westbrook Brewery. The dinner is $50 per person, price excludes tax, gratuity and additional beverages. Reservations are required. Click on Blue Jeans and Craft Beer Dinner at Circa 1886 for more information. I personally have not been to Circa 1886 and it is on the top of my must-see list. It is located at 149 Wentworth Street.

82 Queen is located in the Historic French Quarter and its address, you guessed it, is 82 Queen Street. It has been serving southern hospitality for 30 years, but its address is 300 years old.

I have been to 82 Queen. The entrance is a long alley way that opens up into a beautiful outdoor courtyard. Inside are eleven different dining rooms spread throughout three buildings, each with its own name. The restaurant is famous for its she-crab soup.

The special event, Bourbon Dinner featuring Jim Beam, is part of the restaurant's Summer Dinner Series. Chef Steven Lusby has created a menu that not only compliments their unique Bourbons such as Basil Hayden's and Knob Creek, but infuses their special elixirs into the food. It's the mating of an old all-American tradition with the famous Lowcountry cuisine. Tickets are $79 in advance, or $99 the day of the dinner. Prices excludes tax and gratuity.



Want to have some fun and an opportunity to win something? Penelope the Pineapple has returned to Wentworth Mansion starting Monday, June 10th with a full itinerary of warm weather adventures through Charleston. You can follow her documented travels on Charming Inns of Charleston's blog and their Facebook.

Each week on Monday, you’ll have the opportunity to guess where she is, who she’s hanging out with and what she’s up to. You will have until Wednesday of each week to guess correctly and be entered in a drawing.

The prize is an overnight package for two at the Kings Courtyard Inn and a $30 gift certificate to Charleston’s brand new breakfast and lunch restaurant Kitchen 208. Contest ends Wednesday, July 3rd. Full details are on Charming Inns of Charleston.

Monday, November 5, 2012

An Entertaining Night Of Picture Taking In Historic Summerville-Celebrating New Friends

It was Friday. The sun had slipped beyond the horizon hours ago. A quick glance to my watch revealed it to be about the hour of 10 o'clock. The task of illumination was now the responsibility of the assorted street lights and sidewalk lamps. The live oaks on Hutchinson Square were tipping their branches ever so slightly to the gentle nighttime breeze. A gesture denoting mutual respect, perhaps. Under the gnarled branches of the old tree's protective canopy, in among their ghostly shadows, smiling scarecrows waved at the few passing cars.

Most of the businesses were locked and silent, except for the usual late night gathering spots. I was out this late hour taking pictures of the marquis and signs of the various establishments in and around the historic, old Square, the quiet sentinels that never sleep.

Accent on Wine was one of those nighttime spots still serving up the aromatic drink and loquacious fun to the few gathered around its tables and bar. I entered its doors to take some discreetly chosen photos of its interior. I was standing in front of the bar readying my camera to take a picture of the glass etching mounted among the shelves when I heard someone ask me if I would like to be in the photo, a considerate offer from a pretty young woman sitting on the right side of the bar. She had shoulder length, blond hair and was dressed very smartly. A young gentleman was with her. She was drinking wine, he a beer.

The question was the opening sentence to an enjoyable interchange. I introduced myself, told her I was a blogger. She asked the usual question, "What do you blog about?" I handed her my card and gave a quick summary. She informed me of her being new to the Summerville area and asked where in town she could find the best places to eat. She made it very clear, "I am not interested in chain restaurants. I want to experience something different."

I rattled off some of my favorite Summerville dining establishments such as Sweetwater Cafe, Perfectly Frank's, Matt's Burgers, Oscars, and a few others. At this point, I couldn't leave out mentioning the best place to get coffee, Coastal Coffee Roasters. Lizzy  said she was looking for a good coffee place. But I couldn't leave it simply with coffee because CCR is much more. It has become one of my favorite places for experiencing hometown talent and entertainment with its Thursday mike night and Acoustic Series. Craft beers, wine, and if you are hungry, there are plenty of delicacies offered to satisfy your craving.

Charleston soon entered the conversation, rooftop bars to be exact. It was then I learned they were new to Summerville, but not new to Charleston. The two of them previously lived on John's Island. Justin recently changed work locations and Summerville was the compromise between his drive to Orangeburg and hers to Trident Tech. I asked if she had ever been to the new restaurant on King Street called Stars, since rooftop bars was the topic. Stars Restaurant has a rooftop bar with a 360 degree view of Charleston.

I then said, "By the way, most people simply know me as Vacation Rick." It was then they revealed their names to me, Lizzy and Justin. Sports became the subject. They were a house divided. Lizzy was a Gamecock fan and Justin was a Tigers fan. I on the other hand was neither, since I was an Ohio transplant and a follower of professional football more so than college. Now, all hell broke loose and we ran the gamut of subjects from snow to cream of wheat.

Then, the conversation took a southern turn, transitioning from cream of wheat to grits, two very sticky substances. Justin asked me if I had ever been to the World Grits Festival in St. George. "No, haven't had the pleasure," I said. Lizzy casually captured the topic to describe in detail the rolling-in-the-grits contest and I have to say, it sounds like a funny event. They both agreed, "The best place to get grits is at the Hominy Grill in Charleston. But when you do go, take someone with you who is experienced at eating grits because you will need to know how much salt and sugar to add or you will ruin your whole experience." I must keep that in mind.

"This is what Accent on Wine is all about," I inserted. "A place to relax, sip on a glass of wine, and make new acquaintances." We shook hands and parted ways, for now. I left and resumed taking pictures along S. Main. Lizzy reminded me of someone I had seen before and it finally occurred to me who that was. It was the actress Ali Larter. I hope to see Lizzy and Justin again, maybe at the next Third Thursday on November 15th, a once a month Summerville event the two of them have not yet participated in. I hope to see you there also. I hear there is going to be a party over at Art and Soul starting 8:00 pm. Mr. Fezziwig is the host, and he knows how to have a good time.

Molly Durnin will perform at Coastal Coffee Roasters Friday, November 9th at 7-9 pm. Molly is from New York. She is an indie musician. Singer/songwriter with a rhythmic guitar groove and tuneful melodic sense that draws from the heart of Americana, folk and blues traditions.

For more information on what's happening in Summerville go to Summerville DREAM, a member of South Carolina Main Street and the National Main Street programs.

Tuesday, October 23, 2012

Sunday's Cornhole Tournament Organized By AZALEA Magazine In Summerville Was Great Competitive Fun For All

While visiting my son back in Ohio some considerable years ago, he asked me if I would be interested in playing a new game he made. We went out to his backyard where two rectangular boards with a hole near the top was setup on his lawn. Six brightly colored bags were laying on one of the boards. I asked, "What do you call this game?" "Cornhole," he informed me. He proceeded to explain the rules and the scoring.

I picked up one of the bags and for want of a better word, mushy came to mind. I tossed it toward the opposite board. I would like to say it slid into the hole, but truth be told, it slid off. It was my first exposure to this engaging pastime that has found its way into just about every tavern and bar since. Quite interestingly, it is believed cornhole's uncertain beginnings were in Ohio, Cincinnati to be exact, but I am positive some ancient group of people played something similar to cornhole somewhere in this big world. We just haven't dug around in the right pile of dirt yet.

Recently, I met a talented young woman while attending a tech meeting in Charleston. She introduced herself as the director of marketing and art management for Art Spaces. Her name is B. Vordai. In the course of our conversation, Vordai also revealed she is a certified cornhole manufacturer. I didn't even know there was such a certification. But with everybody and their brother making the game these days, certain specifications must be maintained to keep its integrity in tact, like an official NFL football or professional major league hardball. By the way, footballs are often called pigskins, but an official football is made of genuine leather. Regulation cornhole bags are made of duck cloth and filled with corn.

While my son's cornhole set was finished with a high gloss polyurethane, many of the boards you see today are painted, and not just plainly painted. Many are covered with logos of their favorite sports teams, businesses, or just about anything the imagination can conjure up.

An obvious bi-product of all these games is the tournament, which is the main reason for this post. I just participated in a tournament sponsored by AZALEA Magazine of Summerville. The location where all this bag throwing took place was Short central in front of O'Lacy's Pub. The top prize was a trophy and a cornhole set with trophies also going to second and third place finishers. Keri Whitaker was my team partner and our team name was White Gables.


The teams were arranged into brackets and the winner of each bracket would move on to the next. Fairly simple arrangement. The first round of games would be decided by a best of three. After that, it would be single eliminations until the championship, which would be decided by a best of three.

When Keri and I first arrived on scene, we decided a few warm up tosses were warranted. So, with our first beer in hand, we cow pied a few, after which I checked out the competition. There were many different styles of tossing. There was the high toss, the flat toss, the flat-spin toss, and the backhand toss. There was even one person who pinched the cloth between two fingers and tossed it. The competition was going to be stiff.

The start time finally arrived. The first game proceeded slowly. At the beginning, there were many dirt bags tossed by both teams and each covered point for point. We cornholed a few and jumped out into a considerable lead once we hit 10, and then experienced a slump upon reaching 17. It was now 17-12. The opposing team picked away at our lead and the game was tied up at 20-20. It was anybodies game now. The tension was high. It came down to me. My first toss slid off and my opponent aced. I aced the second and my opponent missed. I cornholed the third, while he aced his third. I aced the fourth, so now the pressure was on my opponent. He needed a cornhole to stay alive, which he did not. First game over.

In the second game, we cruised into a big lead quickly, 8-0. Once again we cooled off and they picked away at our lead until it was 16-12. Keri then scored a Leprechaun, four bags on the board. It was 20-12. Only one point was now needed, which I failed to get on my next four tosses. Keri likewise missed on her next four tosses, but on my next round of tosses I got an ace and a slider. We took the first round.

The second round was going to be tougher. It was a one game elimination, so there was no room for error. We were playing against the Bama Buckeyes, fellow former Ohioans. We scored three points and they scored four. From there it was pretty much over for us. Every time we would ace, they would ace twice. Every time we would cornhole, they would cover with two. We couldn't get a single point. It was now 20-3, their favor. Our competition then proceeded to cornhole a shot. Keri needed to cover to stay in the competition. Her next shot would have been a good instant replay. She got nothing but hole. The elation was very short lived because our opponent cornholed his next shot. No trophy for us. None-the-less, it was fun Sunday afternoon in Summerville once again.

All thanks to AZALEA Magazine for organizing the event and its sponsors. AZALEA Magazine's beautifully arranged pictorials and commentaries are dedicated to celebrating  the best of Summerville through its novel look at the region's history, culture, and residents. Throughout its pages you get a close-up, intimate look into the lives of its unique personalities-their skills, their homes,  and their impact on the charisma of the Lowcountry. Pick one up and take a look. After perusing its pages, you will have a greater appreciation for the reasons people keep coming back to the number one destination in the world.

Friday, October 12, 2012

The Mysterious Side Of Charleston-Uncommon Things You Don't See Everyday

Dock Street Theater
Charleston is charming, but also mysterious. It is renowned for its old homes and church graveyards, many with bizarre tales of ghostly encounters and things that go bump in the night. The Battery Carriage House Inn has its “gentleman ghost” and the headless torso and Poogan's Porch's resident apparition is an old lady by the name of Zoe St Amand. Junius Brutus Booth, father of John Wilkes Booth, is said to appear at the Dock Street Theater and Lavinia Fisher, famous for saying, “If you have a message you want to send to hell, give it to me – I’ll carry it,” haunts the Old City Jail. Many other such tales abound throughout Charleston and its streets. Even its barrier islands tell of pirate ghosts and confederate soldiers.

I have not personally experienced any of these types of encounters, but I have seen things that border on the peculiar. While traveling in and around Charleston you could see some strange and unusual things. Not saying that Charleston is the only place in this big country you could be confronted with the bizarre and unusual, other places have their own unique blend of quaint happenings. In the Lowcountry, the farther off the beaten track you go, the more bizarre some things may get. Some of them make perfect sense and others make no sense at all. Although, to the originator it probably appears very practical.

The first is the blue bottle tree. While I wouldn't categorize this as being bizarre, it is unusual. You see them all over the Lowcountry, on peoples front yards, gardens, porches and even one at the corner of a busy Summerville intersection called Five Points. To the originators, slaves from the Congo, the blue bottle tree was more than a lawn ornament and the idea behind its creation made perfect sense to them. Its purpose was to protect the home from evil spirits. The blue bottle tree was placed outside, near the home. The threatening evil spirits are drawn to the sparkling,blue bottles, cobalt blue to be more exact. Once inside the bottle they can't get out. The sun rises in the morning and burns them up, as one version tells it. Another version relates the bottles being corked and thrown into a river to carry the evil spirits away. Anyway you bottle it, the home was thus protected.

Both strange and unusual are appropriate adjectives for the next entry. I first happened upon this soon to become an iconic piece of Edisto Island history some years ago while driving the roads less traveled, at least by me. It was an old mattress hanging by four ropes from a large oak tree. Admittedly, at first I thought the peculiar sight to be rather repulsive. A mattress left outdoors, subject to the heat and humidity of the Lowcountry summer, would likely become a smelly, heap of decaying fibers over time. But then, as I reflected back over the uncommon spectacle, I found it to be amusingly uncanny, and so did many others who happened upon this contrivance posing as a double-wide hammock. It was the famed "Mattress Swing" and the place at which it hung was known to some of Edisto's oldest islanders as "Mattress Point." It was an ingenious invention of practicality and southern comfort. It was audacious. So audacious, the maker and owner of the swinging quilted pad, Frank Gadsden, charged drive-bys $10 to take pictures. The "Mattress Swing" no longer hangs from the old oak tree standing at the bend in the road on SC-174. Time and unforeseen circumstances have vanquished it.

White Gables, a quaint southern community development off of Central Ave in Summerville, is patterned after the colorful row houses of Charleston. One delivery man referred to it as the crayon box houses. The main entrance drive is flanked on each side by ponds, and once you past the first stop sign, lined with live oak trees. A clubhouse straight ahead and beyond a green area with benches and gazebos, stands as a center piece and hub of activity. It is a close knit community where the uncommon is as foreign as a Steeler jersey in the Dawg Pound of Cleveland Stadium. Until one day, a friend happened upon a freakish sight sitting on the lawn of a resident and shared it with me. A mechanical conjoinment of two dissimilar objects reminiscent of the Transformers. Someone finally discovered a way to mix work and play with this amalgamation of steel and wheels. It was a bike and a grass mower fused into one.

My final entry is unusual, but not bizarre. I happened upon it while visiting one of my favorite hangouts in Summerville, the Coastal Coffee Roasters, which is a contradiction for me because I don't partake of the dark, aromatic brew. While freshly roasted coffee from organically grown beans is Coastal Coffee Roasters niche, it is much more. Spending time there is like hanging out at a neighbor's garage for a community party complete with beverages and live entertainment, and if you are so inclined you can bring your own acoustic guitar to pick a few of your own favorites. CCR calls it open mic night.

It was on such a night I saw this unusual object sitting on CCR's counter. At first glance, from a distance, it looked like an oil lamp, but when the burner was put underneath, it eerily resembled a chemistry experiment. "What is that," I inquired. Brad answered, "A Japanese coffee siphon brewer." To satisfy my insatiable curiosity, I demanded an explanation, which involved another science, the laws of physics. So, a demonstration was needed, because seeing is believing, or something like that. Brad lit the burner and we watched. The whole process defies the laws of gravity and the end result is a pure cup of brewed coffee that even I had to try.

See you around the Lowcountry and beautiful Charleston.

Monday, October 8, 2012

A One Day Visit To Enchanting Savannah, GA-Charleston's Sister City


It was a beautiful southern morning for a one day trip to Charleston's sister city to the south, Savannah. We headed up Central Ave to 17A going toward Walterboro, a sleepy old town, where we would pick up I-95. By the way, if you are a person who likes antiques and collectibles, Walterboro's old Washington Street is lined with shops filled with these items. At the present, they are renovating the sidewalks and road, but when it becomes finished, it will be a centerpiece for residents and visitors alike. But I am getting ahead of a very important controversy and challenge that arose while on our way to Walterboro.

While chatting about Savannah my traveling partner, who has never been there, brought up the name Paula Deen. She said, "Paula Deen is a big name in Savannah." Even though I tried to look like I knew what she was talking about, she caught the underlying puzzled look in my eyes and followed up with the remark, "You don't know who Paula Deen is, do you." She lives for these moments. She continued, "She has a cooking show and a restaurant in Savannah." I innocently responded, "Well, I'm drawing a blank on the name right now, but I am sure I have seen her before." I could see she was basking in the moment.

So, to account for my apparent lack of knowledge on the matter, I quickly formulated a plan for redemption and presented a challenge. I contested, "When we get to Savannah, I bet you the first man I stop on the street and ask if he knows who Paula Deen is he will draw a blank just like me." "I'll bet you they will know who Paula Dean is," she reaffirmed. The challenge was on.

A hour and ten minutes later we crossed the Savannah River into Georgia and in a few moments were making our way to the heavily touristed Bay Street. Our first objective-finding a parking spot. It was a Saturday, so locating a parking spot could have been difficult, but we were fortunate and found one quickly. Our first stop was the ticket office for the River Queen located on the historic and very popular River Street near the Hyatt. We bought two tickets totaling $85.90 for the Saturday Luncheon Cruise. Boarding would begin at 11:30am. Since it was 11:00am, we had time to walk around and do what Keri does best, shop. There were already plenty of tourists milling around on the street and in the stores.


We boarded the old riverboat and selected our table on the restaurant deck. It was elegantly decorated with fancy dressed waiters. We noticed the drinks being brought to an older couple seated next to us and I inquired about their selection. Her drink caught my curiosity. Conversation continued from that point. The couple was on a three month vacation traveling up the East Coast.

I decided it was now time to put my challenge to the test. I asked the older gentleman if he had ever heard of Paula Dean. I was feeling pretty confident I had this one in the bag seeing he was an older man from Iowa. He smiled, but his wife answered, "Funny you should ask. We have plans of going to her restaurant called The Lady and Sons for dinner." I looked at Keri, now grinning from ear to ear. She toasted her victory with the declaration, "See. I was right." I quickly sought a recovery. The waiter had just then arrived with our drinks. I asked him, "Do you know Paula Deen?" Wrong person to ask. So, I figured it was time to put the controversy to rest and accept the defeat.


It was time to eat. The buffet had a selection of honey glazed barbecue pork loin, Southern fried chicken, Chef's special, creamy squash casserole, fresh fruit, assorted salads and deserts. The Captain related the history of Savannah and the riverfront as we cruised up and down. The food was excellent and the warm sun on the upper deck was great. Most of the scenery was uninteresting, consisting mainly of old docks and rusted warehouses, except for the section along Old River Street, which was more picturesque. You can take a picture of The Waving Girl Statue as the boat passes by. It honors the bittersweet life of Florence Martus, Savannah's legendary "waving girl." She had a tradition of waving at all the ships that passed by her cottage with a handkerchief by day and a lantern by night. She did it for 44 yrs. It remains a mystery as to why she did this, but there are unsubstantiated stories of a lost love with a sailor that never returned to Savannah.


After the cruise, we spent a considerable amount of time checking out all the old stores and candy shops along the riverfront and up on Bay Street. We did some wine tasting at a shop that sold wine from the Horse Creek Winery in Nashville, GA. I bought a bottle of strawberry wine called Red Jewell and Keri bought a bottle of blackberry wine called Blackjack. We had some brews at the Moon River Brewing Company on W. Bay Street. Very rustic atmosphere and attentive bartenders. Regrettably visited Paula Deen's restaurant and asked the question one more time. Kissed Paula Deen goodbye. More shopping in the City Market, a four-block area of restored warehouses and shop fronts adjacent to Ellis Square. Listened to some live entertainment while having a free beer on a rooftop bar. There is a story associated with the free beer, but I'll save it for another time. Walked through some of Savannah's famous squares taking pictures.



We ended the day back on River Street where it was packed with people enjoying the lights and nightlife. Ate at the Exchange Tavern. More shopping and picture taking. Bought a t-shirt at the Blue Parrot. Watched a trumpet player annoy a bride with the "Wedding March" song. Solo musicians playing for tips are common along the waterfront at night.



What I learned-There are two things you will see plenty of when you visit the shops and stores of Savannah, Paula Deen and "Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil", a movie filmed in Savannah and directed by Clint Eastwood. You can even take a tour called "A Walk Through Midnight". Sadly, there is also a "Paula Deen Tour". Savannah has been rated by Walking Magazine as "one of the 10 Best Walking Cities in America." A city of tree-lined streets, beautiful squares, and magnificent parks.

It was a fun day visiting the sister city of Charleston. Two very different and very similar cities of the South.